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I did this and it did shorten the throws a little. 3rd - 4th is 1cm shorter. Also the neutral position (and all subsequent gear positions) are moved forward about 3cm. The throws feel a little more solid and there is less play in each gear.

I would like to find out more about the Steeda shifter. Do the acually lower the pivot inside the tunnel? That is the only way I can see to truly shorten the throw at the knob. Could someone that has one please let me know? Thanks.

Dan
 

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yes, the steeda short throw lowers the connection point, so much so that you hoave to reroute the wire leading from the airbag control module a little bit. It also has a shorter overall shaft. Steeda Tri Ax/f... very very happy with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The earlier cars and SVTs have different shifter setups than the later ones. Looks like it would be easy to move the pivot point on the early ones.....


Maybe not so with the later ones.... They look like totally different beasts.


It would be really neat to see a later style Steeda next to a later OEM for a true comparison. I do know the Steeda in a buddy's later car feels real nice and is about and inch or so shorter than stock.
 

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The later one lets you adjust the upper cables, which is your throw.
Look at the How To and you see that the top cable can be moved on the later ones but no adjust on earlier ones.
 

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The top cable can be adjusted, yes, however it can only go so high before it hits the front of the shift surround. Bringing the cable up to its highest possible point shortens the throw by about 1cm. The only way to further shorten this is by moving the pivot down in the center console.

It would be really nice to see the steeda and stock side by side and perhaps measured.. Anyone wanna do it??

Also, from the pic above it looks like the Steeda only comes with the top half of the base (part that holds the pivot (the ball) down. If this is the case then it is not possible that the pivot point is changed at all, only the cables moved higher on the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, Dan. That was my point exactly. It looks like with the shifter redesign on the later cars that there is really no room to move the actual pivot point of the main shaft. By raising the ball joint up the rod (which obviously Steeda did too) you do ultimately change the fulcrum as it applies to the cable actuation, perhaps not to the same degree as is possible with the earlier design. When I moved the lockout assembly up as high as I could I got about an inch less throw distance not just 1 cm. Of course I had a few beers while messing with it so my measure could be skewed. I am planning on putting a Bullitt Mustang knob (a nice billet piece with the Ford shift pattern embossed) on so I think I will be shortening the mainshaft about an inch or so and ditching the lockout stuff completely. I think (from what I've seen) that that will be basically the same setup as the Steeda.
 

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My plan is similar, remove that lockout plastic crap and chop the shaft down a little. I'm gonna see how much a new stock shifter costs first in case I F*** it up.

Dan

p.s. - I thought the throw was much shorter at first, then I noticed that as you move the ball joint up, the shifter moves foward significantly, so now 4th is ~ where neutral used to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dan81 said:
I thought the throw was much shorter at first, then I noticed that as you move the ball joint up, the shifter moves foward significantly, so now 4th is ~ where neutral used to be.
I tried to take that into account when I measured. I used a meter stick holding it onto the arm rest and setting the (zero) end to the edge of the silver insert on the knob when in 3rd. Then I pulled it into 4th without moving the meter stick and getting a measure of about 5.25 inches. After this I raised the whole assembly up and re-zeroed and remeasured. I swore I got about 4.125 inches for the modified throw. I could check again but I kinda buggered the phillips head due to a worn out screwdriver so I don't want to mess with it any more than needed.

This knob should look and feel great (except in the dregs of winter)
 

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That would look really nice, especially if it matches that silvery radio surround area. Maybe you can also get a brushed aluminum shifter surround.
 

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hey centennial, about the shift knob.. (off subject)
i had a metal shift knob and found that getting a pair of baseball-batting gloves not only helps with the cold, it also helps your grip on the steering wheel and shifter (+ they make pretty sweet looking driving gloves =D ).. just a random suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's my final result after chopping about 1 1/2 inches off the top. 3 1/4 inch throws. Cost: about $40.00 total for the knob, a die to rethread the shaft and new hacksaw blades.
 
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