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Shiny new Typhoon arrived today, took me about 30 minutes to install. Looks very much like the same one Steeda has just released, except the MAF is rotated 90 degrees. Very solid... if you tug on the pipe it doesn't wiggle around, it will shake the throttle body and the whole intake along with it. Good sound too under WOT, compliments the exhaust.

Initial "butt-dyno" says it improved throttle response a bit, less hesitation... just "feels" better. Noticeable acceleration increase in 1st and 2nd gear... above that just not enough to notice. Overall... [thumb] [thumb]

Here's a pic of the finished install


The clamps and crankcase vent


Intake tube is retained. While driving, cool air flows into the "pocket" created by the battery on one side, car's sheetmetal on bottom and another side, K&N heat-shield on the other two sides. At least that was my take on it...


This is interesting... note the oil that is beginning to coat the bottom of the OEM box... car has 6000 miles and the only track it has ever seen is the Interstate. After seeing this, I don't think any particular intake causes this, looks more like a characteristic of the engine to me.


Thanks for watching! [:D]
 

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AKA Toyotech
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spinning a engine at 7000 rpm up to decent speeds will do that
 

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looks pretty good. Thanks for the pics, too. I was trying to figure out which intake to get and I wanted something that would leave me with the option to swap out the MAF later for a larger one, just in case. I have my answer[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well now that I've driven with it a day, I've noticed a few things worth mentioning.

The engine flare is more pronounced now, drops revs even more slowly, and it won't settle down to idle unless I come to a complete stop. I would assume this would happen with any free-flowing intake. Had the battery loose, so it may take a few more days for it to "learn" the new intake. Whether this will change its rpm habits... I can't say. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

The plus side to that is that the car hasn't cut off on me from a too-low rpm dip like it tends to do when coming to a stop... [confused]

One other thing... it seems their method of cooler air intake via the heat shield and the use of the SVT snorkel as some sort of vent works rather well. Went home for lunch, I popped the hood to make sure nothing was working loose, and the tube itself was cold to the touch... all the way down to the sleeve clamping it to the TB. The plastic, hoses, and sheet metal around it were all fairly warm, but the tube was cold like it hadn't been ran all day. Sure it's January, but where I live... the winters are rather mild. I was riding with my window down this afternoon.
 

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Rsdnt-Evle said:
Sure it's January, but where I live... the winters are rather mild. I was riding with my window down this afternoon.
Rub it in why don't you? I think the high here on Saturday is like 0F or something...ugh.

Thanks for the review, keep us posted.
 

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Rsdnt-Evle
Nice post, and very nice intake, what does engine flare mean?? and is he correct when he sugests that other intakes do this too? the part about the idle not comming down as fast? thanks.
 

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This is a little OT, but Rsdnt-Evle I just noticed something looking at that picture. The cables leading to your throttle are WAY shorter than the ones on my car. They come under the intake tube, make a quick loop and come around. Mine come under the intake, go all the way up to the radiator core support and then loop back over the top of the engine. Did I miss something? Was there some kind of TSB on this or did they change something for the newer SVT's?

Anyway, nice intake install. I'm putting that on my short list of things to do when I get some money. [thumb]

P.S. in the second pic you can see that your wiring harness fastener popped out of it's mounting hole. [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Engine flare is the very slow return to idle, even can jump up about 500 rpm or so when you take your foot off the throttle. Now that it has been on there about a week, the computer has gotten used to it, and it doesn't do that anymore. Well, no more than normal... [;)]

SVT4ME, no TSB that I know of, they looked like that when I got it. Must be changed on the '03 I guess.

I must be missing something, I don't see a fastener popped out... where exactly? [unsure]
 

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so your car has gotten used to it and is perfect now. did u notice any power difference? how loud is the intake? would u recomend it? thanks for the help i cant decide which intake to get i want the aem cold air but too many water horror stories? what do u think?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
stangman50 said:
so your car has gotten used to it and is perfect now. did u notice any power difference? how loud is the intake? would u recomend it? thanks for the help i cant decide which intake to get i want the aem cold air but too many water horror stories? what do u think?
I pretty much summed all that up in my 1st post up there. It's not loud at all, just kind of "mixes" with the exhaust sound. Personally, I wouldn't put my air filter down by the road if someone paid me to.

Thanks SVT4ME, I'll go fix that right now. [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it has been on a week now, I loosened the clamp and pulled the tube out of the sleeve to check for any sign of oil. Dry as a bone in there. Not a single drop, light film, nothing inside the tube.

Work with me here. The CAI's have much more pipe for the vehicle to breath through, as much if not more than the OEM plumbing. Would it stand to reason that with that long of a tube, at high RPM there would be at least a little bit of negative pressure near the TB and crankcase vent? The vent already has some suction applied to it from air rushing past, pulling the gases from inside the engine into the intake to be burned. A slight vacuum condition on that end of the intake would apply more vacuum to the vent, perhaps enough to suck oil into it.

This could also be compounded by a dirty air filter, as CAI filters tend to get much more dirty because of their location. The OEM filter doesn't breathe nearly as free as good aftermarket ones, which would amout to the same condition, hence the oil in the bottom of my OEM airbox.

I'm just guessing here, ideas are welcome. I'm just one of those people who need an answer for everything... [:D]
 

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Interesting theory, but I'm gonna say no. Vacuum is vacuum (which is what is experienced in every N/A intake system). The extra length and bends add to friction losses (overall pressure losses), but honestly, I doubt they are anything serious. If driven hard enough, you will see oil in the stock airbox as I'm sure you know.
 
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