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HI, I am letting everyone know that i have some spc camber bolts for rear that are adjustable. A few weeks ago i had one snap on me luckly in a parking lot.

I dont think these are strong enough for taking corners at high speeds and that may have contributed to the failure of the bolt. But be that as it may, they are a smaller diameter than the stock bolts and I wouldnt recommend them for track or hard driving... Just so you guys know..... The wheel was tucked in my wheelwell severely..
 

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Interesting that maybe the reason why they weld thm at the factory. That aggtrivated the crap out of me when I changed mine over. I hope that dont happen good luck with the repairs.




HI, I am letting everyone know that i have some spc camber bolts for rear that are adjustable. A few weeks ago i had one snap on me luckly in a parking lot.

I dont think these are strong enough for taking corners at high speeds and that may have contributed to the failure of the bolt. But be that as it may, they are a smaller diameter than the stock bolts and I wouldnt recommend them for track or hard driving... Just so you guys know..... The wheel was tucked in my wheelwell severely..
 

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Ive notice when i first put mine in my rear looked to be tracking pretty flat say close to 0 camber but now they seem to have fallen back in at the top a little. My bushings are probobly starting to go soft now.
 

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The problem may be over torquing the bolts.

The stock bolt spec was 89 ftlbs (M12 bolts)

I looked up the max torque spec for the actual size of the bolts (M10 - 12.9) is about 57 ftlbs, so I only torqued mine to 55........
 

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Interesting that maybe the reason why they weld thm at the factory. That aggtrivated the crap out of me when I changed mine over. I hope that dont happen good luck with the repairs.
Actually, the nuts are welded to make assembly quicker. The line worker doesn't have to hold a wrench on the back side when putting the suspension together. If you are going to use the camber bolts, torque them to the spec for the diameter, not the OE spec.
 

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The problem may be over torquing the bolts.

The stock bolt spec was 89 ftlbs (M12 bolts)

I looked up the max torque spec for the actual size of the bolts (M10 - 12.9) is about 57 ftlbs, so I only torqued mine to 55........


Bingo!!!!! Too many people get crazy and turn into gorillas when then get that ratchet or wrench in their hands. I once read something that was pretty funny at the time but there may be some truth in it....."When in doubt let a girl tighten it" (no offense ladies!!!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah they were torqued to the specs of the bolts.... They were on for 2 years with no problems til then....
 

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"When in doubt let a girl tighten it" (no offense ladies!!!!)
When it comes to suspension bolts and things that hold the wheel on im not letting a girl tighten those bolts. eef that. [ohcrap]

She can screw the speakers in, or somthing like the FSWerks engine cover.


75-80 mils an hour down the highway i dont want to even question how tight lug nuts or suspension bolts are!
 

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When it comes to suspension bolts and things that hold the wheel on im not letting a girl tighten those bolts. eef that. [ohcrap]

She can screw the speakers in, or somthing like the FSWerks engine cover.


75-80 mils an hour down the highway i dont want to even question how tight lug nuts or suspension bolts are!
My comment was meant to be taken the opposite way. When you "don't" want something "over-torqued".......let a girl do it. The discussion was about applying too much torque.
 

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Rust or corrosion? Do u live where it snows?
 

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Installed the bolts at work on a customers' bone stock '09 SE with 15k miles that had -1.9* camber on the left rear. Right rear was at -1.4. Easily got them both evened out at -1.2*. You can clearly see the bolt is thinner than the stock, so why would you torque it to the same spec? 50-55ft./lbs is more than enough.
 
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