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Discussion Starter #1
so next week, i get my JRSC with BBK and Dyno Tune via SCT.[wrenchin] [woot]
i think a generally thread is better, than thousands of it...[sing]

so my first question ist, if i need a oil cooler for long "high rpm driving" on the german "autobahn" ? [driving] or is the original recuperator effective enough ?

and did i need other spark plugs ?
 

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something that doesn't hit high intake temps. the JRSC at high rpm has high intake temps which can cause a piston to melt!!
 

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what does that mean?
It means the jrsc in stock form has SUPER high intake air temps using upper RPM for extended times then add the BBK and the intake temps go through the roof , if the timing retard for intake temp isnt adjusted properly (most tuners dont even know it is there ) then you could pull so much timing that it goes to a - number and fry the engine

The jrsc and pw are the worth pos out there for high intake temps under hard long running conditions

Light to light , playing on the street , showing off to your buddys , to say you have FI is the only thing there good for , if you want something that is safe for high RPM running you should of at least got a Pro-Charger

The jrsc and pw are toys for egos nothing more

Tom
 

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The jrsc and pw are toys for egos nothing more

Tom
Seriously? get off your high horse, it's so old to hear your negative posts. Seems like you're the one with the ego problem here. You gave some good info in the first part of your post then go off on a personal opinionated rant.
 
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It means the jrsc in stock form has SUPER high intake air temps using upper RPM for extended times then add the BBK and the intake temps go through the roof , if the timing retard for intake temp isnt adjusted properly (most tuners dont even know it is there ) then you could pull so much timing that it goes to a - number and fry the engine

The jrsc and pw are the worth pos out there for high intake temps under hard long running conditions

Light to light , playing on the street , showing off to your buddys , to say you have FI is the only thing there good for , if you want something that is safe for high RPM running you should of at least got a Pro-Charger

The jrsc and pw are toys for egos nothing more

Tom
I would say leave this guy alone. He's excited about his new "toy." I for SURE didn't get my JRSC for bragging rights. I don't even tell people I put it in usually. For what I wanted it for 3 or 4 years ago, it gave me exactly what I wanted; a little bit more "safe" horsepower. No modifications to the tranny necessary. I'm still on the original clutch and it isn't slipping.

To OP: You should just use the stock tune from Ford Racing for that. My tune has been perfectly fine running in my car. I've had ZERO problems with it and have put about 60,000 miles on it. Now if you can't send your computer in to get reflashed, then I'd find a good tuner who isn't going to flame your choice of FI. Oh yeah and go with copper spark plugs. You will have to replace them more often, but better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i have the original software from Ford Racing for BBK on my pcm. But i flashed it via SCT. The software is from SCT.

in this video you can see, the --> air/fuel ration, boost, exhaust temp., oil-temp.
with the SCT Tune:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19ZTJsAy-5M

1. what do you think ? is it rich enough to run high rpm´s for a longer time ? what did you have (air/fuel) with the stock Ford Racing (BKK) software ?

2. did i need an oil cooler ?

3. what are the pros of other spurg plugs ? are the denso iridium colder ?
or do you still run the original motorcraft ?


has anyone of you experinces with long "high rpm driving" ?
 

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Cant see your AF well enough to tell anything , oil temp isnt as important as intake air temp and what it is doing to your timing

What octane do you have there ?

I have a lot of experiance with long high RPM driving , what are you calling long high RPM driving ?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it´s 98 octane. it´s called super+ in germany. it´s 3 octane higher then normal.

the AF is the gauge on the left . its about 0,94-0,98

long rpm drive is for example a half houre at full throttle. then a short normal drive and then again a full houre by 124-135. just driving fast as possibel on the autobahn from one city to another
 

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Tom just for your info 98 over here is something like 93-94 over there

Team, you don't have Shell V-Power 100 over there ?
Plus, you can check your IAT if it's getting higher after while driving on full throttle, but it will be different now, during winter and tehn during summer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tom just for your info 98 over here is something like 93-94 over there

Team, you don't have Shell V-Power 100 over there ?
Plus, you can check your IAT if it's getting higher after while driving on full r

hello,
yes we have Shell V-Power 100 here.

Plus, you can check your IAT if it's getting higher after while driving on full r


How can i check my IAT ???
 

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How can i check my IAT ???
Pick up a ScanGauge II. Great little device that shows all kinds of info including IAT.

http://www.scangauge.com/

Also, I wouldn't worry much about building too much heat on long runs with the JRSC. I run a JRSC/BBK on my '00 Focus race car (with the Ford "mail-in" tune). It runs WOT for 20-minute sprints as well as 1 hour enduros without issue. I'm not saying that the JRSC doesn't introduce some heat in the engine, but with proper monitoring and decent cooling system (I run a Fluidyne radiator) you should be good to go. Good luck!

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #14
scangauge is an opportunity, but the IAT that is shown is from the IA bevore the blower (measured by the MAF). does it help me ? or did you mean, i can get conclusions out of the IAT after the blower ?


what Air/Fuel ratio did the stock Ford Racing tune (BBK) has ?

did you have an oil-cooler in your race car, or what did you mean with "I run a Fluidyne radiator" ? sorry, i don´t understand this. can you explain it with other words ?

thanks a lot to all ! [race]
 

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It's my understanding that the scangauge shows temps from the IAT after the blower (I could be wrong).

The only AFR I have to go by with respect to the Ford tune is what was determined from my recent dyno session (http://www.danhardison.com/focus/dyno_11-10-08/dyno_11-10-08.jpg). At WOT the AFR was in the low 12s to low 14s. Some would say that is a bit lean, and I would tend to agree, although I had no issues running in the heat of summer with that AFR. I'd like to see 10-12s vs 12-14s though.

I do not run an oil-cooler. The Fluidyne I mentioned is a hi-flow engine coolant radiator (http://www.eracingworks.com/Fluidyne-Radiator-00-03-Ford-Focus-Radiator-FHP11-00FOC-p-44390.html). My engine coolant temps dropped 25-30 degrees once I removed the stock radiator and installed the Fluidyne.
 

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Pick up a ScanGauge II. Great little device that shows all kinds of info including IAT.

http://www.scangauge.com/

Also, I wouldn't worry much about building too much heat on long runs with the JRSC. I run a JRSC/BBK on my '00 Focus race car (with the Ford "mail-in" tune). It runs WOT for 20-minute sprints as well as 1 hour enduros without issue. I'm not saying that the JRSC doesn't introduce some heat in the engine, but with proper monitoring and decent cooling system (I run a Fluidyne radiator) you should be good to go. Good luck!

Dan
Not the case at all , The water temp has NOTHING to do with the intake air temp, If the intake air temp gets to high you cannot add a big enough Raid or carry enough water to save the engine , the coolent has NOTHING to do with how high or dangerous the IAT get , you could run 180 Deg water temp and melt down every piston

You have 2 temps with an engine water/coolent and internal combustion temp

As the IAT goes up the ECU pulls timing to TRY to keep things safe the problem is the jrsc gets so hot that it ends up pulling more timing then it should and causes the EGT to go through the roof killing the engine , so telling him a good cooling system and he will be good just isnt so

Tom
 

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It's my understanding that the scangauge shows temps from the IAT after the blower (I could be wrong).

The only AFR I have to go by with respect to the Ford tune is what was determined from my recent dyno session (http://www.danhardison.com/focus/dyno_11-10-08/dyno_11-10-08.jpg). At WOT the AFR was in the low 12s to low 14s. Some would say that is a bit lean, and I would tend to agree, although I had no issues running in the heat of summer with that AFR. I'd like to see 10-12s vs 12-14s though.

I do not run an oil-cooler. The Fluidyne I mentioned is a hi-flow engine coolant radiator (http://www.eracingworks.com/Fluidyne-Radiator-00-03-Ford-Focus-Radiator-FHP11-00FOC-p-44390.html). My engine coolant temps dropped 25-30 degrees once I removed the stock radiator and installed the Fluidyne.
12 is borderline safe AF at best , to be wanting to do long hard runs you should be in the mid 10`s as for the raidiator and cooling read above

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #19
12 is borderline safe AF at best , to be wanting to do long hard runs you should be in the mid 10`s as for the raidiator and cooling read above

Tom

what do you mean with 12 and 10 ? Air/Fuel over 1 is lean, and AF under 1 is rich. but what is 12 and 10 AF ?

did i need other spark plugs or an oil cooler ? (because the jrsc puts more heat in the engine)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
or does it gave any "boost controler" for a roots blower ?
so i can limited the boost to 3-4 psi by driving a long way with high rpm´s ?
 
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