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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the car is a 2003 LX with SPI and ATX

the problem is that when i am at a red light or something, the car will begin to jerk as if misfiring, it actually makes the car shake
this started out as very occasional, but its gotten alot worse

if i put it in neutral the jerking goes away(though sometime i feel it jerk in neutral as well, but rarely)

also lately ive been getting this jerking when just starting out in reverse

to me it seems like it may be the torque converter but i dont know


if anyone has any ideas please let me know, i appreciate any help.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok ill add that one to the check list

i just looked in the hanes manual and that thing looks like a PITA to get to...am i looking at the right thing
 

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Hey. I have the same issue as you explaining. I also have a 2003 and an SPI.

The problem is not exactly jerking, it is the vibration. When you sit in the car at a light you can feel car regularly vibrating, but then there is a change in vibration for about 3 little jerks and then vibrates normally. This seems to happen consistently. I don't think it is a torque converter.

I tried a few things.

-Cleaned IAC
-Clean MAF
-Replaced Plugs
-Replaced Wires
-PCV valve and Hose were inspected and are in good condition
-Did the BIG 3 (grounding) but did not finish it yet. Have to add some more grounding points.

I've been struggling with this for awhile. Car works great, it's just some people like me find this issue very annoying and not pleasant.

I also DO NOT blame the mounts, because there is a pattern in these vibrations. If it was a mount, the vibration would be constant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey. I have the same issue as you explaining. I also have a 2003 and an SPI.

The problem is not exactly jerking, it is the vibration. When you sit in the car at a light you can feel car regularly vibrating, but then there is a change in vibration for about 3 little jerks and then vibrates normally. This seems to happen consistently. I don't think it is a torque converter.

I tried a few things.

-Cleaned IAC
-Clean MAF
-Replaced Plugs
-Replaced Wires
-PCV valve and Hose were inspected and are in good condition
-Did the BIG 3 (grounding) but did not finish it yet. Have to add some more grounding points.

I've been struggling with this for awhile. Car works great, it's just some people like me find this issue very annoying and not pleasant.

I also DO NOT blame the mounts, because there is a pattern in these vibrations. If it was a mount, the vibration would be constant.
ill try those today too....the thing is the fact that it only does it when its idling in drive is whats making me think that its something with the transaxle....
if i put it in neutral it stops
 

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Same problem man.... Have yours been in an accident by any chance ? Front end or fenders ?

P.S. I haven't fixed it yet. Those were some of the things that i just tried.
 

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Well peeps, I have no freaking idea. I agree with your surmise about the motor mounts, however, if nothing else works- I'd at least visually inspect the mounts as well as trying the engine mount test. Very simply, engage e-brake, chock wheels, put car in drive, hit accel, have someone watch the engine. 1" or so is normal movement. More than that, and you should start looking for damage on each mount. Look for rips, cracks, tears, and any other signs of physical damage.

It's basically Sherlock Holmes logic- when you've eliminated the obvious, what remains, no matter how incredulous, must be the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i really dont think that its mounts...the pasanger side was replace like 5k miles ago....

do you guys think it could be the charging system....ive noticed that the lights really dim when the jerking happens .... i mean simultaneously

and today i drove my dad to work(well he drove while i was sleeping) and when we got to his work he turned the car off so that i could put in my own key....
well i turned the key but the engine didnt crank, but it finally turned on after a few tries...the thing is there wasnt that clicking noise that the starter makes when your battery is drained. also my CD player reset(radio and eq presets, time )

then when i got home i turned it off and then tried to turn it on again, and this time when i turned the key to the on position (but not far enough to turn on the engine you know what i mean) all the lights on the dash that usually come on were like 3 or 4 second late..... its really weird

im gonna go look over the wiring a little later when its a bit warmer out side
 

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Could be, i have a flickering issue also, but i have done the BIG 3. The flickering is still there.
However i think i grounded the engine poorly, since i used the timing belt cover to ground the engine to chassis. So its

timing belt cover bolt --->> to chassis SPI has a difficult spot for stock grounding so i wanted to avoid that. Is that enough or should i make a couple of more grounds ?? never hurts to ground
 

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check your timing belt
or i donno is your alternator dying out? get it tested because if your alternator cant provide the proper voltage consistently your electronics, headlights, fuel pump the car will not run properly which means proper delivery of fuel ,or engine crank(ing) ,misfires can all occur simultaneously causing your problem to happen

most part stores can run a free diagnostics on your ECU
and most have an on hand battery and alternator tester at the store for FREE!!!

wouldnt hurt to check if this problem is affecting your electrical system as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i dont trust those battery tests at the stores...last time i went they drained my battery and said i needed a new one even though it would crank hard in like -10 degrees....and only take like 3 cranks to turn the engine on

but ill see...

i went and looked at my bettery and noticed that there was a bunch of that white powdery crap on both of the posts.....it might be that the battery is actually going bad this time or something...what do you guys think
 

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Sounds like the problem I've been having the last couple days. Trying to start the car cold was starting to seem more difficult like the battery was low on power so I replaced the battery 2 days ago. Ever since I replaced the battery I have a constant vibrating idle and power surging with everything (headlights, heater, ect...). Does your transmission shift much firmer than usual or is it just when idling. My first to second shift is almost violent for what's suppose to be an economical car, I think if the car had more power it would chirp between gears no problem.
 

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ive been having the same problem and trying to figure it out, do you headlights dim when you are at a stop mine will start to dim as soon as i press on the brakes when coming to a stop.
 

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Well I fixed that issue today, seems like when I had my engine changed (it blew 2 weeks after I bought the car) that the harness that goes to the alt and ac was left hanging and caught the drive belt cutting one wire in the harness. Once I soldered the wires back together and tapped them up everything was fine, for about ten minutes [???:)] I still have the hard shifting and now the car seems like it's flooding while it's idling? Didn't think EFi did anything like that but I figure something metering the A/F has to be messed up.
 

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did you do a battery reset after you fixed the wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i found the problem...im a little embarassed

like 4 months ago i changed my spark plugs...but when i was pulling the third wire out the cap broke

i couldnt afford new cables so i let it go, and the car seemed to run fine for a while...

well i completely forgot about that until now when it started to give me problems

it turns out that the spark was arcing to the engine block causing a misfire, and the reason it did it only on idle is because there is less voltage coming to the plugs compared to when the rpms are up

i cant believe this happened

thanks for your suggestions though everyone
 

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whoot its over !!
bet u r relieved
 

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I AM NOT. MY spark plugs and wires are fine, everything is checked. I have new wires too :)

The Headlights do dim, so i am really betting on eletrical system. Alternator testing should be done ???

So how do they test the alt ?? The battery power at idle is fine so i assume the alternator is working.
 
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