need to rotate the tires on my 05 zx4. I have a 2 ton floor jack. is there any place on the car strong enough to be able to put the jack and take both tires off of one side at a time? I know the rail for the jack that comes with the car is strong enough to change one tire,but is it strong enough to get both tires off the ground without damaging it? Thanks!!
jacking points?
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Place it under the front jacking point (under front of driver's door at rocker pinch weld) & it'll lift both front & rear.
Use some padding, I've got old hockey pucks that work well but a block of wood is better than nothing. Grain ACROSS the car of course so you don't split it.
Use some padding, I've got old hockey pucks that work well but a block of wood is better than nothing. Grain ACROSS the car of course so you don't split it.
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Copied and pasted from another thread I just responded to:
I use a block of wood behind the "jacking point" on the pinch weld -- not on the pinch itself. If you look at the scissor jack that comes with the car, it is not actually lifting the pinch. It has a raised reinforced lip that is pressing up on the horizontal steel behind and above the pinch, and it's that spot that bears the weight of the car. So I just put a small wood block there and pump it up with a floor jack. No crunching metal, no bent pinch weld. On the front I have only lifted one side at a time and wouldn't recommend trying to find a central point.
FYI, I had a friend replace the passenger side rocker and he tried to lift the whole side from a point inside the wheelbase. The result was more body work!
Toby
I use a block of wood behind the "jacking point" on the pinch weld -- not on the pinch itself. If you look at the scissor jack that comes with the car, it is not actually lifting the pinch. It has a raised reinforced lip that is pressing up on the horizontal steel behind and above the pinch, and it's that spot that bears the weight of the car. So I just put a small wood block there and pump it up with a floor jack. No crunching metal, no bent pinch weld. On the front I have only lifted one side at a time and wouldn't recommend trying to find a central point.
FYI, I had a friend replace the passenger side rocker and he tried to lift the whole side from a point inside the wheelbase. The result was more body work!
Toby
The horizontal right behind the pinch is thin single layer sheetmetal, it should eventually give as well. At least a little better hidden that way. Wood block is the trick, it spreads out force to spread out the local stress point to not damage the flat there. I'd be d-mn careful there though; the lift point can slip off jack easily when jacked like that, the OEM pinch jackpoint positively locates the hold point so jack cannot slip off.
I've been jacking up at the subframe. There's an "official" jacking point on the front, where the dogbone mount bolts up, and I've just been jacking up right in the middle of the subframe in the rear. That's not an officially-recommended spot, although I can't really figure out why since it recommends to put jack stands back there (which frankly seems a bit sketchy to me).
I haven't had the best luck jacking up on pinch welds before on other cars, although the block of wood with a V-notch seems like it would help. Plus, I like to use the pinch welds for the jack stands.
It seems like there's less twisting of the unibody frame by jacking on the subframe vs. jacking one corner at a time--but that may not really matter much.
I haven't had the best luck jacking up on pinch welds before on other cars, although the block of wood with a V-notch seems like it would help. Plus, I like to use the pinch welds for the jack stands.
It seems like there's less twisting of the unibody frame by jacking on the subframe vs. jacking one corner at a time--but that may not really matter much.
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