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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
I was replacing my motor mounts yesterday when my jack began failing and decompressing. I managed to replace the passenger side one first with no issue, but once I removed the upper and lower tranny mounts the engine began to sink. I lined the two back up by constantly re-jacking up the engine but is there any negative affects as to what had happened? Anyway to check that the engine is properly aligned?
 

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if they were not aligned they wouldn't go back into place the mounts are designed to flex quite a bit as long as you don't physically see them separated or cracked you should be fine..

you should see the angles you have to put a early 2000's zetec engine to do the alternator or timing belt replacement. i opt to use overhead engine cranes or tie them to the gantry in my garage because its easier to swing the engine forward and backwards
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, I know I got the dogbone in right I was just worried if I brought the engine up too high to secure the upper. Next time Ill opt for the hoist
 

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nah the hoist i mentioneed is used usually for timing belt on the earlier zetecs.. with the zetecs you have to raise it and lower it several times to access the bolts and its an absolute BEAR to get them in and out.. the hoist i can just use a foot or something and swing the entire engine a few inches back and fourth without having to pull or push a jack holding the engine..

your engine is a chain you wont need a hoist.. as long as your engine didnt drop all the way to the ground yeah you should be fine

if i were to make a recommendation a true shop jack is what you need the one with the 4 foot handle that is 3 ton is the best they have good warranties.. i tend to stay away from the small handle princess auto/harbor freight crap.. my dad bought a harbor freight 3 ton and it collapsed lifting my F150.. when we took it back at 3 1/2 weeks old they said we abused it by overloading it and refused a refund.. so we dumped the bits and all of the hydraulic oil that was leaking out on their tile floor and walked out.

i never thought a F150 cab and a half weight 3ton+
 

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Old Phart
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Phew - title was SCARY!

Yes, you're OK with the trans mount - jacked up enough to get the nut/stud connected and even better run down without having to lift the trans with it is just fine.

It's nicest if you can support it long enough to let all the attachments settle into place before final tightening at the body, but close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went back and re-read the title, yes it seemed a bit scary haha. The little jack is about 5 years old and now it's just showing its age. I never used jack stands with it like I probably should have so that's why it is showing the wear and tare. I would get a true garage jack if I had an actual garage, but with my living situation my trunk wouldn't work to store that thing.

It just lost an inch of lift every minute or so so I had to keep jacking the engine up, I was worried that I had went too high on that upper mount since I couldn't tell where I started from exactly. But it didn't drop more than a few inches at most, so that's a relief.
 

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#dailydriven
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i had a similar issue when i did my mounts lol. scared the crap out of me. as long as nothing cracked and everything bolted in good then you should be just fine.
 

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Trump 2016
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Jack stands very important never trust a jack. Had a car fall on a friend. Thank god he didnt get hurt. Lesson Learned.
 

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i have 6 3 ton jack stands 2 3 ton floor jacks and 2 of those small dinky hydraulic jacks you can pick up from crappy tire for $30 (those are backups or a oh crap i cant get my large jack under times lol)

i usually have a car up on stands when i winter store it under a car cover i jack the car up and rest it on the stands using the lobes of the pring indents of the suspension so the suspension stays compressed, the frame/subfram has no strain and the tires are off the ground
 

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'I never used jack stands with it like I probably should...'

No other way to put it, that's stupid. I've done it myself in too much of a hurry, jacked up and part removed and looking at it out from under car and the jack collapsed all at once. Normally I ALWAYS use stands but not that time...............again...........STUPID.

FYI, if you jack up too much with no engine mount you CAN damage things like CV axle, BTDT. You'll know it as soon as you drive the car.
 

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i have 6 3 ton jack stands 2 3 ton floor jacks and 2 of those small dinky hydraulic jacks you can pick up from crappy tire for $30 (those are backups or a oh crap i cant get my large jack under times lol)

i usually have a car up on stands when i winter store it under a car cover i jack the car up and rest it on the stands using the lobes of the pring indents of the suspension so the suspension stays compressed, the frame/subfram has no strain and the tires are off the ground
also forgot i also have 2 sets of ramps. depending on the job i prefer to use ramps then jacks and stands.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Usually I would just jack the car up to do brakes, never go under the car for any reason that would just be stupid. But, what I was saying was I've over stressed the thing through just leaving it up on a jack or two. Just went out and got a pair of stands and a new jack so I'm all set now.

When I went under I had one side up on a curb so there was some support there. Thanks everyone for the replies, just stressed the mount issue.
 

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dont be.. the mounts are quite resilient.. they are designed to take quite alot of beating just think of the potholes, bumps, abuse running into curbs ( older focuses are known to get curbed on the cats which pushes the engine straight back and up)
 

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I personally have seen them tear out by simply striking a curb just good enough to tear the bottom rubber out, they are in no way designed to take that pretty much at all. Any hard sudden stop can rip that loose. The engine inertia throwing forward alone can do it. My significant other has issues with sometimes jumping the point of a turnout say when turning left, the jump up and engine scrape on the end of the curb tip has torn one at 5 mph before.

They take a lot of load up and down all day long but not in any forward-rearward direction with full engine weight on them. Cut them apart and see why. BTDT.

Not looking to make any trouble here but my experience there has been nothing like that at all. Others may be different.
 

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I personally have seen them tear out by simply striking a curb just good enough to tear the bottom rubber out, they are in no way designed to take that pretty much at all. Any hard sudden stop can rip that loose. The engine inertia throwing forward alone can do it. My significant other has issues with sometimes jumping the point of a turnout say when turning left, the jump up and engine scrape on the end of the curb tip has torn one at 5 mph before.

They take a lot of load up and down all day long but not in any forward-rearward direction with full engine weight on them. Cut them apart and see why. BTDT.

Not looking to make any trouble here but my experience there has been nothing like that at all. Others may be different.
xD that means all my cars should technically have no engines.. they have all been curbed as ive had to drag a few off with my truck they ramp the underside up a curb or a parking bollard and lift the front end enough to not be able to back off it ive replaced oil pans and transmissions pans including several cats that have been torn open but never had issues with the mounts..

plus its not hard to look at the dogbone or the transmission mount to see if they are damaged its the passenger side one thats known to be a s**t design.

tell me this how does ford and all mechanics change the zetec timing belt without lifting and dropping the motor using the dogbone and transmission mounts still attached and not damage the mounts and dont tell me mechanics havent slipped motors off the jack when doing them.. not everyone is going to have a $400+ engine hoist for a single timing belt [slap]

i know your a mechanic AMC but people in rural areas beat the snot out of their cars including mine, mine are work cars ive only changed one passenger mount in all my cars ever.. its rare for the engines to FALL out of the focus if ever when the mounts go bad the worst the car acts is the engine turns the car into a vibrator and the steering wheel does the bohemian rhapsody bob back and fourth my gold wagon im working on now has 300,000+ and ive dropped the engine on it.. it fell about 4 inches until it leaned on the engine bay subframe when i slipped a bolt and the assembly slipped..

how many people in this form have posted about parking the car on the cat over a curb quite a few..
 

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Look at what you yourself say, the answer is there somewhere in the middle. I myself lift them all day long as long as it is up/down and often while mount is attached, you just limit the travel. Why I said CUT THEM APART.

I have NEVER said the engines fall out although they can come very close, we had one guy here who picced one that did. BUT, falling out engine and a torn mount are miles apart.........again, cut them apart.

The main engine retainer inside the mount is the steel bowl washer shape molded into the rubber, it stops engine from coming 100% loose just like all other mount safety mechanisms designed over the last 50 years but it does NOT stop delamination of the rubber off the aluminum ring where it was heat/mold welded on in the slightest. There's a mile of movement before you finally hit that lock that holds the whole thing together and the mount can tear 50 ways before getting there.

I've cracked the pass side intermediate CV by dropping one too low (or too high, I can't remember now) on jack before, no noise whatsoever before the work and use jack and instant crunch, crunch, crunch, at 10 mph after. I knew it could happen and thought I was watching the axle angle but apparently not. Cracked tripod inside the joint. The service manual clearly states it's possible.

I haven't run a complete all-parts pass side mount in 10 years, mine have zero hydro action and 100% rubber only, the hydraulic portion being what fails them so often.

I rebuild the broken ones and using more of those parts you hate so much, I can take one with a blown out hydro section and make it work fine using maybe $5 in parts and again using the drill press. In fact, when the last two vibrated right out of the box I quickly cut the top rubber out to drain the fluid out and a bit more work and a massive 300% improvement in vibration coming into the cars. Both cars run fine like that now. Got a plan for a secondary pass side mount in a different spot if I ever get time to make it.

Admittedly I buy often cheaper parts but I refuse to buy the Ford pass side mount as the whole idea was designed by an idiot. Bigger 4s have been in the Ford lineup and no way did they shake like these do. I DO 100% push all people to buy if at all possible the Ford OEM pass side part (a rarity, their tensioners are far worse than aftermarket ones). It is better made than any aftermarket part out there. I have had Westar, Anchor, Napa, and DEA all apart down to the basic pieces and can pretty much tell you how each fails. The aftermarket ones tear at the bottom easier because they overcook the rubber to be too hard pretty much across the board, so by buying those adding to my own problem somewhat. I strongly suspect that all brands of OTC part there are pretty much coming from the same factory in China. Myself, $5 in parts and 15 minutes and I can have one in hand good enough to do what it needs to do.

Still love ya Bud. We just come from two different universes. What's wrong with that? Besides that, you don't know my wife, she is a car rough service Murphy's Law tester par extraordinaire.
 
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