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Discussion Starter #1
Clutch was working fine till it started not letting me put the car into gear. Clutch master cylinder was leaking so I replaced it and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled it. It shifts into gear now, but after sitting over night, the clutch shudders or skips right at the end of pedal travel. Once you drive it and use the clutch for a dozen or so start stops, it smooths right out and is normal. My fear is the slave cylinder is now leaking onto the clutch internally and that's causing the shudder slip until it gets hot and dried out. Is that a thing? Clutch was always nice and smooth on engagement prior to clutch master cylinder replacement and was only replaced due to leaking inside the car and not being able to get car into gear.

It doesn't leak on the ground either. Maybe still some air in the system? I went through a huge bottle of fluid manually bleeding them, pedal is still far far far softer than in my 15 SE with same transmission. Oh and now that it's getting cold, I've determined the dang thermostat is stuck open which I guess is also common. FML....
 

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The master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is too small. Just pumping the pedal does not generate enough pressure to push tiny air bubbles from behind the piston down to the bleeder at the slave cylinder. I have tried a number of ways. What worked for me was to run some clear tubing ( you can buy from Lowes) and place it over the bleeder at the Slave. Get a long enough piece so you can place the other end in the master cylinder. Open the bleeder.. leave it open... and pump the pedal. Now you have an open (free flowing) system from the slave back into the master. Keep the level up at the master. but this should push the bubbles out.

Or you can push them out from the bottom (there is another thread on here where it was done). Get a vacuum/ bleeder hook it up at the slave and push positive pressure into the system to force the bubbles up to the master.

There are a few UTUBE videos on guys who have run clear tubing from rear brake cylinders all the way back to the master to bleed. Crazy stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd read some of those horror stories from bleeding the clutch and was thinking of trying the long tube method you describe. Just getting frustrated that every time I fix one thing on this car, something else breaks. I've owned and worked on a large number of vehicles and never had such poor luck with a vehicle before.
 

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Dude you where just one year away from getting a great ride. The MK2 are awesome. I had a 2008Se with 5 a speed and put 130,000 miles on her without ever breaking down. I got side swiped... and they totaled her.. but I had to have another one. I bought a 2011SES and love that one also. Still have the 2008 because of the 2.0 Duratek and the 5speed.

I'm with you on the reliable thing. I try and squeeze every drop out of ride. My daily driver now is a 1996 Ford Bronco with a 5 speed and a 302. That thing is bulletproof.
My clutch master cylinder went out and I fixed it in the Autoz parking lot. it was a breeze to bleed.... but the master is big enough to push out the bubbles.

I owned a 1993 Ford Explorer 5 speed and spent two days pumping that master cylinder and still couldn't get any peddle.
 

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The master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is too small. Just pumping the pedal does not generate enough pressure to push tiny air bubbles from behind the piston down to the bleeder at the slave cylinder. I have tried a number of ways. What worked for me was to run some clear tubing ( you can buy from Lowes) and place it over the bleeder at the Slave. Get a long enough piece so you can place the other end in the master cylinder. Open the bleeder.. leave it open... and pump the pedal. Now you have an open (free flowing) system from the slave back into the master. Keep the level up at the master. but this should push the bubbles out.

Or you can push them out from the bottom (there is another thread on here where it was done). Get a vacuum/ bleeder hook it up at the slave and push positive pressure into the system to force the bubbles up to the master.

There are a few UTUBE videos on guys who have run clear tubing from rear brake cylinders all the way back to the master to bleed. Crazy stuff.
When you say one end goes in the master cylinder, do you mean in the fluid reservoir?
 

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Clutch was working fine till it started not letting me put the car into gear. Clutch master cylinder was leaking so I replaced it and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled it.

My fear is the slave cylinder is now leaking onto the clutch internally
Did you bench bleed the new master before you installed it?

Why do you think you have TWO seperate failures of the clutch hydraulics (leaking master and leaking slave)?

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did not bench bleed the new unit, bled the old fashioned pedal way with new unit installed. It shifts fine now and if you drive it long enough, the pedal becomes smooth on engagement like it should be. It takes a while though. I should check my motor mounts as well, the passenger side was replaced with Ford part shortly before I bought the car but no idea on the others. It has a fierce vibration in the cabin when started and cold though so maybe it's the rear mount.
 
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