It's a 2005, you don't have any spark plug wires to replace. You do have spark plug boots that you can replace. You'll see when you pull the coils off to replace the plugs. You'll need a 10" extension, or a 6" and 3" together to reach the spark plugs. Boots are approximately $8ea and can be purchased at any parts store. You'll get a boot and a spring. To remove the old boots, rotate the boot to break it loose, then bend it to the side of the coil, and it will pop off the nipple. I suggest a small amount of grease on the coil terminals where the spring connects to prevent future corrosion.
The PCV, the most common vacuum leak, is very difficult to get to on this vehicle. Let's not go there until we have to.
The best plugs to get are Autolite 103s in platinum or double platinum. This is one step colder than the recommended plugs, but due to crappy fuels being sold everywhere- it helps all my cars to have colder plugs. You will need some anti-seize compound to put on the threads on the spark plug. Just a little dab will do it. That stuff can get messy.
You should read in your owner's manual how to check the air cleaner using the flow tester under the hood. The directions on are in there, and the flow tester is located on the air intake behind the driver's side headlight- to the left a bit. It's green, red, and yellow- so hard to miss. If you have air cleaner issues, then do a search for "Stealth CAI" and plan to replace your factory air cleaner with that. PM me and I'll tell you how to prevent problems with water spray by using some old (or new) polyester panty hose. Factory replacement: >$200, Stealth CAI: <$40
I'm sure you're going to get one of those "guys" to help you change the fuel filter. It's located in front of the rear passenger wheel, about 2' under the car from the edge. There's a couple of things you're going to have to insist that they do. The first is to relieve fuel pressure by disconnecting the fuel cutoff switch and attempting to start the car afterwards. The FCS is located in the passenger kick panel under the glove. You'll see a symbol on the plastic that looks like a gas tank with a circle around it and a line through it. Remove that panel- it's held on by 2 plastic screws. Unplug the switch that's behind where the symbol was. Try to start the car, it shouldn't do more than sputter. It's now safe to work on the fuel filter. I jack up the passenger rear using the emergency jack supplied with the car, and wheel chocks. Then I wiggle under the car from the rear to get to the fuel filter. When they get down there tell them that someone insisted that you do not have to remove the white clip in order to separate the fuel line from the filter. Instead press down on the flat side of the white insert in the end of the fuel line. It sometimes helps to push the fuel line towards the connection, the flat side will click and push in- now pull the line off. To re-assemble, just push the line on. There will be one connection at the fuel filter that is upside down. Tell them to look for another disconnect point very near the filter on the same line. The flat side of the white clip will be facing down on that one, so you can remove that little section of line with the filter. The filter is held in by a 5/16" head screw on the bracket. Take a picture of the filter before you disconnect it so that you know which way it faces in the bracket. Fuel will not drain out of the lines, but fuel will drain out of the fuel filter. Before starting the car after replacing the fuel filter, and plugging in the FCS, cycle the key from OFF to ON, and wait 10 secs, then go back to OFF, and Start normally. This allows the fuel pump 2 charging cycles to get pressure up again. If it doesn't start, then you probably didn't plug the fuel cutoff switch back in!!
