Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Being new to the focus family I have a question about the plastic I m. Do they often crack from heat and cold over time. Any info will be a big help as I did find what could be a hair line crack as I was cleaning it. This is a duratech 2.0 2005 zx4.
Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Not sure how to fix it. I don't have the money to replace unless I can find one for 50.00 dollars. This car has 197,000 miles on it. I bought it five years ago with 147,000 on it and maintained it religiously but a lean code led me to the fuel filter which was oe then to a bad MAF sensor which really was bad and now to the elusive pcv hose. Which was split. so now that I have removed the I m the carbon on the butterflies tells me the p o didn't do any maintenance. And the play in the butterfly shaft is reduculous. It needs a newer intake but is it worth it.
Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
I would say to replace it but I know sometimes life won't allow it. A simple fix is to remove the IM if possible and take a dremel to the crack. Open it up very slightly and scuff the surrounding area. Generously apply a two part epoxy to it and let it fully cure. That should be a cheap alternative to replacing it but if it has cracked once, it'll possibly crack again somewhere else. In the meantime, I'd scout the area for a replacement IM.

Edit: just reread your post. You already have the manifold off... Yeah, epoxy the crack and tend to the other stuff. The butterflies are tumble flaps and they are prone for failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your help guys. One more question. Any indicators that the tumble flaps are in danger of imploding?
Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
Joined
·
1,352 Posts
Thanks for your help guys. One more question. Any indicators that the tumble flaps are in danger of imploding?
Thanks again.
They will be cracked. If they are you can remove the actuator. Pull the rod and flaps. Epoxy holes where the shaft goes through. Hang the actuator, still plugged into the harness, with a zip tie out of the way. That way the ecu thinks it is moving the flaps even though they are gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info. Where on the flaps will the cracks be? There is so much carbon on the flaps it could be hiding the cracks. Also there is a great amount of up and down movement on the shaft. I guess that's where the clicking noise is coming from. I believe I will remove the t flaps and shaft. But I wonder if jb weld will work to fill the shaft holes. Or should I use a two part apoxy? Any suggestions on the epoxy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
can always check the pick n pull yards, I'm seeing a lot of 05-07 2l duratecs lately. might be able to snag one for around that 50$ mark as a less temporary solution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
The plastic is pretty tough.

You can try a soldering iron, use a very fine tip and use the heat to weld the crack back up. Use real light pressure. Since the intake has negative pressure inside, welding the outside should hold a seal.

I would even consider using hot glue, like the black glue stick for paintless dent removal.

Or try a JB Weld product. Use a popsical stick or bondo applicator to apply it.
You can call them to see what they recommend.

2 part epoxies are formulated for different materials. There are fast cure times, slow cure times, metal, wood, metal to wood, vibration, heat resistant, chemical resistant. I know the plastic on the intake is very heat resistant, and I don't think any epoxy will just work.

Call JB Weld and get some advice. I like the 2 part in the syringe.

JBWeld
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top