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Discussion Starter #1
This is a how-to for anyone interested in adding cruise control to their second generation 2008-2011 Focus.

Before you begin, consider this: you will be removing and reinstalling the steering wheel and air bags. There is high potential for serious injury or death, so do not try this unless you are completely comfortable working with these items.

The dealer can get you a new steering wheel with cruise control buttons for around $300. However, if you are patient and look carefully, you might be able to find a deal on a used part through the various part sources. I was able to pick up a used steering wheel with cruise control buttons for under $100 shipped to my door.



Remember that you are monkeying around with the air bag. So disconnect the battery and make sure the system is completely discharged.



Here is the boring old factory wheel without cruise.


If you look up under the steering wheel, you can see where you have access to remove the air bag. Drop the tilt steering wheel lever down and you can get a screw driver to each of the 3 tabs that hold the air bag in place:



Here are the tabs that you are moving as seen from the new wheel:


This is what you want to accomplish. Here you can see how the tab holds the air bag in place:



And by moving the screw driver you can see how it releases:


Now that you have the idea, climb under the wheel and remove the tabs. They really go easy:


Once you have popped the tabs, the air bag can be removed:



Carefully disconnect all of the electrical connections and remove the airbag completely.



Some folks have reported that they were able to remove the steering wheel without a steering wheel puller. I wasn't. In fact, I had a hell of a time getting it off even with a puller. Just to test, I tightened the new wheel down and then removed the bolt again to see if the new wheel would pull off: nope. It was on there. The bolt is a 24mm in the center if I remember correctly. You can rent a steering wheel puller from many local part stores: the local O'Reilly's charges a $50 deposit, but it is refunded 100% if you return the tool within 48 hours.



Once you pop the wheel loose it comes right off


Comparing the new wheel to the old


Here is the difference between the two wiring harnesses. The one without cruise is missing several wires, but the plugs are identical. This is part of the reason this swap is so easy. Everything is there, just need the buttons!




New wheel goes on, and tighten down the center bolt.


Reconnect ALL the wires. Don't miss any or you will end up with an air bag light on. :)


The air bag pops right back into place. Because the tabs are spring loaded, you don't have to move them back into place. The air bag is back and the car is ready to go!



Reconnect the battery and put all of your settings back. I usually pull both battery cables off the battery when working on things like this. I connect the positive cable back first, then the negative.

Then it is down to the dealer to have them connect the IDS to the BCM and turn the cruise from "off" to "on."

Probably a 15 minute job unless you take your time and snap a few pictures. :) Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Good, informative write up. Did you have any difficulty getting a Ford dealer to enable the cruise control? I would expect them to be stupid about something like that since they didn't get to charge you for the rest of the work.

Also, I realize you want people to be careful working with the airbag, but there's hardly a "high potential for serious injury or death". They're dangerous if you intentionally do stupid things with them but it would take a freak occurrence to accidentally deploy one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE

I went to the Ford dealer for my scheduled appointment...

And they wouldn't do it. Or, more accurately, claimed that they COULDN'T do it. I spoke to the technician and he told me that the IDS would not allow him to reprogram the PCM. Said it came up with an error message.

The service department cited SSM 22177: installing oem cruise control system components on a non-cruise control equipped vehicle is not recommended or supported on any Ford vehicles.

They checked the as-built, and since it didn't come from the factory with cruise.. They said there was nothing they could do. I asked the technician if he tried, and he specifically said multiple times that they system would not allow him to program it. Not that he didn't have an option or a choice, but that the actual system prevented the reprogramming.

Of course they had no problem charging me for this info. Half an hour of labor for them to say they couldn't do anything I asked. Impressive customer service.

So, I'm not sure if Ford has updated their IDS system to prevent us from doing this, or if my dealer is just being difficult about it.. But as of right now, I have fully lighted, but non-functioning, cruise control buttons on my steering wheel.

Very disappointed. Would love to hear from anyone that has done this recently, especially anyone that is familiar with the IDS system and can let me know what I need to have the dealer do to fix this. The nearest Ford dealer besides the one I visited today is over 100 miles away!!
 

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So stupid, it's a drive by wire system, just change the 0 to a 1 and you'd have cruise. Why do they have to be so difficult?
 

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Moved to Second Generation Focus Non-Performance Discussions, and added to the How-To Archive. Please continue to update with information on how to get the system programmed to make this work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I am familiar with IDS, and they can do it, they just didn't want to, or were not properly trained. Try a different dealer.
UPDATE II

This is the latest as of 2/18/2012 - My cruise control is installed and working perfectly.

One of my favorite quotes is: "When a man sends you an impudent letter, sit right down and give it back to him with interest ten times compounded, and then throw both letters in the wastebasket." ~Elbert Hubbard

Sometimes, in anger, I tend to write out things before giving an opportunity to resolve the issues at hand. This is a good example.

I was able to contact several other individuals familiar with Ford and Ford systems. I clarified multiple times exactly what I had done, and what I was looking to do. They each confirmed that all that needed to be done was the programming of the BCM.

I called the dealer and spoke to the same service writer. I basically told him that I had done a little more research, and I think it had the problem solved. I told him I would run in before they closed.

I could tell that I may have been getting on their nerves slightly, but he was kind enough to humor me and give me the opportunity to see what the tech was talking about. He even had the tech come out to where I was at to show me how the system was responding.

Both were extremely pleasant, and I spent some time BSing about vehicles and such. I probably wouldn't have received the same service if I had shown back up making a scene. I watched where the tech went, and I made sure to point out that it was imperative he go to "Programmable Parameters" to change the setting.

For anyone interested in doing this mod: make sure you stress that the settings are changed in Programmable Parameters. I cannot express that with enough importance. Plug in IDS -> Start New Session -> Tool Box -> PCM -> Programmable Parameters -> Speed Control -> Enable.

I watched him click through the IDS, and it began to program without any issues.

I THINK he was attempting to view DTS errors the first time, or actually trying to reprogram the entire BCM rather than going into Programmable Paremeters. I honestly do not know where he went the first time since I didn't seem him try to reprogram anything. However, I can tell you that the second time worked flawlessly.

After the program, I took it for a quick test drive. The cruise control works 100% PERFECT!


I will stress it one last time: for anyone doing this mod, make certain you express to the dealer multiple times: they need to go into Programmable Parameters to make the changes. After that, it is a cake walk!

Good luck to anyone else interested in this mod!
 

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let me know how this turns out. The programing change is extremely simple and it can be done. FORD is just notorious for being pissy when they dont get to charge you for work. They quoted me $680 to install the FRPP KIT!!!! They said they would neeed 2 and a half hours per corner? seriously come on i swapped the whole thing out on the ground with jacks in a little over and hour.... CRooks...
 

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I just managed to completely confuse the $h1t out of wayne acers ford LOL, Thats what I hate about dealerships is that they cant think outside the box...they are told one thing and they have to stick to that..I told them to refer to the SSM message and that managed to confuse the poor guy even more....He said he has to talk to one of his tech's and that he'll call me back :O/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I went back and edited this into one of my posts on Page 1. However, I wanted everyone that has posted since to make sure they saw this update. :)

One of my favorite quotes is: "When a man sends you an impudent letter, sit right down and give it back to him with interest ten times compounded, and then throw both letters in the wastebasket." ~Elbert Hubbard

Sometimes, in anger, I tend to write out things before giving an opportunity to resolve the issues at hand. This is a good example.

I was able to contact several other individuals familiar with Ford and Ford systems. I clarified multiple times exactly what I had done, and what I was looking to do. They each confirmed that all that needed to be done was the programming of the BCM.

I called the dealer and spoke to the same service writer. I basically told him that I had done a little more research, and I think it had the problem solved. I told him I would run in before they closed.

I could tell that I may have been getting on their nerves slightly, but he was kind enough to humor me and give me the opportunity to see what the tech was talking about. He even had the tech come out to where I was at to show me how the system was responding.

Both were extremely pleasant, and I spent some time BSing about vehicles and such. I probably wouldn't have received the same service if I had shown back up making a scene. I watched where the tech went, and I made sure to point out that it was imperative he go to "Programmable Parameters" to change the setting.

For anyone interested in doing this mod: make sure you stress that the settings are changed in Programmable Parameters. I cannot express that with enough importance.

I watched him click through the IDS, and it began to program without any issues.

I THINK he was attempting to view DTS errors the first time, or actually trying to reprogram the entire BCM rather than going into Programmable Paremeters. I honestly do not know where he went the first time since I didn't seem him try to reprogram anything. However, I can tell you that the second time worked flawlessly.

After the program, I took it for a quick test drive. The cruise control works 100% PERFECT!


I will stress it one last time: for anyone doing this mod, make certain you express to the dealer multiple times: they need to go into Programmable Parameters to make the changes. After that, it is a cake walk!

Good luck to anyone else interested in this mod!
 

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Hi and thank you

Hello ,

In your post you stated to disconnect the battery and the airbag discharge . Do I do something to ensure air bag is off other than disconnect the battery ?

Thanks Guys and Ladies
 

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They have to be able to do it, I know the used car sales guy at the dealership I got mine at.

They ordered in my focus for a lady, but they ordered the wrong option. She wanted cruise and sirius so they had to install that at their expense and now it has both along with being loaded with everything else.

Ask another dealership[popcorn]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello ,

In your post you stated to disconnect the battery and the airbag discharge . Do I do something to ensure air bag is off other than disconnect the battery ?

Thanks Guys and Ladies
Time is the biggest factor. Don't just disconnect the battery and dive in the second the terminals are bare. Some manuals recommend at least 30 minutes.

I disconnected mine and grabbed lunch just to be safe.
 
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