Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am just finishing up installing a stereo from my old Cadillac into my 66' Mustang. However, due to the Mustangs tiny trunk - the 12" kicker subwoofer and box, and associated amp, won't fit (or if it would it'd require a custom box, holes to be cut in the rear deck to port the sound in, and it'd take up half my trunk space).

I have a 2009 Focus SE with the standard CD/mp3 player, in-dash etc. I was wondering how hard it would be to hook this amp and sub up to the stock head unit. Not interested in doing any wholesale changes, just want to put the hardware I have to good use. I think the stock stereo is fine, though the sub could only help :)

Specifically - is there an RCA output somewhere on the head unit that I could use to wire the sub to? How do I get access to it, if so? If there's no RCA jacks, how would I do it?

<--- 4th post (moved from general). Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
i've been looking into some of this, check if you have the harness in the trunk first for the sub/amp. if that is there, then the wiring is plug and play in the trunk, then check that head unit to see if there is an amp plug in, otherwise you will need the other head unit.

the back will have a female type plug in and it will say AMP in there lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I wrote an entire how to on this. Instead of going behind the head unit you'll need to splice into the rear speaker wires to add a hi-low converter for the sub if you have microsoft sync or don't have RCA outputs. Check the forums and read around to see if you have an RCA out on the back of your HU. here's a link to the how-to. Not all of it will aplly to you, such as the placement of the hi-low if your HU has RCA outs.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273222
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Again, only the running of the wires through the firewall and stuff like that will be necessary to you. Use the toolbar to search around to see if anyone has already written something for you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,585 Posts
he needs a pac sni35 and run it off the rear channel all thought it's kinda a band aid it wont sound nearly as good if you had an a/m headunit amp and speakers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
he needs a pac sni35 and run it off the rear channel all thought it's kinda a band aid it wont sound nearly as good if you had an a/m headunit amp and speakers
not entirely true. i am using the hi level inputs on my amp and the sound quality from the sub is really good. also i do have the audiophile setup in my car which probably helps.

And on another note, there are no RCA connections on the factory HU, and as far as connecting into the harness at the back IIRC it will not work due to some fancy electronic wizardry on the part of ford, even if it does have the stock sub, the radio will not send a signal down the harness if the stock amp is disconnected

also here is a link to a write up that i did on my 09 for running a power wire to the trunk, it works if you are running ATX or MTX.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209474

post #8. and your welcome
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
the sni35 takes your speaker output wires and turns them into bass for the amp
I'm sure it does. this is why i didn't just say that you are wrong and stupid for saying that. if you have a quality amp made for subs with a hi level input it is going to do the job same as an LOC.

but again, to stay on topic, there are no RCA connections on the factory head units. Your options here are A/M HU, LOC or Hi-level inputs on your amp.

the harness for the factory sub is more digitally controlled. There have been a few people who have tried this method with no luck. First, if the harness happens to be there even if you don't have the sub, then it is cut behind the dash.
Second, the people that have the factory sub that tried this approach had no luck getting a signal through the factory harness because there is a digital line between the amp and HU which if the HU unit doesn't see the amp, then it wont send the audio signal. This of course is a theory, but based on the evidence at hand makes sense. Either way, you will need to grab a signal from somewhere else as mentioned above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
any one now how to get the cd boot changer out from under the seat and were the wires go or how to accseess them please help its a 98 ford focus thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
any one now how to get the cd boot changer out from under the seat and were the wires go or how to accseess them please help its a 98 ford focus thanks
As far as removing the changer it would probably be easiest to pull the seat out. And for the wiring, once you get the changer out take a look for a general direction the wiring travels. This will give you an idea of where it is running between the changer and head unit.

Sorry for not being able to give you more specific help. Maybe of you start a new thread someone might be able to help you a little more thoroughly.

Joe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADPXrY6iIw4 Here is a video I made that will show you how to connect a subwoofer to any car with a factory head unit without touching the head unit.
Appreciate you making a video and trying to help others.[cheers]

For the majority though, that don't have the factory subwoofer, you can tap into your rear speaker wires. If your rear speakers are in the rear deck, reaching the wires is usually pretty easy. If the speakers are in your rear door, you can usually find them in one of the running boards next to the front driver or passenger seat.

Additionally, check to see if your amplifier can use DC offset as a turn-on method. (Any Kicker amplifier for example) If so, ditch the line output converter altogether and run the speaker wires directly into the RCA connections for the amplifier. That's your signal and turn-on altogether. No blue remote turn-on lead needed. Less money spent and as easy as can be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi guys, sorry ford bumping an old thread but I need some help, so I'm going to ask here instead of creating a new thread.

So, I've got an JBL GTO-501EZ amplifier hooked up to a Ford Focus 6000CD stock head unit using front, left and right speaker wires to get 2 RCAs (left and right) for amplifier. This type of amplifier doesn't require a LOC as it has one built-in AND there is a switch on the amplifier called "LEVEL" and it has 3 levels (LOW, HI1 and HI2) as you can see in the picture I've attached.

jbl_gto-501ez_3.jpg

All good, now here is the question: on what level should I run the amplifier since I've spliced into front speaker wires?[confused] [scratch]

Thanks for your time! [thankyou]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
Sometimes you just gotta say......RTFM! :D
http://ca.jbl.com/tl_files/catalog/...rs Manual JBL_GTO-501_751_1001_EZ_English.pdf
(Page 7)

In short, HI 1 for the majority of folks. Some factory head units freak out when they notice something strange going on with their speaker wires and may stop passing audio or throw an error message (mainly Dodge/Chrysler from my experience, but there's others). In that case, use the HI 2 setting to trick the head unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
@firebirdude, what sub do you recommend? JBL CSX-1400BP (350w RMS, 4 ohms) or this Kicker VCVR12 (400w RMS, 2 ohms) ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
@firebirdude, what sub do you recommend? JBL CSX-1400BP (350w RMS, 4 ohms) or this Kicker VCVR12 (400w RMS, 2 ohms) ?


Sent from my iPhone using FF Mobile Pro
That amplifier will not output it's full power into a 4 ohm load. The CVR is the better subwoofer anyway though.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top