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This is okay but the MK3 is slightly different, no? Sounds like I need the Stat, 8mm shallow and deep sockets, extensions (swivel type?) and some coolant. Seeing as how I need to drain and fill the coolant due to maintenance this is a good excuse to get this done.

Also to the above poster: how on earth did you manage to get under the car and take those things off without jacking it up? I can't imagine that being feasible in my gravel driveway. Don't I need to removal the splash guard? Can't do that without jacking the car up.

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Sorry, you're right. When I did my first oil change in my MK3, I never put the splash guard back on, but when I did remove it originally, I required a jack. The skid plate did not require a jack. You will need a jack to reach one of the bolts on the tstat as you will need to get at it from underneath the passenger side. I mentioned I didn't require a jack because all I did was remove the skid guard, drain the radiator, and remove the hoses before realizing I didn't have a deep socket needed to remove the tstat, so I put everything back.
 
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Those who are arguing about how long it takes to reach op temp apparently have no clue how a thermostat works. No matter what thermostat temp you're running, it's gonna stay shut (therefore warming the coolant in the block) until it reaches the specified temp of that thermo. Think of it like this:
You want to bake cookies, so you pre-heat your oven to 375 degrees. Your oven takes 15 minutes to heat up to 375 degrees.
You want to bake a salmon, so you pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. It's still gonna take your oven 15 minutes to reach 375 degrees. It's just going to continue warming up for an additional 5 minutes until it hits 450.

I've run cooler thermos in a number of vehicles and never had an issue. Not with heating, not with fowling, or emissions or oil contamination nor any of the other "issues" apparently associated with running cooler thermos. A 180 thermo does not mean your engine, its coolant, and its oil, is at 180 degrees. It means the coolant is at least 180 degrees at the thermo. I guarantee you it's actually much hotter than that in the head.

With all of that said, if you're questioning whether or not to do this swap, I might advise against it. There's nothing wrong with running the stock thermostat temp. Only reason I'll be swapping is cuz I wanna get my car tuned. I have the standard transmission so I'm not familiar with the DCT shudder, but I doubt a lower thermostat is gonna fix that anyway.
Well your post as well as some other experiences others have shared has pretty much eased my concerns. Only part I'm having trouble understanding (it's late and I'm about to go to bed) is the analogy since the thermostat refers to what temp coolant is allowed into the radiator. You're basically saying it shouldn't take longer to reach operating temp? Is operating temp when the coolant flows into the radiator? I don't really understand the science of how engines work that well I just know how to wrench on things a decent bit. Just FYI for everyone.

Also no I wasn't trying to say a lower stat would fix shudder. My point was a little bit of decrease in below the hood temps could benefit the DCT. I think Tom is on the money that the shudder is pretty much a result of bad programming. I mean if it's a computer controlled manual and the biggest difference is who is controlling it. Makes sense that the computer is being told to do the wrong thing. However it's been well documented that the shudder gets worse with high ambient temps and humidity and what's cramped under the hood no doubt makes it even hotter under there.

It's not heat alone that's the issue. It just makes things worse. My car almost never shuddered right away either. You had to drive it 30-45 min and then it would show up.

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Also I do live in good ole Echeck Ohio and I'm gonna have to do that soon. I won't fail the testing right?

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Finally got around to doing this today. Went through the headlight. Wasn't terrible. Clamps are the worst part, but I like the tension on those so I reused them. Regular pair of pliers was all those needed.
1/4" ratchet, extension, and long 8mm socket was all that was needed for getting to the bolts. No u-joint adapter or anything. It looks worse than it is, but once I was in there I realized that the intake sort of tapers in toward the middle of the engine and away from the t-stat so I had straight access to all the bolts. It was tight, but worked. To get to the bottom inside bolt you can peek through the intake manifold btwn the 1 and 2 ports and see it perfectly to help you guide the socket in.

One thing I would re-emphasize is to cover the alternator with a plastic bag as best you can. That t-stat is directly on top of the alternator so you will soak the alternator if you don't protect it.
Anyway, job done. Now just waitin' on Tom's tune and I'll be off to the races!:devilish:?
 
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Finally got around to doing this today. Went through the headlight. Wasn't terrible. Clamps are the worst part, but I like the tension on those so I reused them. Regular pair of pliers was all those needed.
1/4" ratchet, extension, and long 8mm socket was all that was needed for getting to the bolts. No u-joint adapter or anything. It looks worse than it is, but once I was in there I realized that the intake sort of tapers in toward the middle of the engine and away from the t-stat so I had straight access to all the bolts. It was tight, but worked. To get to the bottom inside bolt you can peek through the intake manifold btwn the 1 and 2 ports and see it perfectly to help you guide the socket in.

One thing I would re-emphasize is to cover the alternator with a plastic bag as best you can. That t-stat is directly on top of the alternator so you will soak the alternator if you don't protect it.
Anyway, job done. Now just waitin' on Tom's tune and I'll be off to the races!:devilish:?
Hello!! What's in your car? beyond the valve. Then tell us how you got the tune.
 
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