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This is okay but the MK3 is slightly different, no? Sounds like I need the Stat, 8mm shallow and deep sockets, extensions (swivel type?) and some coolant. Seeing as how I need to drain and fill the coolant due to maintenance this is a good excuse to get this done.

Also to the above poster: how on earth did you manage to get under the car and take those things off without jacking it up? I can't imagine that being feasible in my gravel driveway. Don't I need to removal the splash guard? Can't do that without jacking the car up.

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Sorry, you're right. When I did my first oil change in my MK3, I never put the splash guard back on, but when I did remove it originally, I required a jack. The skid plate did not require a jack. You will need a jack to reach one of the bolts on the tstat as you will need to get at it from underneath the passenger side. I mentioned I didn't require a jack because all I did was remove the skid guard, drain the radiator, and remove the hoses before realizing I didn't have a deep socket needed to remove the tstat, so I put everything back.
 
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Those who are arguing about how long it takes to reach op temp apparently have no clue how a thermostat works. No matter what thermostat temp you're running, it's gonna stay shut (therefore warming the coolant in the block) until it reaches the specified temp of that thermo. Think of it like this:
You want to bake cookies, so you pre-heat your oven to 375 degrees. Your oven takes 15 minutes to heat up to 375 degrees.
You want to bake a salmon, so you pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. It's still gonna take your oven 15 minutes to reach 375 degrees. It's just going to continue warming up for an additional 5 minutes until it hits 450.

I've run cooler thermos in a number of vehicles and never had an issue. Not with heating, not with fowling, or emissions or oil contamination nor any of the other "issues" apparently associated with running cooler thermos. A 180 thermo does not mean your engine, its coolant, and its oil, is at 180 degrees. It means the coolant is at least 180 degrees at the thermo. I guarantee you it's actually much hotter than that in the head.

With all of that said, if you're questioning whether or not to do this swap, I might advise against it. There's nothing wrong with running the stock thermostat temp. Only reason I'll be swapping is cuz I wanna get my car tuned. I have the standard transmission so I'm not familiar with the DCT shudder, but I doubt a lower thermostat is gonna fix that anyway.
Well your post as well as some other experiences others have shared has pretty much eased my concerns. Only part I'm having trouble understanding (it's late and I'm about to go to bed) is the analogy since the thermostat refers to what temp coolant is allowed into the radiator. You're basically saying it shouldn't take longer to reach operating temp? Is operating temp when the coolant flows into the radiator? I don't really understand the science of how engines work that well I just know how to wrench on things a decent bit. Just FYI for everyone.

Also no I wasn't trying to say a lower stat would fix shudder. My point was a little bit of decrease in below the hood temps could benefit the DCT. I think Tom is on the money that the shudder is pretty much a result of bad programming. I mean if it's a computer controlled manual and the biggest difference is who is controlling it. Makes sense that the computer is being told to do the wrong thing. However it's been well documented that the shudder gets worse with high ambient temps and humidity and what's cramped under the hood no doubt makes it even hotter under there.

It's not heat alone that's the issue. It just makes things worse. My car almost never shuddered right away either. You had to drive it 30-45 min and then it would show up.

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Finally got around to doing this today. Went through the headlight. Wasn't terrible. Clamps are the worst part, but I like the tension on those so I reused them. Regular pair of pliers was all those needed.
1/4" ratchet, extension, and long 8mm socket was all that was needed for getting to the bolts. No u-joint adapter or anything. It looks worse than it is, but once I was in there I realized that the intake sort of tapers in toward the middle of the engine and away from the t-stat so I had straight access to all the bolts. It was tight, but worked. To get to the bottom inside bolt you can peek through the intake manifold btwn the 1 and 2 ports and see it perfectly to help you guide the socket in.

One thing I would re-emphasize is to cover the alternator with a plastic bag as best you can. That t-stat is directly on top of the alternator so you will soak the alternator if you don't protect it.
Anyway, job done. Now just waitin' on Tom's tune and I'll be off to the races!:devilish:?
 
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Finally got around to doing this today. Went through the headlight. Wasn't terrible. Clamps are the worst part, but I like the tension on those so I reused them. Regular pair of pliers was all those needed.
1/4" ratchet, extension, and long 8mm socket was all that was needed for getting to the bolts. No u-joint adapter or anything. It looks worse than it is, but once I was in there I realized that the intake sort of tapers in toward the middle of the engine and away from the t-stat so I had straight access to all the bolts. It was tight, but worked. To get to the bottom inside bolt you can peek through the intake manifold btwn the 1 and 2 ports and see it perfectly to help you guide the socket in.

One thing I would re-emphasize is to cover the alternator with a plastic bag as best you can. That t-stat is directly on top of the alternator so you will soak the alternator if you don't protect it.
Anyway, job done. Now just waitin' on Tom's tune and I'll be off to the races!:devilish:?
Hello!! What's in your car? beyond the valve. Then tell us how you got the tune.
 

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Not going to go too deep into it, but the long story short is that the Mishimoto is a little low at 160, especially if you have a stock or catted DP, it can gum up the catalysts from too low of a temp while the new Ford 180 is the officially recommended one all around. Also keep in mind things like an intercooler upgrade, shaving the lower grill so all the honeycomb is open, and wrapping your crossover/intake if you have upgraded to an aluminum one that passes over the top of the hot turbo. Those 3 things helped my coolant temps a lot and I still haven't put in my 180 thermostat yet (have a '17 with a 194 degree stock)
 

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Even if you had a 160 thermostat your engine would still run in the high 180 to mid 190 range , a 160 would only hurt in the winter and you wouldnt have much heat till your engine heated up which would take a good bit of time

Tom
 

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Finally dropped in my 180 TStat today.

Here's a quick write up of the process:

Started off by popping the hood and taking off the cap on the coolant reservoir to release any pressure in the system. The car had been parked and not run since the morning. Used the scissor jack right under the driver door pinch weld to lift the car up slightly. Got under the car and used a straight screwdriver to undue the cap on the radiator. The coolant drains through a hole in the frame and goes down straight. You can tighten the drain plug to control the flow of the coolant. I used a few disposable aluminum cooking pans to catch the coolant. Plugged the drain and lowered the jack.

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Now comes the fun part, actually removing the stock OEM TStat. First I removed the passenger side headlight. 2 torq screws hold it down and a cable is connected to the light, all easy to remove. This will give you some room to work. Then I snaked a plastic garbage bag between the OEM TStat and hoses to cover the alternator which is directly under the TStat and hoses. The hoses are connected to the TStat and held in place with hose clamps that have to be pinched and worked back far enough to allow you to remove the hose. This was difficult and takes more time than you think it will. The host clamps have a notch that you can engage to keep them from closing, this will make things a little easier. I also removed the hose connected to the reservoir and this allowed me to move the entire hose assembly lower into the engine bay to give me more room to work with.

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Now the hardest part. The TStat is held in place with 3 long 13mm bolts, 1 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver's side. The passenger side bolt allows you just enough room to use a deep 13mm socket to break it loose and then undo it by hand. The 2 on the driver's side will require a wobble attachment as well as an extension that will allow you unscrew the bolts through the gap that the removed headlight provides. This part took the longest and was the most difficult.

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When you go to install the 180 TStat, finger tighten each of the 3 bolts in unision that way you have enough play to align all 3 bolts. Use the 13mm deep socket with the wobble attachment to tighten them firmly against the block. When I reattached the hoses, I used screw down wire hose clamps this time to make any future work a lot easier.

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I believe I grabbed the stant one. It's been awhile though. I'm sure either will be fine, it's a real simple part.
 

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Is there a motorcraft part number for 180 degrees? Or is it just the stant one?
The Stant one 48728

IF your not going to also do a Custom Tune where I can change the Fan settings for the cooler Thermostat going to the 180 doesnt do much , I sell Custom Tunes Focus-Power.com

Tom
 

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Is there any reason to switch to the 180F on a stock 5-speed?
If your not going to do a Custom Tune to Turn the Fans on sooner to work with the cooler Thermostat then it wont do much , with the Custom Tune it helps a good bit

Tom
 
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