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I guess I'd still call 20-25 deg F a fairly narrow range. My caution is mostly based on people who have a valve thermostat that can be completely removed which completely circumvents regulation, and will cause harm from over-cooling under lower load conditions or ambient temperatures.

I do agree that lower cylinder temps have a lower chance of detonation. My Supra runs a slightly lower temperature thermostat, but more importantly, it runs a significantly upgraded radiator to help the thermostat regulate engine temperature, and not allow it to ramp up as much under heavy load.

My question would be that if in all cases, lower temperatures make the engine more reliable and more able to make more power... Why would Ford's (And Toyota, Honda, GM, Nissan, Volvo, Porche, etc etc etc) not just choose the lowest possible operating temperature thermostat and make that the standard?
 

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I guess I'd still call 20-25 deg F a fairly narrow range. My caution is mostly based on people who have a valve thermostat that can be completely removed which completely circumvents regulation, and will cause harm from over-cooling under lower load conditions or ambient temperatures.
If you have a 180 deg thermostat and you get to 180 deg the thermostat will close to avoid the engine running to cool , the Focus , all year has a removable Thermostat , Most cases the engine runs 185 to 200 deg

I do agree that lower cylinder temps have a lower chance of detonation. My Supra runs a slightly lower temperature thermostat, but more importantly, it runs a significantly upgraded radiator to help the thermostat regulate engine temperature, and not allow it to ramp up as much under heavy load.
A new/larger Raid isnt really needed unless you cant keep the temps down with a stock Raid something we havent run into on the Focus even making over 700 whp

My question would be that if in all cases, lower temperatures make the engine more reliable and more able to make more power... Why would Ford's (And Toyota, Honda, GM, Nissan, Volvo, Porche, etc etc etc) not just choose the lowest possible operating temperature thermostat and make that the standard?
The Ford's (And Toyota, Honda, GM, Nissan, Volvo, Porche, etc etc etc) Have a set amount of time to fire off the CAT to pass emissions , if the CAT doesnt fire off they dont get the OK to manufacturer the engines , One of the ways to help pass the emission test is make the water temps in the 230-240 range which makes the combustion / Cyl temps hotter which fires the CAT sooner

Its all for emissions , if you look back to the days of small block Chevys 190 was hot , to hot , 200 deg you shut it off

Tom
 

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Super late response but I believe it will fit.

I'll be swapping out the tstat on my 18 this weekend. I will report back with any feedback and pictures if I can.
 

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Wont do much good to change the thermostat to a 180 with out also lower the temp the fans come on at with a Custom Tune , I can help with that lol

Tom
 

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Wont do much good to change the thermostat to a 180 with out also lower the temp the fans come on at with a Custom Tune , I can help with that lol

Tom
Lol Tom this is javier I’m sending you a data log once I change the Tstat and headers
 

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This is an excellent thread. Bit of a long read but full of good info both practical and theory. I donno if it's pinned but it should be.
I'll be installing the 180 thermo here soon (ordered yesterday) just before I install Tom's Tune (just waiting for one particular income check to come in shortly and I'll be ordering the SCT X4 and tune, so get ready, Tom).

Couple of questions before I dive into the job though:

1. The hose clamps- are they cool to reuse or should I get new/upgrade? I've been severely disappointed with the quality of wormgear style clamps lately, so I'm disinclined to switch to those; but if anyone upgraded to something better for the clamps let me know. Size needed would be helpful too.

2. I'm thinking I'll probably go through the headlight to do the job. However, I know removing the manifold would make the PCV valve easy access too... and I'm thinking if I did it that way, I could change/upgrade the hose for the PCV while I was at it. I've read that hose has a tendency to split as it ages. Right now the car is just at 18k miles so I'm not that worried about that hose yet; but if I swapped it with a silicone hose instead then presumably it would eliminate a potential problem down the road. Anyone done that? Is it something worth doing?

thx
 

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This is an excellent thread. Bit of a long read but full of good info both practical and theory. I donno if it's pinned but it should be.
I'll be installing the 180 thermo here soon (ordered yesterday) just before I install Tom's Tune (just waiting for one particular income check to come in shortly and I'll be ordering the SCT X4 and tune, so get ready, Tom).

Couple of questions before I dive into the job though:

1. The hose clamps- are they cool to reuse or should I get new/upgrade? I've been severely disappointed with the quality of wormgear style clamps lately, so I'm disinclined to switch to those; but if anyone upgraded to something better for the clamps let me know. Size needed would be helpful too.

2. I'm thinking I'll probably go through the headlight to do the job. However, I know removing the manifold would make the PCV valve easy access too... and I'm thinking if I did it that way, I could change/upgrade the hose for the PCV while I was at it. I've read that hose has a tendency to split as it ages. Right now the car is just at 18k miles so I'm not that worried about that hose yet; but if I swapped it with a silicone hose instead then presumably it would eliminate a potential problem down the road. Anyone done that? Is it something worth doing?

thx
Agreed, great thread and it really helped me decide on installing my 180 tstat on my own. I'll be finishing the install this weekend (didn't have a deep socket needed) and sending off a datalog to Tom for a revised tune (well worth it!)

As for the hose clamps, I removed them and reinstalled them when I realized I didn't have the necessary deep socket to remove the tstat bolts. They were scratched and bent to hell and back given how difficult they were to remove, but I was still able to re-use them. They are very tense and difficult to remove given the lack of space around the tstat. Once they are off, I would recommend replacing them with those kind of hose clamps that you can tension with a bolt as opposed to the stock clamp style ones.
 
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The clamps are reusable or change them what makes you feel best

The PCV hose on the MK3 is flex plastic and isnt prone to cracking , through the headlight would be easier if you can

Tom
 

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The clamps are reusable or change them what makes you feel best

The PCV hose on the MK3 is flex plastic and isnt prone to cracking , through the headlight would be easier if you can

Tom
Yeah the headlight was 2 torque bolts and a connected cable, very easy. Gave me room to remove the hoses.
 
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The clamps are reusable or change them what makes you feel best

The PCV hose on the MK3 is flex plastic and isnt prone to cracking , through the headlight would be easier if you can

Tom
Yeah the headlight was 2 torque bolts and a connected cable, very easy. Gave me room to remove the hoses.

Ok cool thanks a lot guys!
I guess I need to double check and make sure I have an 8mm deep socket too. I know i should...but my luck that'll be the one that rolled into another dimension upon last use.
 

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I'm wondering if the change to a 180 degree thermostat would help the DCT some by helping lower the under hood temps. I understand most of the clutch shudder is a result of stock TCM software but I'm for anything that would further prevent transmission issues. Someone on another thread said they had clutches changed, added the tune, and did 180 tstat. 20k no problems. I'm thinking both help but a minority with the tune still have some shudder problems.

Guess I'm just nervous about this new clutch. I think my TCM damaged my old one last summer as it started a small shudder again 2 weeks after the car had a day of erratic shifting and power problems. No way to know for sure though and I wanted to ask Ford what the clutch looked like or if I there was any way I could see it but figured I'd get a non answer.

So I guess I'm mildly mechanically inclined. Did all the engine/trans mounts myself. Changed the DCT gearbox fluid. Sound like I'm capable of this DIY? Sounds like the headlight is the best way.

Did someone say there's a way to do it where you don't have to drain the coolant? I guess I shouldn't avoid that though as I'm at 92k with original coolant. Probably need to do a drain and fill so maybe I should just follow the procedure.

Hopefully this is something I can do and it won't take me all day. I'm slow with mechanical stuff.

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The skid plate and air deflector are the plastic pieces shielding the underside of the car under the engine bay. IIRC, one piece is held on with torx screws and the forward most piece is held in place with those body work tab plugs (the black ones that you have to poke the top with and pull out). Easy.

305750

Item 22 in the diagram.

You need to remove these pieces to get to the drain plug for the radiator. It is a screw plug on the driver's side bottom corner of the radiator that is pointed/facing the rear of the car. Unscrew this plug to drain the coolant. I placed a bucket underneath and slowly unscrewed the plug to allow the coolant to drain into the bucket. I was able to do this without jacking up the car. Make sure the car has cooled down and uncap the coolant reservoir (passenger side) to relieve the pressure in the system.

Removing the underpieces, draining the coolant, and removing the headlight are easy and can be done so long as you know how to unscrew something. The harder parts are removing the hose clamps and removing the tstat.
 
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This is okay but the MK3 is slightly different, no? Sounds like I need the Stat, 8mm shallow and deep sockets, extensions (swivel type?) and some coolant. Seeing as how I need to drain and fill the coolant due to maintenance this is a good excuse to get this done.

Also to the above poster: how on earth did you manage to get under the car and take those things off without jacking it up? I can't imagine that being feasible in my gravel driveway. Don't I need to removal the splash guard? Can't do that without jacking the car up.

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Okay so I have some concerns actually about running the 180. I've been looking into this across other forums and see people talking about how it will take longer to reach operating temperature with a lower stat. As it is my commute to work is only 10 minutes and some mornings this winter it was only 10 degrees F outside. Sometimes the car only sees 5 minutes at operating temp before being shut off. I'm concerned it won't see this at all with the new stat. I'd like to hear some experiences to those who switched them out. I live in Ohio so our climate is all over the place. Lots of cold, good bit of hot, and all sorts of in between.

Those who have the 180: how is your heat? Does it put out good?

Not sure If I'm in the right climate for this change.

Hey Tom. What temp do you set the fans at?

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Okay so I have some concerns actually about running the 180. I've been looking into this across other forums and see people talking about how it will take longer to reach operating temperature with a lower stat. As it is my commute to work is only 10 minutes and some mornings this winter it was only 10 degrees F outside. Sometimes the car only sees 5 minutes at operating temp before being shut off. I'm concerned it won't see this at all with the new stat. I'd like to hear some experiences to those who switched them out. I live in Ohio so our climate is all over the place. Lots of cold, good bit of hot, and all sorts of in between.

Those who have the 180: how is your heat? Does it put out good?

Not sure If I'm in the right climate for this change.

Hey Tom. What temp do you set the fans at?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
Those who are arguing about how long it takes to reach op temp apparently have no clue how a thermostat works. No matter what thermostat temp you're running, it's gonna stay shut (therefore warming the coolant in the block) until it reaches the specified temp of that thermo. Think of it like this:
You want to bake cookies, so you pre-heat your oven to 375 degrees. Your oven takes 15 minutes to heat up to 375 degrees.
You want to bake a salmon, so you pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. It's still gonna take your oven 15 minutes to reach 375 degrees. It's just going to continue warming up for an additional 5 minutes until it hits 450.

I've run cooler thermos in a number of vehicles and never had an issue. Not with heating, not with fowling, or emissions or oil contamination nor any of the other "issues" apparently associated with running cooler thermos. A 180 thermo does not mean your engine, its coolant, and its oil, is at 180 degrees. It means the coolant is at least 180 degrees at the thermo. I guarantee you it's actually much hotter than that in the head.

With all of that said, if you're questioning whether or not to do this swap, I might advise against it. There's nothing wrong with running the stock thermostat temp. Only reason I'll be swapping is cuz I wanna get my car tuned. I have the standard transmission so I'm not familiar with the DCT shudder, but I doubt a lower thermostat is gonna fix that anyway.
 
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