Here you go, bud.Yes, that all adds up.
IMHO it's always good to remember Factory objectives in design when modifying for a different one. Virtually all "mods" are two sided, there's a loss for every gain even if only the extra expense. Most are a fairly direct trade off, the simplest example is ride quality vs. handling when selecting spring rates for suspension (and even there you can go too far for your objective).
Emissions being a fixed requirement, some decisions there are forced on the manufacturer. Short exh. manifold to CAT is an example, as that's the easiest way to get the CAT up to temp & working fast so far. Heated O2 sensors are only needed to get the feedback loop fueling up & running fast for the same emissions reason. Extra fuel & air injection are also used to "light off" the CAT by burning in it to heat it up fast.
Whether all of those make sense for overall emissions isn't the question. The standards are set to make having it fully operational fast the prime objective. (trade off decisions are fixed)
Normal emissions objectives when warmed up require both lean operation & 'cool' burn to reduce oxides of nitrogen. That's why things that don't otherwise add up like EGR get used. EGR by whatever method including valve timing puts "inert" gasses into the cylinder. That reduces the fuel needed for the oxygen present, and 'cools' the combustion product overall. Full volume of the engine cylinders isn't needed at cruise RPM for power, and the inert portion reduces the effective volume used for combustion. (maybe not a perfect description, but good for basic description of the objective)
Engine runs on the ragged edge of even firing at that point, the reason anything not being perfect leads to stumbles.
Much of this ends up with opposing objectives/results. We all know that lean burn (minimum emissions) ends up hot, the EGR does 'chill' that.
Hotter engine helps in a number of ways, from fuel vaporization for more efficient use of less fuel (less wasted as inflammable liquid) to the thermal expansion of cold air inducted. Even keeping the oil cleaner with less fuel & water contamination helps with emissions, as less oil ends up carried along with the contaminants when the vapors are burned (emulsion of contaminants/oil).
For added power/safety of the engine much gets reversed with the "cold" thermostat. You want to burn more fuel/air mix and have some leeway in temps for lean burn heating as limits are approached.
Thank you to TheNaughtyLemur!Here you go, bud.
There is a real benefit to adding the 180 to your Focus when added with a tune to optimize the 180 with Fans coming on soonerThank you to TheNaughtyLemur!
I understand the concept of tossing pennies in a jar until you get to $1. All the little things can begin to add up.
I can't imagine that swapping to 180 will make enough power difference to be worth messing with the design intent of Ford engineers.
Modders, of which I am one, simply enjoy messing with our cars. This feels like an easy task that we all can do, and that may be the attraction for many. Unless Tom tells me there is any real benefit when I see him for a tune, I'm likely to skip this little mod.
Now to answer this question which sailor covered , Ford has to hit an emissions criteria where they have to have an engine meet X requirements at startup and why cruising this is done easier by making the engine hotterApologies if this is buried in this thread and I didn't see it, but why did Ford use a 192 and why is a 180 going to do anything of real value?
There must be some sort of trade off for this switch. If it was all good, wouldn't Ford have simply used a 180?
Thank you for the replies!Now to answer this question which sailor covered , Ford has to hit an emissions criteria where they have to have an engine meet X requirements at startup and why cruising this is done easier by making the engine hotter
Your engine will still go into the temps for good emissions and all other requirements , heater will still work the same and as fast as a 192-196 would
Theirs no downside to a 180
Likely true, because I'm still a little skeptical about the 180 TS actual benefits. I do trust Tom, and he said do it, so I did it before I get his tune loaded.And Tune , with out a Custom Tune not much sense in adding a 180
Stant 48728 XACTStat 180 Degrees Fahrenheit Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FI72E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OvwaBbBZZE795Where did you find the 180 thermostat? I saw rock auto had a 160 that was backordered, but everything else I saw was a 190.
Sounds to me like your heater core is stuffed up.HI to all, i need to replace the t-stat on my 2005 SES. What is the OEM t-stat, 180 or 205?
Mine is stock open and i dont get much more than 150F* and i dont get enough warmness in winter. I want HOT air in these crazy Canadian winters....