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#dailydriven
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Isn't dexcool a really crappy coolant and causes problems and sludge up?
that was my understanding too.

i'd recommend just going to the ford dealer and buying the OEM stuff.
 

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Nope, do not mix in Motocraft Specialty Gold with the Motorcraft Specialty Orange coolant as they are not compatible.

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx

Motorcraft gold (yellow) only meets WSS-M97B51-A1.

Motorcraft orange is under Ford Specification WSS-M97B44-D.
Your right.but 12+ doesn't use the yellow coolant.I know my 08 did however.it's either orange(I know I put yellow,but I was referring to the orange,which I've never seen because my car came with the pink/red)motorcraft orange is VC-3DIL-B which is equivalent to dexcool.the pink is the premixed.the orange is the concentrate.but both are dexcool.
 

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that was my understanding too.

i'd recommend just going to the ford dealer and buying the OEM stuff.
the factory is dexcool equivalent.the only think about going to Ford to buy the orange is now your going to mix orange with pink/red.it won't matter as they are the same thing.not sure what weird color your coolant will be,as you won't get all the the coolant out by draining the radiator. I just bought the prestone dexcool,which specifically claims it meets Ford WSS-M97B44-D,and is the same color as what I had.stupid they made 2 different colors anyway.btw the thermostat was pretty easy.Just remember to take the cap off before unscrewing the drain plug!
 

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Hey everyone, I just wanted to confirm that 48728 is the correct part number for the thermostat and that it will fit my 2012 titanium? I was told by someone that there is 2 deifferent ones for our cars. Amazon has it for 24.99 and free shipping so i wanted to get it asap. thanks!
 

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Hey everyone, I just wanted to confirm that 48728 is the correct part number for the thermostat and that it will fit my 2012 titanium? I was told by someone that there is 2 deifferent ones for our cars. Amazon has it for 24.99 and free shipping so i wanted to get it asap. thanks!
48728 is installed on my car.
 

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Great. Thanks! I've just ordered it.
 

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Yes that is the correct part. I installed mine on my car about a month ago. It is for the mazda but it is a perfect match to ours also.
 

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I thought that running cooler temps increased sludge build up from cooler oil. That's what I've learned coming from working on my Jeep's 30 year old inline 6, so maybe things have changed?
 

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I got mine off ebay for $26USD shipped.
 

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#dailydriven
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why the heck did the 180 t-stat come stock on a Mazda 3 but not on the ford focus? that seems odd to me. seems easy enough to do although with the temperature getting so cold I'll probably wait until spring to do this on my car.
 

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why the heck did the 180 t-stat come stock on a Mazda 3 but not on the ford focus? that seems odd to me. seems easy enough to do although with the temperature getting so cold I'll probably wait until spring to do this on my car.
Yeah I got mine sitting in the garage until next spring too
 

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#dailydriven
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for those that have installed this, is it necessary to fully drain the radiator or can you just disconnect the hose and leave it facing up so it doesn't drain all over?
 

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#dailydriven
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thanks dude that's what I was hoping!
 

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I pulled the hose and left it elevated. Barely lost enough fluid to need to top off.
Good to know too I need to do in spring 16
 

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3rd Time's the Charm
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Just got done installing mine this weekend while doing an oilchange and the rear motor mount swap also.

Here's my words of wisdom:

1. Pull positive battery cable and tether in a fashion so that it won't accidentally reconnect.

2. Note path orientation of alternator belt that goes over the front upper tensioner. Use a 13mm socket (not wrench, belt will hang up on a wrench, trust me) to release belt pressure on the upper tensioner, move alternator belt out of the way. Remove tensioner from the block with two 10mm bolts. At this point I pulled the under-engine tray to drape a plastic shopping bag over the alternator to protect it from the coolant that would be draining all over it.

3. Use needlenose pliers and these hose clamps are a cinch. Probably because of the extra room from Step 2. Place drip pan under alternator area and pull hoses with a twisting motion to get them moving. You'll lose about 2 qts of fluid.

4. Tuck hoses behind harnesses and whatever is handy and enjoy your new clear shot at the thermostat. The only semi-difficult bolt with this method is the one just behnd the alternator, but you can pull the lower alternator bolts, and loosen the nut on top to swing it out of the way for easy access here too. I did not pull any cables off the alternator. To get the inside upper thermostat bolt, you will need a semi-long 1/4" extension and short 8mm socket run along the edge of the intake manifold. Not difficult, just have to be careful not to drop the tool. Break the bolt loose and remove the bolt by turning the socket/extension by hand without the rachet, it goes much faster as space is limited.

Never had to remove the headlight.

Took me about 45 minutes over my standard oil change time(was in the air, bellypan pulled already) including 15 minutes of fumbling with the belt because I didn't have another set of hands around to hold things in place.

Have fun guys, it's not hard, just remember this is basically worthless unless you have a tune that the fan calibration can be modified for.
^^ see notes in my reply to the OP's writeup. Your results may vary. I said you'll lose about 2 qts of fluid, so make sure you have a pan under the thermostat area before pulling, and a bit of extra fluid available to top off.
 
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