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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had been waiting to knock this out ever since ordering the HR lowering springs for my 2018 Focus S back in April. Crappy weather, family, and work made it hard to find time to knock this out. Finally finished it today and I am happy to report that it was very easy and straight forward. There are plenty of videos on youtube detailing this install but I always feel write ups with pictures are more helpful since videos can be edited for content and sometimes go by too fast. Plus posting these helps others find this post when googling for similar modifications.

Tools used: Dewalt ~100ft/lb rated electric impact gun, jack stands x2, floor jack, OEM scissor jack, 15mm socket, 19mm wrench, 5mm hex, 3/4" socket (for scissor jack and lug nuts).
  1. Jack car and place jack stands towards the rear. I used the OEM included scissor jack on the pinch weld and placed the jack stands towards the rear where there are noticeable cutouts to accommodate them.
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  2. Since the rear is lifted and the vehicle is front wheel drive/manual transmission, I placed the vehicle in reverse to lock the front wheels from rolling forward. I also placed wheel chocks on the front wheels just in case.
  3. Remove the tires and place off to the side.
  4. Undo both of the upward facing rear sway bar bolts and nuts, 1 on each side at the same location. The bolt spins freely so it needs to be held in place with a 5mm Allen Key while undoing the nut with a 15mm wrench.
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  5. Undo both of the horizontal facing sway bar end links. It is a 19mm nut.
  6. Remove both end links and pull the sway bar down to give your rear control arms clearance to drop all the way down.
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  7. Place a flat jack under the rear control arms where the springs sit and ensure it is snug but not pushing up any more than what it was. Undo the long bolt that holds the assembly together, it is a 15mm bolt.
  8. Slowly lower the flat jack. Depending on your mileage and wear and tear, the control arm may fall free on its own or require some taps with a pry bar to drop it free.
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  9. Remove the OEM springs and the upper rubber boot. Swap them out with the HR springs. The upper rubber boot has a notch where the end of the spring will contact.
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  10. Insert the springs, bottom first. Again, there is a notch to mate to the end of the spring. Ensure the top with the boot is aligned properly to the chassis prior to raising the control arm.
  11. Use the flat jack to raise the control arm until the mounting holes are aligned for the rear facing holes. The entire assembly can be moved slightly by hand to help in this process. Start in the bolt and see if it can be threaded all the way on through to the front facing hole.
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  12. If not, use your scissor jack to lift the front facing portion of the assembly slightly to get the proper alignment. Once you can thread the bolt through the rear and on through to the front, ensure your spring and boot are still properly aligned and then torque down the bolt (60ft lbs is what I heard).
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  13. Pull the sway bar back into place, snake the end links back into place, and reattach the hardware.
  14. Reinstall tires, raise car to remove jack stands, and remove jack.
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The above took me an hour because the YouTube video I used as a reference made no mention of the sway bar disconnect so I spent some time figuring that out. With that in mind as well as the above, I’d say you could knock this out in 30 to 45 minutes.
 
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FUBARCUS
2003 ZX3 2016 FoST
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Please add photos when you do the front. This is the makings of an excellent write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
310212


How it looks with just the rears now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice! I always thought that 15" wheels would look to small on this car, but the black blends nicely with the tire and makes it look pretty awesome!
Thanks! I think they're a little too small but I didn't want to get new rubber. The most important thing is that they are way lighter than the OEM wheels, can really feel the difference in the weight when driving.
 
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