[CustomRedFury]

Hey, I posted on here a while ago about my alternator issues and have since fixed them. The ground wire wasn't making full contact to the alt & bracket and after I exchanged the chingadera, I made good and sure that all hookups were 100%. Electrical problems have practically disappeared since then.

Now I need to tackle my suspension. The front passenger side wheel likes to rattle and erm, give a little if accelerating during a turn. The rattle has gotten worse and something needs to be done ASAP. Last alignment I got (just a couple of months ago), it was brought to my attention that the front struts and strut mounts were hella no bueno so I'm going to replace the struts and strut mounts.

I'm hoping to do front AND rear because why not. Unless it's deemed by you guys as totally unnecessary, of course. Does anyone know where I can get a full shock/strut/strut mount package for the front and rear of a 2002 SVT Focus for cheaps? In addition, would anyone be willing to direct me to a semi-decent how-to guide? I have done suspension work before but my MO is mainly large trucks so... yeah Thank you!

 

[sailor]

Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis

 

[Tundrafoci]

M-18000-ZX3 This is the kit you want, I can find it at summitracing.com for ~200$

 

[CustomRedFury]

M-18000-ZX3 This is the kit you want, I can find it at summitracing.com for ~200$

Got it... but what do I do about the front springs?

 

[Tundrafoci]

You can remove your old springs and reuse them or buy new ones. Just need a spring compressor. If you want to go the new route you have two options

M-3000-ZX3 this one is not pre-assembled but has a new sway.

M-3000-ZX3A This one is the suspension pre-assembled but has no sway bar.


I suggest you just pull your old ones using a spring compressor and use those.

 

[CustomRedFury]

You can remove your old springs and reuse them or buy new ones. Just need a spring compressor. If you want to go the new route you have two options

M-3000-ZX3 this one is not pre-assembled but has a new sway.

M-3000-ZX3A This one is the suspension pre-assembled but has no sway bar.


I suggest you just pull your old ones using a spring compressor and use those.

I ordered the FMS-M-18000-ZX3 containing front struts and mounts, rear shocks and spring seats. It does not include a sway (my swaybar is fine), or front springs.

The way I see it, the front springs are not necessary at the moment. The current springs are serving their purpose, it is the struts and mounts that were diagnosed by the guy doing my alignment (that shop is the best in town - they do manual toe in/out alignments). Think that may be why the steering knuckle is making that annoying thunking sound? Hope so.

Anywho, hate to ask more obvious questions but I am 100% not willing to do this over again. SHOULD I get a compressor if I have no intention of removing the springs?

 

[sailor]

Compressor is needed to swap old springs to new struts in the front. Not needed for the rear when not changing them.

 

[Nmarzoli04]

Compressor is needed to swap old springs to new struts in the front. Not needed for the rear when not changing them.

This. Rent one at your local parts store, as long as you take your time they're very easy to use.

 

[CustomRedFury]

This. Rent one at your local parts store, as long as you take your time they're very easy to use.

Gotcha gotcha. I finally got around to taking a look at it today because I got the kit in the mail. Looks like I just compress the spring and have a buddy hold it there while I just swap the strut. Decompress when mounted on the steering knuckle, yes?

 

[CustomRedFury]

Compressor is needed to swap old springs to new struts in the front. Not needed for the rear when not changing them.

For the front, compress them and pull them out? I need to change the strut mounts too, they are the main problem I have been facing with my suspension. I'm also doing the rear struts, however, so can/should I remove the rear springs when doing so as well?

 

[focusdaily]

For the fronts you need to remove wheel, unbolt caliper from steering knuckle, support the caliper with wire or something, remove rotor, unbolt sway bar link from strut, remove rubber brake line from strut, at the bottom of the strut there is a pinch bolt that goes through the steering knuckle to remove, then prying down on the control arm or hammering on top of steering knuckle to remove strut from steering knuckle, then finally 3 bolts up top in the engine bay, do the last one while holding the strut assembly so it doesn't just drop. Once you have strut assembly out compress the spring slowly, remove the bolt in the middle that connects to the piston. Reassmble new strut, spring, spring seat, and strut mount. Install back on vehicle.
The rear shocks have one bolt on the bottom, and one nut up top inside the hatch, you will have to remove some interior trim pieces to gain access. I believe the lower shock bolt is single use, so may want to get a bolt and nut from Ford ahead of time.
That's a brief walk through from memory, I would suggest to buy a Haynes/Chilton manual and familiarize yourself with the procedure plus it will have all the torque specs for re-assembly. A compressor will come in handy to get the one bolt off the strut piston once spring is compressed.
Good luck to you, at least in ca your car won't be as rusted as mine up in vt.

 

[Nmarzoli04]

For the fronts you need to remove wheel, unbolt caliper from steering knuckle, support the caliper with wire or something, remove rotor, unbolt sway bar link from strut, remove rubber brake line from strut, at the bottom of the strut there is a pinch bolt that goes through the steering knuckle to remove, then prying down on the control arm or hammering on top of steering knuckle to remove strut from steering knuckle, then finally 3 bolts up top in the engine bay, do the last one while holding the strut assembly so it doesn't just drop. Once you have strut assembly out compress the spring slowly, remove the bolt in the middle that connects to the piston. Reassmble new strut, spring, spring seat, and strut mount. Install back on vehicle.
The rear shocks have one bolt on the bottom, and one nut up top inside the hatch, you will have to remove some interior trim pieces to gain access. I believe the lower shock bolt is single use, so may want to get a bolt and nut from Ford ahead of time.
That's a brief walk through from memory, I would suggest to buy a Haynes/Chilton manual and familiarize yourself with the procedure plus it will have all the torque specs for re-assembly. A compressor will come in handy to get the one bolt off the strut piston once spring is compressed.
Good luck to you, at least in ca your car won't be as rusted as mine up in vt.

This. You have to remove the entire strut assembly from the car in order to remove the spring. There is a how-to in the archive somewhere, the best way is to put the strut in a vise and have another hand around to help you.

Oh and be careful! Remember, the springs are designed to compress a lot of weight so they have lots of tension. Take your time, and you won't have a problem.

 

[felixthecat]

He could also take the strut/spring assembly to a shop & have them switch them out w/ their compresser.

 

[SPIinDisguise]

He could also take the strut/spring assembly to a shop & have them switch them out w/ their compresser.

Taking ideas from me? I did this. They charged me $15 dollars. Took about 8 minutes for the fronts.

 

[CustomRedFury]

Done with the front struts, rear are pending. Think I should replace the tie rod ends?

 

[felixthecat]

Done with the front struts, rear are pending. Think I should replace the tie rod ends?

I'd do the tie rod ends next, also...

 

[sailor]

If they wiggle - Yes

Tight - No

 

[CustomRedFury]

Then I guess I'm good.

I've done the mounts and sway bar end links. The car has 160k on it and never had the suspension replaced, also now needs an alignment but the handling is so amazing now it's almost scary haha. Thanks for your help, again, guys!

 

[felixthecat]

Make sure to set the front & rear toe,,,,,,

 

[onlycodered]

If they wiggle - Yes

Tight - No

I wouldn't specifically say that. If the rubber boots are all cracked to hell then they're worthy of being replaced. It's only a matter of time until they go bad.