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Discussion Starter #1
teh stock zx3 brakes have the spring clip that attaches to the pad
the svt brakes, "the caliper came asembled with pads and what not"
but the question is are the spring clips on an svt there just to keep the caliper
from the piece that holds the pads, or are the springs supposed to be attatched to the pads as well, it might be a dumb question but I had issues last summer
with pads just riding the rotor
I need to see a picture of the front brakes installed or not,
and if anyone has a pic of just svt brake pads, specifically the
outer pad on the front brakes, I am finally getting ready to install
the svt brake kit and I'm painting the calipers and stuff before hand
and I want to see a pic of the front brake close up
 

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Which part?

 

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Sorry, that is the rear, just a sec............... here ya go:

 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks but that doesn't help me
I need to know if the spring clips are supposed to be attached to
the pad, they are not on the svt brake kit I recieved
does anyone have a pic of their front svt brakes
fully assembled with just the wheel off?
close up good resolution pic would be best

edit: oh yeah that pic of the front brakes
it's a stock zx3 pic, not an svt
you can tell by the way the clips are on the brake pads
 

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Those springs are goofy and they just hold pressure on, they are not attached on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
that is what I thought, thank you so much!
I should be getting my powerbleeder today,
I was just curious,
oh yeah would I need to go to a machine shop
to get the spindles pressed in to the knuckles?
I dont' want to mess up the bearings
 

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When I got a set of salvage spindles last summer for my BAT brake kit, I took them to a machine shop to have bearings pressed in. It cost about $50 for the pair. The alternative is finding a piece of pipe that's about the same diameter as the outer race and trying to hammer them in yourself, which is risky at best. I'd suggest taking it to a shop that can press them in...better to do it right the first time IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well I'm not getting bearings pressed in,
I bought a brand new svt kit,
according to the new directions ford has on it's site
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-ZX3.pdf
which are far better than the directions that were up 2 months ago,
it says to support the inner race of the bearing
I'm gonna go visit a machine shop tomorrow
and see what they tell me, I just dont' want to eff up anything
hopefully all this will be going on this next week
any special tools needed? I haven't seen a mention of that anywhere
thanks again everyone
 

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Its pretty simple, having replaced a spindle myself and moving all of the brake hardware from one to another. It took me about three hours all told to do one side, although that also included popping the passenger side axle out for replacement and all of the other happy BS associated with that job.

Basically, you just have to detach everything that gets bolted to the spindle...strut pinch bolt, ball joint securing bolt, steering arm and the axle retention nut. You'll also need to loosen the nuts on top of the strut tower so the suspension can swing freely, which will allow you to pull the spindle out to get the axle out of the hub. After the bottom bolt comes out (you just need to get the nut off the back of it, then it can be hammered out) you pop the ball joint out, then drive the axle out with a large piece of wood or deadblow hammer (or anything that's softer than steel) and then pound the spindle off of the strut with a mini-sledge. Installation is reverse, a word of caution; be careful to not mushroom the end of the axle when you pound it out. When I did my clutch reinstall we mushroomed the end of the passenger-side axle, which resulted in the retention nut getting stripped which later caused the bearing to wear out. You'll need a good socket set and a breaker bar at the very least, although air tools are a big help. You'll also need a set of center punches, a small sledge hammer, prybar of some kind and something to soften the blows on the axle end (I suggest a piece of 4x4 lumber.)

I'd suggest taking the car in for a front-end alignment afterwards since you pulled the ball joints and strut out of alignment in the process. Also, look into replacement hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) as the ones on the spindle now are sure to be rusted and will take a beating when they come off. What I usually do is take the hardware off and then go to the nearest hardware store and get grade 5 (or higher) replacement hardware to match. Some bolts don't have to be an exact match...like the ball joint retention bolt which is held on by a nut anyways, you only need something close in width and length.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well I believe the kit came with all new hardware
it says to reuse stock if not specified but if they look
like crap I'll replace them, so rear spindle bolts, front ball joint
I live in a VERY DRY part of texas, so I'm not to worried about rust
the night before the work I'm gonna spray the bolts with
some of that loosener stuff, and from the looks of the
supplied hardware, it appears it alreasy has locktight applied
 

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Discussion Starter #12
anybody know a trick to get the springs back in the svt calipers
my calipers look like crap already, since that caliper paint is the most easily scraped off stuff ever
 

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Discussion Starter #13
just did it, major pita my thumbs are sore,
but I figured out a full proof way
the second I figured out one, i did the other
without screwing up alot of my paint job on them


it just require more brute force
 

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Discussion Starter #14
pulling the ball joint can't get it to come apart
 

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Here's what I did; I removed the nut holding the bolt on that secures the ball joint, then pounded the bolt out with a centerpunch (the spindle isn't threaded so it's OK to pound the nut out.) Once it was out, I hit the top of the ball joint sticking up through the spindle, then once it loosened up I grabbed the lower control arm with both hands and then hung on it until it pulled out. Be careful, the control arm is spring-loaded to push up and it can pop right back into the spindle if it gets away from you.
 
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