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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys!. here's my problem. I have a Focus 2009 that the ignition turns all the way but car won't start. the only way I can make the car start is if I push the key all the way in and while doing that turn the key. sometimes it takes several tries to start the car sometimes it start at the first try. I removed the cylinder and I think is beyond the cylinder. there is like a small rod that the cylinder needs to push in to engage the starting switch and that's where I think the problem is. Also, how can I disassemble the ignition so I can inspect the components beyond the cylinder?. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Android Man.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Been having the same problem for a while now in my 2010.Really starting to get annoying. I just searched google and came across this thread.

I made a thread a while back and got nothing..

Here is another recent thread.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325804
I'm half way removing the switch assembly complete from my car. I think is in between the cylinder and the switch(which is in the back of the assembly). if I could disassemble the whole assembly I could figure it out. most likely I'll end up replacing the whole thing. will see... I'll keep you posted and thank you for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's where I think is the problem. The Second picture I have not use the flash not to exceed the file resolution to upload. is of the whole switch assembly. the first one is the assembly plus the electric ignition switch separated from each other. that's the part that is failing in my opinion. the contacts internally are dirty or worn. If you look at the mechanical part of the assembly at the left, the little rod at the center turn the electric switch. so it it not a mechanical problem instead a electrical/mechanical problem in the ELECTRIC BLUE SWITCH. What do you guys think????????
 

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There is a second possible problem and you are almost there. Please read the following that I copied from another post..........

Just wanted to pass this along. I spent the last two days trouble shooting/repairing my daughters car. It was taking multiple times to turn the key to get the starter to energize. At first it happened once in a while. Over time the problem became more frequent. She let it go too long and finally called Dad when the ignition failed to energize the starter at all.

The Focus is a 2008 SE bought new with 77,000 miles on it now. I believe this is the first year for the newer body style. She has a sales route with frequent stops and starts her car 30 to 40 times daily so her starting system gets much more cycle time than a normal car.

First, the starter was removed and checked out OK. The starter relay was switched and OK. The neutral safety switch (is a multi function switch) is located on the side of the trans at the shift linkage lever was not touched except to pull the plug, clean and replace.

The starter switch is located on the left side of the steering column directly behind the turn signal switch, it was replaced $43, still no start with the key. (I learned after to remove the starter switch but keep the wires plugged into it. Turn the key to run, insert a screw driver into the starter switch turn it all the way and the car would start.)

The key tumbler felt Ok but it was removed and taken to a locksmith who verified it was OK. However he informed me that a local repair shop had just had the same problem last week and the shop came to them. The locksmith worked on a new cylinder for the shop but that did not fix their problem either.

Since the repair shop was just down the road as I stopped to talk to them. They told me last week they did everything I did on a Ford Escape and finally had to replace the lock housing assembly that wraps around the steering column just behind the turn signal assembly. The lock housing assembly holds the key cylinder on the right and the starter switch on the left and also helps the steering wheel to lock when removing the key.

For just under $150 I ordered the lock housing assembly (part # 9L8Z-3511-A for auto trans AS4Z-35111A for manual)) from the Ford dealer. It comes with the starter switch installed (now I have three of them)but you must use your old keys and lock cylinder. The replacement lock housing assembly can be installed without removing the steering wheel. Here is how....

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the steering columns, top and bottom cover and the drivers knee panel under the dash.
Unplug the starter switch on the left side of the column.
Remove the security ring from around the key tumbler by unsnapping it from the housing. Electrical is done.

Three small bolts hold the lock housing onto the turn signal assembly. One bolt is on top, one on the bottom left and one on the right/front. You must use your key to unlock the steering column and turn the wheel to the right to allow access the right/front bolt. If you have one a 1/4" drive swivel will help. Remove all three.

Last, on top of the steering column you will notice an aluminum collar that holds the lock housing assembly in place. On the right side of this collar it is bolted to the steering column by only one anti-theft bolt without a head. (The head of the bolt is gone, designed to break off at the factory when installed for anti-theft reasons so normal tools cannot be used to remove it.) Ours had yellow paint on it. Use a small, very sharp chisel to tap the side of the bolt counter clockwise to loosen it and take it out. DO NOT LOSE IT! You cannot get a replacement.

You should be able to lift up the aluminum collar and remove the old housing assembly.

Use your existing keys you must remove the old lock cylinder tumblers from the housing assembly. Put the key into the lock cylinder and turn them one notch only, to the accessory position. On top of the cylinder is a small hole. Put a small torx socket (or nail) in it, push down, pull on the key to remove the tumbler cylinder from the old housing. Put the old tumbler in the new lock housing assembly.

OK, reverse everything and you are done. The hardest part of reassembly was getting the bottom steering column cover back on. I ended cutting a slot on the bottom of it to get it around the steering wheel tilt lever.

I did not find any information on this problem in my internet searches. However, I feel that as these cars age, over time many others will be having the same starting problems caused by the internal moving parts of the linkage within this housing wearing and getting sloppy. The linkage gets loosen up enough that when you turn the key on the right side, the starter switch on the left does not quite make contact to start.

Hope this helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bought today the housing and the switch for $65. on Wednesday or Thursday I get them. LET'S GET THE BEER READY!!!!! [popcorn]
 

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Just curious, where did you get the housing AND ignition switch for $65? I thought the housing, which came with the ignition switch, was a Ford dealer only part for around $150!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Update!

Just installed the housing. the problem part for this failure is NOT THE ELECTRIC SWITCH, is the HOUSING. SO, I JUST SPEND ONLY $46.13 plus tax for the part. The Housing center pin MUST push the center pin part of the switch in order to start the car. I use the old switch and it worked. when you buy the housing the switch comes with it so DO NOT BUY THE SWITCH!!!.

My car starts now at first try. [popcorn][popcorn][popcorn][:)][:)][hihi][headbang][neener][thumb][strongman][grinking]
 

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From your description I knew the housing was the problem but the price difference threw me for a loop! However part number 9L8Z-3511A for under $150 is for an auto trans and AS4Z-3511A is for a manual trans and it is under $50!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
From your description I knew the housing was the problem but the price difference threw me for a loop! However part number 9L8Z-3511A for under $150 is for an auto trans and AS4Z-3511A is for a manual trans and it is under $50!!!!!!
I know!, I have a Manual Transmission!!!!!! [neener].
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am assuming that you can use the manual transmission one but use the old electric switch and save money. The only difference I noticed is that the new housing don't have the lock to lock the steering wheel.
 

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There is a second possible problem and you are almost there. Please read the following that I copied from another post..........

Just wanted to pass this along. I spent the last two days trouble shooting/repairing my daughters car. It was taking multiple times to turn the key to get the starter to energize. At first it happened once in a while. Over time the problem became more frequent. She let it go too long and finally called Dad when the ignition failed to energize the starter at all.

The Focus is a 2008 SE bought new with 77,000 miles on it now. I believe this is the first year for the newer body style. She has a sales route with frequent stops and starts her car 30 to 40 times daily so her starting system gets much more cycle time than a normal car.

First, the starter was removed and checked out OK. The starter relay was switched and OK. The neutral safety switch (is a multi function switch) is located on the side of the trans at the shift linkage lever was not touched except to pull the plug, clean and replace.

The starter switch is located on the left side of the steering column directly behind the turn signal switch, it was replaced $43, still no start with the key. (I learned after to remove the starter switch but keep the wires plugged into it. Turn the key to run, insert a screw driver into the starter switch turn it all the way and the car would start.)

The key tumbler felt Ok but it was removed and taken to a locksmith who verified it was OK. However he informed me that a local repair shop had just had the same problem last week and the shop came to them. The locksmith worked on a new cylinder for the shop but that did not fix their problem either.

Since the repair shop was just down the road as I stopped to talk to them. They told me last week they did everything I did on a Ford Escape and finally had to replace the lock housing assembly that wraps around the steering column just behind the turn signal assembly. The lock housing assembly holds the key cylinder on the right and the starter switch on the left and also helps the steering wheel to lock when removing the key.

For just under $150 I ordered the lock housing assembly (part # 9L8Z-3511-A for auto trans AS4Z-35111A for manual)) from the Ford dealer. It comes with the starter switch installed (now I have three of them)but you must use your old keys and lock cylinder. The replacement lock housing assembly can be installed without removing the steering wheel. Here is how....

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the steering columns, top and bottom cover and the drivers knee panel under the dash.
Unplug the starter switch on the left side of the column.
Remove the security ring from around the key tumbler by unsnapping it from the housing. Electrical is done.

Three small bolts hold the lock housing onto the turn signal assembly. One bolt is on top, one on the bottom left and one on the right/front. You must use your key to unlock the steering column and turn the wheel to the right to allow access the right/front bolt. If you have one a 1/4" drive swivel will help. Remove all three.

Last, on top of the steering column you will notice an aluminum collar that holds the lock housing assembly in place. On the right side of this collar it is bolted to the steering column by only one anti-theft bolt without a head. (The head of the bolt is gone, designed to break off at the factory when installed for anti-theft reasons so normal tools cannot be used to remove it.) Ours had yellow paint on it. Use a small, very sharp chisel to tap the side of the bolt counter clockwise to loosen it and take it out. DO NOT LOSE IT! You cannot get a replacement.

You should be able to lift up the aluminum collar and remove the old housing assembly.

Use your existing keys you must remove the old lock cylinder tumblers from the housing assembly. Put the key into the lock cylinder and turn them one notch only, to the accessory position. On top of the cylinder is a small hole. Put a small torx socket (or nail) in it, push down, pull on the key to remove the tumbler cylinder from the old housing. Put the old tumbler in the new lock housing assembly.

OK, reverse everything and you are done. The hardest part of reassembly was getting the bottom steering column cover back on. I ended cutting a slot on the bottom of it to get it around the steering wheel tilt lever.

I did not find any information on this problem in my internet searches. However, I feel that as these cars age, over time many others will be having the same starting problems caused by the internal moving parts of the linkage within this housing wearing and getting sloppy. The linkage gets loosen up enough that when you turn the key on the right side, the starter switch on the left does not quite make contact to start.

Hope this helps someone else.
Worked for me, took an hour and used a metal chisel. No problem reinstalling the lower steering wheel column cover after I lowered the adjustment lever. It feels good to start the car now!
 

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i have 2010 has same problem now i have to push in and turn key and push down at same time. i checked new cylinder with chipped key and get one guess have to buy second
 

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This repair does NOT involve a new lock cylinder, read more above.
 

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Android Man: can you tell me what type screws are used for that - size, also, standard, metric, torx? Any suggestion how to remove the anti-theft screw on the aluminum housing? Cut a screw slot with a Dremel tool?

Thankss.
 

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starting problem,switch, housingetc?

A few hints to help with previous: 7/32nds socket on 3 screws for housing., If you have remote start on car, start car with remote, then put key into ignition an turn to start. It works for me (depends on wireing for remote) good luck Abe G
 
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