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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #1
Started getting a ticking noise from my motor and was worried was was due to some recent adjustment of my adjustable cam gears. Put them back to normal and was still there. though it was an alternator as the screwdriver to the ear thats where it made the most noise.

took the tension belt off to rotate the alternator to see if I could hear a clearance issue as slow speeds. nothing. but the tension pulley is something else...


That's not suppose to move around like that is it?
 

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Thats What She Said
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10,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
lets See 2.5 years from when I did the rebuild. I think it was around 155k miles and I am around 183k now. Speedo is off so add a few extra thousand on. around 30k mile or less.

Got emails in with C-F-M to see about any kind of warranty or replacement of just the pulley. Its the aluminium billet one they offer. So I should be able to get the bearing replaced if the pulley is not damaged.

Also figure it looks like the only pulley I did not save from my rebuild was the old tension pulley...
 

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Thats What She Said
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10,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well Oreilly's has a Gates Part # 38188 (whole assembly) for $36 that I am going to swing by tonight to pick up... We will see if I can get it installed tonight. should be a simple replacement. this will allow me to work out the bearing replacement on the C-F-M one and then swap that back in.
 

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Thats What She Said
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10,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well I took the pulley apart and here are the results:














The bearing is actually fine. It has smooth movement and is solid. the problem is the way the C-F-M billet aluminum pulley was secured to the bearing. it looks like there eventually was to much play and it actually wallowed out the aluminum pulley.

I have multiple emails into C-F-M to see what they are able and willing to do. This appears to be an apparent failure of assembly / workmanship of how the pulley is both designed and manufactured. Hope to hear back from them during business hours.

Will be going to the part store soon for the gates pulley. It was much easier to remove that I thought it would be so will likely install it tonight. And then make sure that was truly the source of the noise I was hearing.
 

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Old Phart
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First reaction to the initial video was a chuckle, def. found your tick!

Then how it failed was different, slide in & bolt in place didn't last well for a bearing holder.
 

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Nope, need pressfit of some sort there, the bolt washers alone are no way near enough. I'd bet there is supposed to be a not severe pressfit there that can be tapped in and somebody got sloppy on the bore spec and then made them ever so slightly too big a hole. Common when most of your CNC guys now didn't graduate HS. Then the QC guy fell into company lockstep to pass them as OK too.
 

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Thats What She Said
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10,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
First reaction to the initial video was a chuckle, def. found your tick!

Then how it failed was different, slide in & bolt in place didn't last well for a bearing holder.
Ha, I did not even make the association until you mentioned it.

Nope, need pressfit of some sort there, the bolt washers alone are no way near enough. I'd bet there is supposed to be a not severe pressfit there that can be tapped in and somebody got sloppy on the bore spec and then made them ever so slightly too big a hole. Common when most of your CNC guys now didn't graduate HS. Then the QC guy fell into company lockstep to pass them as OK too.
Yea, I am not sure on how the build it. And I don't want to makw to many presumptions. But I would leave it as a current caution to those who may have bought the C-F-M billet idler to give it a check.

It should be press fit, with no need for the screws...

Edit: I looked up my records I had 160,871 miles on the odometer when the motor fired up again. The audible noise occurred between 188,765 (replaced it at this mileage) and 188,537 (last fill up). So around 28k miles were on this pulley. Reused the tensioner and just got a new pulley. tensioner works great still as it was a PITA to get the belt back on. I need to some of the low clearance socket/wrench sets, that would have helped.
 

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lets See 2.5 years from when I did the rebuild. I think it was around 155k miles and I am around 183k now. Speedo is off so add a few extra thousand on. around 30k mile or less.

Got emails in with C-F-M to see about any kind of warranty or replacement of just the pulley. Its the aluminium billet one they offer. So I should be able to get the bearing replaced if the pulley is not damaged.

Also figure it looks like the only pulley I did not save from my rebuild was the old tension pulley...
@magus2727 thanks for contacting us as well. We have updated the pulley with the following:

  • 7075 aluminum instead of 6061
  • bearing is now a press fit in addition to bolts.
We've addressed this issue and just about everyone has been taken care of. I'll be emailing you as well.

We'll get a replacement sent out to you at no charge. Feel free to contact me via email, PM or phone call.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Thats What She Said
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10,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Love the awesome customer service. Less than 14 hour turn around time and that's only because it was after hours.

C-F-M is taking care of me. Now I just have to battle putting the belt back on.

Looks like the old design was done by a 3rd party and that is no longer the current design as stated.

Sold me on buying more items from C-F-M.

And now I have a cool paper weight I can use at work.
 

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Take the proper boxed end wrench for the pulley center bolt and then link it to another using the open end, obviously the closed end goes on bolt. Take another boxed in around 3/4" or 18 or 19 mm. or so and using the boxed end, hook that around the open end of the other to make a double length extended wrench. The key there is getting the boxed loop of 2nd wrench of a correct size to hook onto the open end of the other and then locked on the longer open end to lock solid when lifted up as a cheater bar type lever. Easiest to put them together off car then holding to keep them together fit to the car. Done right there is just enough space for the extended end to fit between other parts to get a pretty good amount of swing to lift the tensioner pulley.

Two belt moves- one you fish belt in from the top to then drop on ground and then thread the pathway that can be done from top of car pass side. Let the leftover slack to drop under car. Then go under car pass side with wheel removed and any plastic engine cover too and thread the rest of the belt up, either leaving the belt off tensioner or better, the crank pulley so belt is already threaded around tensioner. The excess around crank can then be easily moved around the pulley when you lift up on the double extended wrench, I often can thread up the thing and tension it in 30 seconds or even less. The entire belt off to threaded up and tensioned procedure in 2 minutes or less if wheel already off. The last one I did even lifted tensioner arm by HAND with no extended wrench, the tensioner was that loose. Pretty unreal that one; car still runs fine like that though.

Way too much time to tell it, it goes so fast doing it though that at the parts store doing it I was freaking people out bigtime.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #13
Yea i think I can do it faster the next time. Problem was the closed end would keep coming off when trying to ratchet it to the far back position to have the movement forward. So I either could not keep the wrench on or I would not have the movement space needed to pull it up enough. I did not move anything out of the way either though. I co u LDS have moved the coolant bottle and had more room.

I will try those trick next time.
 

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Taciturn. Your turn.
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The first time I encountered having to put the belt back I had the headlight out for some reason. After I took a break from frustration and stepped back I realized I there was a straight path to the tensioner through the headlight hole. I put my arm through the hole with the wrench and leaned back, I had enough stretch with my other arm to slip the belt on the PS pump. Been doing it like that ever since.
 
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