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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2000 Focus 2.0 - Just cleaned the valve but it wasn't dirty. Some varnish and some carbon in the tunnel where the spring goes. It's drying, but now thinking that the electrical component might be bad. If I need a new IAC, what is a reliable part? Amazon has a Walker for $55.95, which is much lower in price than those in the $143 - $175 range (original Ford parts).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, thanks. I need a valve with the vent, but they may have that one, too. Have read that some members experienced flaring to 6,000 rpms. Wouldn't like that at all.
Note: forgot to mention that the cel was 1504.
 

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You won't see what the IAC vacuum boost does as it simply steadies the pintle or helps it to move easier while lowering having to stroke the solenoid so much in one direction. Vacuum boost was later dumped to simply add another correct pressure spring to do the same thing with less parts to add durability. The vent is full of material to filter any air that flows backwards thru the vacuum leak until the diaphragm settles to seal off the port. Look at the inside of an EGR vacuum regulator on the same car and the same contruction with a big filter. Both devices work close to the same way.

Can't see how losing pure idle forces an expensive tow, I've driven a Focus that would not idle at all for a month until I got around to fixing it, you simply hold the throttle pedal down a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
She's purring again. Will hold off buying a replacement for now.

While pulling out of a parking lot into a primary street - speed limit 60mph - the cel came on, she stuttered, and I gave her more gas.The motor died instantly, with a loud noise that I've never heard or felt before, like your entire drive train had dropped to the ground. Since I was in a bad location, I tried to start and go, rapidly, but the same thing happened again.

That's when I called for a tow truck.
 

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Did read threads going back to 2009. Very good information that I used to remove the IAC
Some people tried and failed. I got mine done, but it was no fun. If yours was easy, you should write it up to help others.


She's purring again. Will hold off buying a replacement for now.
You reinstalled the old IAC? Many of Its internal parts are inaccessible, cleaning can't reach them.


While pulling out of a parking lot into a primary street - speed limit 60mph - the cel came on, she stuttered, and I gave her more gas.The motor died instantly, with a loud noise that I've never heard or felt before, like your entire drive train had dropped to the ground.
That sounds like a coil pack going bad, causing severe misfires. Easy to replace.

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You could be right about the coil pack going bad, but I had to deal with the 1504 code, as it was the only code thrown.

Easy? Ha!Ha! To begin, I have very few tools. Over the years, many tools were loaned and not returned. I had a 3/8" socket set (incomplete), some open end wrenches, miscellaneous screwdrivers, and one jack stand. Nothing electrically powered.

Used a small crescent to remove the front screw, as I had no luck maneuvering the large socket wrench. Ordered a stubby 1/4' socket w/extension fron Amazon. It came the following afternoon. Removed the IAC with an 8mm socket.

The part was very clean. Actually looked almost new to me. I held the part upright with the holes at the bottom, and sprayed some carb cleaner. There was some varnish. Sprayed into the little tunnel and some carbon flowed out. I wiped it, then let the part dry.

Then the fun began. I had pulled the IAC out from the bottom, and now had to connect the wiring with one hand. I propped the IAC against something, and used my thumb and index finger to squeeze the parts together. Still working with only one hand, I dropped the screw about a dozen times. Thought that the engine had eaten it once, but found it 20 minutes later. Took about 6 hours to install the front screw.

I lined up the IAC in what I believed to be its correct position. No luck at first with the back screw, because when moving the IAC by hand I always moved it too far. Took the metal handle from the floor jack and tapped the IAC. On the 2nd tap it was lined up perfectly and I set the screw.

After connecting the battery cable I expected the start to be rough, initially, but the motor just purred.

Next time I will find the money to let a shop handle this.
 

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5 minutes to change an IAC using a rachet 8 mm. wrench and custom paper gasket with smaller bolt holes to then hold the bolts in place for you. Not front and rear bolts, rather top and bottom and leave bottom out while getting top started then before pulling it up all the way get the bottom one started then pull up both together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just to update -

Cleaning my IAC had little effect, which I had suspected, because it wasn't very dirty. The car ran fine every day, but after a short while, the CEL would come on. I drove it this way until I located a company that I trusted to sell me a non-counterfeit Ford part, at a price that I thought was reasonable - $89 plus a small shipping charge ($4.89). Sure, there are much cheaper parts out there, but at my age (80) I only wanted to do this one last time.

It arrived in a bona fide Motorcraft box (the style from 2017 forward). I was happy to pay the price because I believed that I wouldn't have any more problems, and I haven't to date. I've put 213K on this motor, and it will probably "outlive" me. Only been in the shop 3X: fuel pump and alternator (twice). I don't count the two ignition lock rebuilds, as a mobile locksmith came to me.
 

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The ignition lock rebuild can be done using no new parts and about 30 seconds of work once the cylinder is out and at zero cost. Both my cars done years ago and still using same lock cylinders.
 
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