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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my front struts and salvaged my old springs because why not. Naturally I think I jacked up my tie rod end because the steering keeps making that infernal clunking/clicking noise on the driver's side when I turn the wheel that way. What do you guys think, sounds like tie rod ends? That is the only suspicious noise I've been hearing so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also gonna add, my sway bar links are jacked and will be replaced as soon as I have the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both moving and whole turning the wheel while parked. The tie rod ends are in need of replacement and the caliper on that side is MIA and will be replaced soon.
 

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CV joint only if you can turn steering max in that direction and then drive at idle and REPEAT click, click, click, over and over. A single clunk more like ball joint rocking as car weight changes on a turn or just sitting still as wheel turned to limit. Or LCA bushing dead. Ties are generally loose but really make no noise usually. Jack up tire in air and grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and yank it both ways, any loose there is ties.

Driver side tie easy enough, stand outside car and turn steering wheel ever so slightly, the smaller an amount the better. Watch tire CLOSELY while doing it. The tire must move if you so even as breathe on the wheel to move it, any lag there says something is loose. Harder to do the pass side though. Need second person and tell him to move steering 1/8" and show him how small that amount is then watch pass side tire while he does it. I use a coat hanger pointer as a zero marker when I have the wife do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
inner or outer what?
I was asking if you think it is the inner or outer CV joint but it's more likely to be the outer. Either way, I'd probably just replace the CV axle period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
CV joint only if you can turn steering max in that direction and then drive at idle and REPEAT click, click, click, over and over. A single clunk more like ball joint rocking as car weight changes on a turn or just sitting still as wheel turned to limit. Or LCA bushing dead. Ties are generally loose but really make no noise usually. Jack up tire in air and grab tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and yank it both ways, any loose there is ties.

Driver side tie easy enough, stand outside car and turn steering wheel ever so slightly, the smaller an amount the better. Watch tire CLOSELY while doing it. The tire must move if you so even as breathe on the wheel to move it, any lag there says something is loose. Harder to do the pass side though. Need second person and tell him to move steering 1/8" and show him how small that amount is then watch pass side tire while he does it. I use a coat hanger pointer as a zero marker when I have the wife do it.
The wheel and tire will move with the slightest tap of the steering wheel in idle, however, if I take the wheel and move it to it's limit, I hear the click, one click. If I shake the wheel about 1/8th of the way in either direction (I shake the wheel left and right) I hear it click every time past a certain point and feel the vibration under my foot near the pedals.
 

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One click is generally not a CV joint. Find a parking lot and turn slow circles at idle in it and put steering on the limit both ways and then just back off lightly and then slowly explore the realm of extreme travel while still turning circles. If bad it WILL repeat click and a thousand times if you stay at that one steering position where you found it. Yes, a simple steering move could show that click at rest but the turn test is what weeds CV out there.

The constant usual direction of straight forward wears the CV ball grooves more in the straight ahead position, then when you turn, at some point that wear groove then drops off to meet the rest of the normal machined groove that was on the new part and never wore because it hardly gets used. The drop off point is sudden since angles change and produces the click or snap that occurs there as the ball snaps forcibly from one groove into the other as long as you have the wheel turned to pick that shift point up.

What I describe is front wheel turning rotational induced, you describe what could easily be ball joint, dead LCA bushing, rack mount issue or ties. Others too. Vibration felt under foot could be the steering shaft u-joint or rack. I even saw a Mustang II tear the front subframe loose from the rest of unibody once to do that, I felt the flex and snap of the frame member moving around under my foot. Had to rivet the thing back together for like 2 feet to stop it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One click is generally not a CV joint. Find a parking lot and turn slow circles at idle in it and put steering on the limit both ways and then just back off lightly and then slowly explore the realm of extreme travel while still turning circles. If bad it WILL repeat click and a thousand times if you stay at that one steering position where you found it. Yes, a simple steering move could show that click at rest but the turn test is what weeds CV out there.

The constant usual direction of straight forward wears the CV ball grooves more in the straight ahead position, then when you turn, at some point that wear groove then drops off to meet the rest of the normal machined groove that was on the new part and never wore because it hardly gets used. The drop off point is sudden since angles change and produces the click or snap that occurs there as the ball snaps forcibly from one groove into the other as long as you have the wheel turned to pick that shift point up.

What I describe is front wheel turning rotational induced, you describe what could easily be ball joint, dead LCA bushing, rack mount issue or ties. Others too. Vibration felt under foot could be the steering shaft u-joint or rack. I even saw a Mustang II tear the front subframe loose from the rest of unibody once to do that, I felt the flex and snap of the frame member moving around under my foot. Had to rivet the thing back together for like 2 feet to stop it.
I took the wheel off and taking the weight off of it relieves the clunking during steering unless I put more force into turning the wheel back and forth (jerking it right and left of dead center). I heard the popping sound from the strut mount which is brand new, but it sounds more like it is coming from the area of the LCA and typically the tire does not his the bumper unless turned in a bad direction and/or hits rough road.

The strut, however, seems to be holding up its end of the bargain. I am starting to seriously suspect that it is the LCA/ball joint as taking the wheel off this time around (after having hit a rough grade the other night and hearing the popping sound for the first time, final nail in the coffin, maybe?) as the car has no other symptoms.

I'm going to replace the LCA (which comes with the ball joint as an assembly from Autozone) and I am going to replace the sway bar end link because that is obviously screwed up (but probably not a major contributor to the sound and issues I have been having), because it feels like something is loose or rattling in that area. I'll probably replace the strut mount since I'll have to drop the control arm anyway and still have the spring compressors on hand. I'm going to see if that fixes it tomorrow.
 
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