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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

This weekend I am working in my car in my friend's house. Today we have changed the fuel filter, the PCV valve, the cabin air filter, PCV air filter, air filter and checked the pressure of the A/C system. I need quick answers, because we are going to be here only till Sunday, thank you guys!

TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS

I am servicing my transmission this time. We tried to take off the cooler lines and it was impossible. We removed the clamps, moving them forward, but the rubber hose doesn't come off the metal part. We tried this for 2 hours, using every sort of thing: putty kniffes, flat screwdrivers, WD40...
It seems that the car is pretty corroded under the hood, ok it is San Diego, and I would say the rubber is now welded with the metal. We thought about cutting the lines, but we don't think we will be able to reuse them. How much would be to get new ones and what are the part names?

A/C PROBLEMS

My A/C is not working. After two hours of sweaty journey to his house, we wanted to start fixing it. I thought it was going to be a refilling issue, but no! I have an Interdinamics kit that comes with the pressure gauge. We hooked it to the low pressure port in the compressor, and did not read anything with A/C working at maximum.
So then we find out that the compressor does not start working, then we found out that the fan either. As far as I know if the fan doesn't start, neither the compressor. So we thought it could be an electrical problem. We have checked every fuse and one relay out of two. We used a 12V external battery and a multimeter for this. The point is that the other relay was stuck in there (like everything in the car) and when using pliers to remove it, the plastic box came off but the relay stayed in place.

Now, we don't know what to do to get it outside. What else can we check? some with more experience in A/C systems?

WASHER

I need to know what's the washer size of the drain plug for changing it with the oil.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

I discovered a hole in my cat. I don't think that's supposed to be there. What can be the implications in my car. could be this provoking my P0171 engine code? any solution (maybe welding it or putting some sort of cold welding or glue)?

BATTERY ISSUES
I found out that my battery has 12.37 volts. I was told in Kragen that my battery was almost dying and my alternator was ok. The point is that I think the tension is good enough for some more time. The terminal are corroded, so I think their tester didn't read good values. I bought them a new one, but now I am wondering if the would refund me the money, what do you think?
What happens when I unplug the battery for long time. Does it reset the ECU? is there any procedure to adjust it again?

This is all, by the way the cabin air filter was never put in place. I found the Ford plastic piece inside, [:)][:)][:)][:)]!

THANKS!
 

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Oil Cooler Lines Disconnect Tool - can find them at most auto parts stores, 39960 is the oreilly parts #

"I need to know what's the washer size of the drain plug for changing it with the oil."
There should not be a washer with the drain plug. If there is then when previously changing the oil someone
rounded the bolt off and had to destroy the plug to get it out then just used a bolt and washer to plug it again.

Where at on the cat is the hole?

P0171 is the maf I believe. Have you tried cleaning it?
 

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Hi everyone,

This weekend I am working in my car in my friend's house. Today we have changed the fuel filter, the PCV valve, the cabin air filter, PCV air filter, air filter and checked the pressure of the A/C system. I need quick answers, because we are going to be here only till Sunday, thank you guys!

TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS

I am servicing my transmission this time. We tried to take off the cooler lines and it was impossible. We removed the clamps, moving them forward, but the rubber hose doesn't come off the metal part. We tried this for 2 hours, using every sort of thing: putty kniffes, flat screwdrivers, WD40...
It seems that the car is pretty corroded under the hood, ok it is San Diego, and I would say the rubber is now welded with the metal. We thought about cutting the lines, but we don't think we will be able to reuse them. How much would be to get new ones and what are the part names?

A/C PROBLEMS

My A/C is not working. After two hours of sweaty journey to his house, we wanted to start fixing it. I thought it was going to be a refilling issue, but no! I have an Interdinamics kit that comes with the pressure gauge. We hooked it to the low pressure port in the compressor, and did not read anything with A/C working at maximum.
So then we find out that the compressor does not start working, then we found out that the fan either. As far as I know if the fan doesn't start, neither the compressor. So we thought it could be an electrical problem. We have checked every fuse and one relay out of two. We used a 12V external battery and a multimeter for this. The point is that the other relay was stuck in there (like everything in the car) and when using pliers to remove it, the plastic box came off but the relay stayed in place.

Now, we don't know what to do to get it outside. What else can we check? some with more experience in A/C systems?

WASHER

I need to know what's the washer size of the drain plug for changing it with the oil.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

I discovered a hole in my cat. I don't think that's supposed to be there. What can be the implications in my car. could be this provoking my P0171 engine code? any solution (maybe welding it or putting some sort of cold welding or glue)?

BATTERY ISSUES
I found out that my battery has 12.37 volts. I was told in Kragen that my battery was almost dying and my alternator was ok. The point is that I think the tension is good enough for some more time. The terminal are corroded, so I think their tester didn't read good values. I bought them a new one, but now I am wondering if the would refund me the money, what do you think?
What happens when I unplug the battery for long time. Does it reset the ECU? is there any procedure to adjust it again?

This is all, by the way the cabin air filter was never put in place. I found the Ford plastic piece inside, [:)][:)][:)][:)]!

THANKS!
You need to you use a heat gun to heat the rubber hose to make it expand, then this would make it easier to pull the hose out.

I do not think that you need a washer for the drain bolt. The bolt itself has a plastic like bushing for sealing. If it leaks, then I suggest getting a new one from the dealer.

I do not have any experience with AC system so I can't help you on that. But, someone in the forum will.[:)]

The catalytic converter should not have any type of hole in it so I suggest weld it shut.

Did you buy a new battery or terminal? IMO, 12.37V is good charge when the car is not running. You can clean the terminals using water or soft drink like a Coke and use a brush to brush away corrosion. Make sure tighten up the bolts for the terminals. When you unplug the battery for at least 15 minutes the ECU will reset and clear the CEL.

I think the car never come with factory cabin filter so they put that plastic piece in place of a filter. You can remove that piece and put the filter in place.
 

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Read this
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177747

"What Are Specified Major Emission Control Components?

There are three specified major emission control components,
covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995
and newer vehicles:

* Catalytic converters.

* The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).

* The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD)."

Try covering your cat under that!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks TNT13,

I think I am going to use a pump in the dipstick, instead of buying a new tool. The P0171 is engine too lean, I think the MAF is P0170, but anyways today I am cleaning it just in case.

Ok, so no washers. Thanks briandg510 for the information, I think I am going to make some returns, I bought new terminals, but I will not use them if I can clean these, they are in pretty bad shape.

Thanks malim, I knew that but unfortunately I am out of warranty. My car is 7 years old and has 94.000 miles. Hopefully the hole, which is located at the end of the cat, doesn't mean the cat is not working. It seems that a mini rock hit it.

Ok, thank you all, I hope somebody can shed some light troubleshooting the A/C, because I am doing all I know. I am going back to work on the car now.
 

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If you just cut the rubber hoses AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE COOLER you should have plenty of hose left to reinstall it on the cooler. Use a razor blade to cut a slit in the rubber thats left on the cooler and peel it off. Use the original clamp and reinsall your now one inch shorter cooler hose.

When a properly charged ac system is not on there should be pressure on the low and high side. The pressures stabilize and read about ambient temperature, i.e. if it is 70 degrees outside pressure on the high and low side will be about 70 psi. Fun little fact. If you have nothing there ain't no freon. The fan will not come on if the pressure contacts aren't closed from the full charge. To make doubly sure your pressure checker thingy is working just use a pocket screw driver and poke that ball in the schrader valve. You know, like your letting air out of a tire. If nothing happens, no charge. If there is a charge, trust me, you'll know. Likely leak sources: AC compressor manifold line getting bent by parking to close to curb. AC compressor front shaft seal. Low side line going into accumulator (I've seen that pressure switch on that line leak terrible.)

Get a new drain plug at the dealer.

Hole in the converter is odd. Never seen that one. I've seen EGR tubes bust on SPI motors. What engine do you have? SPI or Zetec. P0171 could be a whole lot of things. MAF, vacuum leak, O2 sensor. With the car running listen for a hiss. If you can hear one feel around for the source. You can also pour water over all the vacuum lines and tubes. Pay special attention to any hose or nipple related to the pcv valve. If you hear a noise like water sucking through a straw, bingo. I've also seen the connection at the intake manifold for the brake booster leak. Lean codes should not be taken with a grain of salt. Your car will run better and decrease combustion temps when its running stoic.

Your battery can have good voltage but low cold cranking amps. Clean the cable ends with a cup of hot water. Stick the end in and swish it around. You'll be amazed. Touch it up with sandpaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you the Duff,

We are going to use a pump or heat them up, I want to avoid cutting them although as you say they could read.

Tomorrow I will recheck the A/C system as you say, but my pressure thing works as far as I know. When I press the trigger starts reading full in the gauge, but till I press it there is no read. I don't have a high pressure line to check both: low and high.
I can not check leaks without any dyed R134a, right? The systems seems to be ok, no bends.

I am really trying to fix the code. Thanks for the information about how to check vacuum leaks, we will be doing it tomorrow too.

I will clean the battery terminals and the MAF sensor tomorrow, change the oil the oil filter and we will be ready to go, back and running.

Today we have changed the timing belt, the tensioner, checked the accessory belt (we didn't have to replace it) and its tensioner. We have changed the sparkplugs and the plug wires.

Another exhausting day, tomorrow more!
 
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