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I'm actually selling it, but what I want to know is what I need to do to put in my 2.0? Can it just be a straight swap or is it more involved like changing pistons, etc.? I asked this on Focaljet and didn't get a real response.

Thanks,
Trav-E
 

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You can drop it right on, it will flow very slightly better in stock form and with a lot of porting it's the superior of the 2 heads.
 

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so the D23 head will slide right on the D20? w/o any complications?
 

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yeah
 

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See, that's the thing. There isn't any reason to swap the head unless you are going to get it ported by a professional.
 

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Well you could get in on Walter's group buy for Crane cams and then take your time installing the cams, springs, etc. The you could drop it onto your car when it's all ready.
 

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Trav-E2.0 said:
What would be the procedure? Like, would I need anything from a 2.3L?
D20 & D23 rods and pistons are the same. Typical to the Ford engine engineering formula, the blocks have different deck heights to make up for the difference between the cranks. There's also a balance shaft in the D23 block, but it's no wonder Ford has monetary issues when so much could be saved by producing ONE block and changing pistons or rods between the two versions.

Standard head removal supplies should do the trick. See your local Ford dealer or favorite Ford parts supplier- parts places like Autozone, Advance, etc don't seem to have parts for these motors. You'll need a head gasket, head bolts, and intake manifold gasket. The exhaust manifold gasket wouldn't be a bad idea, but those can usually be used more than once if not damaged when removed. Timing cover seal will have to be replaced, you'll need an 8mmx1.0 pitch bolt at least 25mm long to hold the flywheel at TDC, and a timing tool (Ford dealer- $20) to line the cams up at TDC. Also have some blue and black RTV handy just in case you might want to re-use gaskets like the thermostat housing gasket. It goes without saying that an oil change and coolant replacement will be needed for this job.

That's about all I can think of without having done the job yet myself. I had considered something like that, but some sources have said that the D20 and D23 heads are identical- however you CA folks are stuck with D23E and D20E parts, and so the D23E has superior flow.

If it were me, I'd call around and find a machine shop nearby to plane the head and gain a couple of compression points. They could also check the head for cracks. I don't know how you got the head- but that might be a good thing to consider depending on where the head came from. If you do such, then instead of head bolts you might want to consider the ARP studs which will make up for the difference in height caused by planing. The stock head bolts are designed to bottom out in the block so if you take some material off the head- you'd need washers or shims to use bolts.

Heads are often referred to as "bolt-on" parts, but as you can see- it's not really a simple bolt on.
 

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The rods and pistons are different, the deck height is different on the block, and the head is a very slightly different casting.
 

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The 2.0 rods are shorter and the pistons aren't valve reliefed.
 

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Ah. Thus the higher compression?

Aero_student, any word on what aggressively tuned crane stg Is would gain on a d20 with say, around my mods (mm intake, cossie header, mbrp exhaust, 91 octane tune, etc)...ballpark that is....?
 
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