After gettin towed and changing the oil car drove alright for a few days but now rpms are staying high while driving and i have two error codes. Ill post those up in a bit but anyone have any advice i need to know about this situation?
yeah i have a CAI, usually gives me no problem in the rain but there was a flooded area that i didnt see untill it was too late. but the error codes are
P1121 "Throttle Possition sensor A Inconsistant with MAF/MAP sensor (see P0068)"
Yep, if you hydrolock the engine is done. It probably is the MAF, perhaps it got wet and you know electronics and water don't get along very well. Try cleaning the maf first, if it doesn't work then I'd try to change it.
You can hydro-lock and bend one rod only slightly.....enough to make knocking noises, but still keep running. It only takes a little water to do that. I replaced several engines that were still running after a water incident....just noisy.
I hate to hear about these sorts of problems, because so many people here advocate a CAI setup, rather than an SRI. Not me.....
Thanks for moving the thread to the right section, Ill have to double check on the knocking noise, but i hope the rods arnt bent.. I found a guide how to clean the maf which ill do as soon as i can but i dont know how to replace the TPS (throttle possistion sensor?)
If you've still got a relatively smooth running engine with no ugly noises, then the basic engine is probably OK. The TPS is probably not the issue here, the MAF harness connector has been soaked and if you're lucky you may just have to dry everything off, or if you're unlucky the MAF (the "hotwire" element) itself may have been "quenched" by the water and is toast. The error code is because of a "disagreement" between the signals that the ECM is getting from the MAF and and the TPS (one of them makes no sense). Your ALT. load code has also got to be related to water contamination somewhere.
Any water (and it wasn't much if the engine is running) that MAY have gotten into the engine is long gone (you stated that you'd changed the oil and the engine has been running.......it's been drained and/or vaporized). The question is have you got all the moisture out of the electronics in the engine bay? Maybe not, from the sound of it. Is the battery charge light out when the engine is running? Under load can you accelerate the engine above about 3000 RPM? With your aftermarket intake is the MAF still located high up in the engine compartment, like the stock one is? The SES light is still ON but not flashing?
Well right now my RPMs are kicking high and the car wont idle properly,and gives me those two error codes. the MAF is still high up but water may most likely did do some harm. Battery seems to be okay as far as i can tell.
Okay so i fired up my car, RPMs were unsteady untill the engine warmed up (3 to 5k ) and i listened to the engine and im thinking i may have bent a rod.. since the engine doesn't sound right to me. So i was wondering worst case scenerio i did bend a rod, how could i replace it? and would it be as simple as just replacing it or does anything else need to be done?
One way to tell is to get a mechanic's stethoscope. Harbor freight has them cheap, Sears hardware usually has them. Then with the engine idling, run the probe from the belt end to the rear, slowly. It's best to touch the block, maybe from underneath. If you do have a bent rod, you can hear the change in the noise as you pass the suspect rod. The noise will increase....usually a knocking sound.
The other way is to do a compression test on each cylinder.....the one with the bad rod will usually measure lower.
Another way is to monitor RPM drop as you disable each cylinder in turn (pull a plug wire). The RPM drop will be less when to disable the bad cylinder.
Don't take anybody's guess on this, unless you trust the guy. Fixing a bent rod is not cheap.