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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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So as you can see in the picture, I wasn’t using my brain and I broke all three of the studs to where my mount is supposed to be mounted on. How did I manage to break them? Well first of all it was a little tough to take the nuts off so I had to use a breaker bar. But why was is so hard and took me 10 minutes to take some nuts off some studs/threads. Well I forgot all about lefty loosey and righty tighty and instead of loosening the nut I was making tighter and tighter and I broke all 3 of the studs and now I have no where to mount the engine mount because there’s no studs. So I need someone with knowledge and wisdom to help me solve this problem. How do I replace the studs? Does someone know if the studs are part of the vehicle’s frame or can I simple take them out and replace them? I have a Focus 2003 with the zetec engine. I need you’re help asap I can’t drive my car without first fixing that. Sorry for being so dumb smh.

UPDATE: I hope I can help future people. This is very doable. At first I used a chisel and with the hammer tried making it rotate left and come out but that wasn’t really progressive. So I had the engine supported on a jack all day until I had someone come over take a look and he welded tiny pieces of metal on top of the broken bolt that was in my car. But before that we had to make sure we covered the engine and battery with wet cardboard from the sparks. Then after it he welded the tiny pieces of metal and when the broken bolt was big enough to hold on to with pliers, he simply twisted it out. I went to the auto parts store and bought new bolts and washer and with no problem finally was able to mount the engine mount and I can finallydrive my car again. Thank for the help and support. And always remember and never forget. LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY
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That total lack of !STOP! usually works against you far more once you have to fix the damage. You're supposed to be smart enough to question why one broke, not wait until all of them are.

Beyond belief. Fixable but not by you, you will only make it worse. You do NOT have the skills needed. Because removing broken bolts requires LOTS of stopping before you break things worse. You don't have a prayer there.

You can't even figure out holding the other piece (pic #2) that you are dealing with bolts not studs. The bolts are just that, bolts, but you are asking for it going further. They may simply thread back out depending on the shearpoint but if not you just made it 10X worse than it is now.

I suggest (strongly) you give it over to someone who can do that work.
 

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They are just bolts and you just snapped the heads off, is just the theaded shank remaining, should be fairly easy to remove if they are not seized, the following steps should be easy to acomplish if you have the mechanical skills, if not find help, remove the mount assy, drill down the center of broken bolts and easy out, if they are not seized the drill bit should spin them out, a reverse drill bit could possibly back them out, you might get real lucky and spin them out with a strong magnet, IAC be carefull and support engine, etc.

This video is the normal mount removal/install

Screw extractor
 

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You are assuming a lot from somebody who couldn't even remove a bolt. When I was in parts I found out that most of the planet is absolutely incompetent at drilling a simple fairly centered hole in a hardened bolt. Do a hundred or so like I used to on printing presses with broken parts and you figure that out. Most ezouts are doomed to break right off the bat, it's the brain behind them that is commonly broken. Most never drill a correct size hole to allow the ezout to be stronger as well as get mechanical advantage on the bolt remains without swedging it in much tighter, a delicate choice that is usually botched.

So most of the ezout kits as well as any specialty reverse tools to remove stripped wheel lugs and the like are always returned, usually damaged and demanding money back as they (the tool not the user) are defective but usually wrong.

I'd guess at 7 out of 10 are fails. Look at pic #2, that bolt has severely distorted threads showing it warped all over the place before breaking, I bet that one won't be easily spinning backwards back out. It was not a clean break.
 

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First ignore the old man he seems to think being rude to people is helpful.


We all have bad days and make mistakes.


The person who was actually trying to help you posted 2 good videos. I will also post a video of one of my favorite YouTubers who does reviews and he recently did reviews on bolt extractors.
One thing I will add when removing a motor mount apply a little bit of pressure to the engine with a jack. Use a piece of wood or rubber something between the jack and the oil pan. Use just enough pressure to take the weight off the mount just a little bit.

Good luck.



Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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You do realize that the ezout collection in post #3 pic is for LEFT handed bolts and will not work here right? Or the pic is flipped.
 

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You do realize that the ezout collection in post #3 pic is for LEFT handed bolts and will not work here right? Or the pic is flipped.
The information given is a general PSA/reference to ilustrate how the process works, I clearly stated "if you have the mechanical skills", some individuals lack the mechanical skills, some individuals lack the reading skills and some individuals lack the social skills !!.
We can express or opinion without being super critical and/offensive, the OP posted/admitted his wrongdoing and came here for help. Not a lecture.

Off the soapbox :censored:
 

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Try taking a punch at about a 45 degree angle and see if the broken bolt will turn. Punch slightly off the center of the bolt (lefty loosey). Don't punch near the threads as that could cause the bolt to lock in place more than it already is. Once the broken bolt is out enough, you can use pliers from there.
 

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Most likely a 10 x 30mm hardened bolt + large washer would work, fairly common, Ford oem P/N W706408-S437 about $2.50 USD ea. Good luck !!
 

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Re: post #7, not slamming the post at all and I agree. Just that the part picced there will NOT work. The problem with all of this is that the OP has a very good chance of messing the work up.

You can find the bolts at any Ace hardware store and much cheaper.

Post #8, a 3/8" flat chisel and an even shallower angle work better. The edge must be fresh and super sharp with a sharp perpendicular drop-off on the end to create a dig in point. The point of contact should be just outboard of the center of the bolt body, a turned up thread edge shear point may work better if it exists. I've pulled countless sheared parts doing that before. The flat chisel has more dig in area to not shear material off when the point of a round punch comes loose. The flatter an angle you can start the better, once you have locked a trench in the part and part begins to move you go more and more vertical with your impacts until you hit 45 degrees. I often begin around 15 or so, it lowers the part deforming to lock in place. Very light taps at first too. You establish how loose the part is to stop quick if it stays locked in place.

Probably not going to be able to get down far enough to do that anyway at least on the bolt most further back and low. No room.

I've never paid attention but thinking the bottom two bolts go into frame channel and cannot be reached underneath, the upper one may be accessible with plastic inner fender removed to get at it from below.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That total lack of !STOP! usually works against you far more once you have to fix the damage. You're supposed to be smart enough to question why one broke, not wait until all of them are.

Beyond belief. Fixable but not by you, you will only make it worse. You do NOT have the skills needed. Because removing broken bolts requires LOTS of stopping before you break things worse. You don't have a prayer there.

You can't even figure out holding the other piece (pic #2) that you are dealing with bolts not studs. The bolts are just that, bolts, but you are asking for it going further. They may simply thread back out depending on the shearpoint but if not you just made it 10X worse than it is now.

I suggest (strongly) you give it over to someone who can do that work.
Update. I found someone who welding metal on top of the broken bolts and twisted them out of the nuts that were welded onto the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
They are just bolts and you just snapped the heads off, is just the theaded shank remaining, should be fairly easy to remove if they are not seized, the following steps should be easy to acomplish if you have the mechanical skills, if not find help, remove the mount assy, drill down the center of broken bolts and easy out, if they are not seized the drill bit should spin them out, a reverse drill bit could possibly back them out, you might get real lucky and spin them out with a strong magnet, IAC be carefull and support engine, etc.

This video is the normal mount removal/install

Screw extractor
Thank you. I found someone who welding metal on top of the broken bolts and twisted them out of the nuts that were welded onto the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First ignore the old man he seems to think being rude to people is helpful.


We all have bad days and make mistakes.


The person who was actually trying to help you posted 2 good videos. I will also post a video of one of my favorite YouTubers who does reviews and he recently did reviews on bolt extractors.
One thing I will add when removing a motor mount apply a little bit of pressure to the engine with a jack. Use a piece of wood or rubber something between the jack and the oil pan. Use just enough pressure to take the weight off the mount just a little bit.

Good luck.



Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Thank you! I did have a jack supporting the engine for the whole day until I found a welder who took out the bolts. He did it fairly quick and he just add metal on top of the broken bolts and twisted them out. I replaced it with new ones and now I can finally drive my car
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Try taking a punch at about a 45 degree angle and see if the broken bolt will turn. Punch slightly off the center of the bolt (lefty loosey). Don't punch near the threads as that could cause the bolt to lock in place more than it already is. Once the broken bolt is out enough, you can use pliers from there.
Yes! I used a chisel at first but it barley lifted the bolt by a millimeter. I got someone who welds to eventually take out the broken bolt and fixed it
 

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Thank you. I found someone who welding metal on top of the broken bolts and twisted them out of the nuts that were welded onto the car.
Great idea for the bolt shank removal, just got to be carefull with welding sparks around engine and battery, cover with wet towels, etc.(PSA), IAC good to hear your back on the road (y):cool:
 

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Thank you! I did have a jack supporting the engine for the whole day until I found a welder who took out the bolts. He did it fairly quick and he just add metal on top of the broken bolts and twisted them out. I replaced it with new ones and now I can finally drive my car
(y)

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #17
View attachment 306510 View attachment 306511 View attachment 306513 View attachment 306510 View attachment 306511 View attachment 306513 View attachment 306514

So as you can see in the picture, I wasn’t using my brain and I broke all three of the studs to where my mount is supposed to be mounted on. How did I manage to break them? Well first of all it was a little tough to take the nuts off so I had to use a breaker bar. But why was is so hard and took me 10 minutes to take some nuts off some studs/threads. Well I forgot all about lefty loosey and righty tighty and instead of loosening the nut I was making tighter and tighter and I broke all 3 of the studs and now I have no where to mount the engine mount because there’s no studs. So I need someone with knowledge and wisdom to help me solve this problem. How do I replace the studs? Does someone know if the studs are part of the vehicle’s frame or can I simple take them out and replace them? I have a Focus 2003 with the zetec engine. I need you’re help asap I can’t drive my car without first fixing that. Sorry for being so dumb smh.
Great idea for the bolt shank removal, just got to be carefull with welding sparks around engine and battery, cover with wet towels, etc.(PSA), IAC good to hear your back on the road (y):cool:
oh yes I forgot to mention we had wet cardboard around where he was welding and everything came out good. Thank you 😎
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you unplug the PCM? Many people weld on cars to blow out the computers.
I watched him weld. We had no need to in my case. I’ve been driving the car and had absolutely no problems with anything
 
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