"How To" - VF Engineering Rear Mount-Install Pics

1) Jack up the front end of the car, and support on stands.
2) Place floor jack underneath the transmission.
As seen in the picture, I used a piece of 2X4 to distribute the load more evenly.
Just take the pressure off the mount. No need to raise the transmission.
3) Remove the 3 bolts noted by the red arrows.
4) Loosen the bolt denoted by the yellow arrow, but do not remove.

5) Pivot the gold colored plate as shown.
6) Rotate the front of the mount towards the passenger side, pull forward, and remove.

Here’s the comparison of the stock and VF Engineering mount.

7) Install the new motor mount just as you took the old one out by rotating it into position.
8) Install the forward most bolt into the gold plate. (Hand tighten only at this point)
9) Install the forward most motor mount bolt. (Hand tighten only at this point)
10) Using a 2X2 as shown (or equivalent),
gently pry the engine/transmission assembly forward to line up the rear motor mount bolt hole.
11) Install the rear motor bolt. (Hand tighten only)

Definition of “Hand tighten only”:
Using a ratchet and socket, snug up the bolt, but don’t torque all the way tight.

12) Torque the 2 motor mount bolts and 2 plate bolts to 35 lbs-ft.
13) Lower the jack from underneath the transmission, and then lower the car to the ground.
14) Start car.
15) Drive car.
16) Shift from 1st to 2nd gear, and note how much better it hooks up!

Thanks man!
Now for the "epilogue".

I am extremely pleased with this modification.
You will not believe how much tighter the shifting is.
1st to 2nd upshift is virtually seemless now. No more…..BANG.
A pleasant side effect is that downshifting is also notably tighter.
It sure showed up this weekend on the AutoCross course.

As far as NVH, what I do notice is slightly more vibration just after the engine kicks over upon startup.
More importantly, is I don't notice any increased vibrations at idle, I.E. sitting at stoplights.

Now, to go get myself the Steeda short shifter, and have the best of both worlds.[]

IMHO, I would not install the shifter without first doing the rear motor mount.
No matter how much you improve the shifter, the engine is still going to be moving too much.

I looked at the inserts, and also read some reviews on this forum and elsewhere.
You bet it would save some money, and that's a good route to go if you need to.
However, I didn't want to modify my stock mount.
If there ever is a problem with my clutch or tranny,
I'd like the luxury of putting the stock mount back on before I take it in.
I do believe the design of the VF mount provides for more contact with the frame than the inserts would.
I have also read that some peoples' inserts loosened up over time.

I thougt about it for quite some time, but when all was said and done,
for my own needs/wants, it was worth the extra coin to get the full mount.

Here's a picture to better explain the frame contact area between the 2 different mounts.
Note the lower portion of the bushing is "cupped" on the VF mount.
It provides for 100% contact to the frame area.
The stock bushing only contacts where the metal insert sits.