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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I am thinking I will finally make my system more well rounded. I think I will be going with diamond audio D3 6" or 6.5" components and thinking I will need to make mounts inside out of mdf. after that would you recommend putting in dynomat etc...? Also I plan to throw a set in the rear to, idk what else would be needed to help me get the most out of them. Oh yeah I have 1 kicker L7 already wired up in my car. I plan on getting another 4 channel amp just for the component speakers. Any comments tips or concerns are welcome.
 

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Hey guys I am thinking I will finally make my system more well rounded. I think I will be going with diamond audio D3 6" or 6.5" components and thinking I will need to make mounts inside out of mdf. after that would you recommend putting in dynomat etc...? Also I plan to throw a set in the rear to, idk what else would be needed to help me get the most out of them. Oh yeah I have 1 kicker L7 already wired up in my car. I plan on getting another 4 channel amp just for the component speakers. Any comments tips or concerns are welcome.
Honestly, I would not use MDF for speaker mounts in the doors. The inside of the doors tend to get wet when it rains and if you roll up/down your window or anything it increases the chance for it to get wet, along with moisture. MDF is horrible to use if there is any chance at all for it to get wet.

You could always spray the wood with some kind of water resistant paint or something, but I would use something other than MDF for that to be safe. I have seen several pictures and some in person of where MDF was used and it ended up failing due to getting wet somehow. You could always just buy plastic mounts to fit, even though it may cost more than making your own.

For the speakers I would suggest Infinity KAPPA, I have the 5x7's in my focus and they are absolutely amazing, and can handle tons of power. I have mine matched up with a Kicker 11ZX650.4. I did have the Infinity KAPPA FOUR amp, which sounded good as well, but went through 2 of the KAPPA's in under 2 weeks. They kept failing for some reason, so I got the Kicker for the same price, and it sounds even better with no issues.

And any sound deadening is always a plus, no matter where it's at. It will not only help the sound coming from the speakers, but also help make your ride on the highway super quiet! I have AudioTechnix 60mil sound deadener and it's awesome to work with. Simply peel the backing and stick it wherever! It's super thick, and wasn't that high of a price. I think I paid around $70 after shipping for 25 sq. feet of it. I know there is a lot of other cheaper companies out there, but they are always A LOT thinner, thus doing less to help your sound.

I would just go with 5x7/6x8 speakers instead to make it a lot easier, and there is nothing wrong with doing so. I have the KAPPA coaxial speakers (tweeter mounted on speaker) and they are stunning. The tweeter on them can swivel so you can help point them to where you are in the car to hear the amzing clarity of the highs! Super easy to install since they come with a crossover and it just mounts anywhere back there with no having to connect wires directly to speaker. I used industrial strength velcro to mount the crossover (which is small). You can buy the velcro pretty much anywhere, like Lowes or Home Depot.

This is just my input/advice or whatever you want to call it. Lol.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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AudioTechnix is a really good deal(it is on sale right now, visit their website). Use fiberglass resin to water-proof the MDF baffles. It works like a charm! Seal off ALL of the access holes in the door. This prevents the back wave meeting the front wave of the speaker(this is called cancellation and kills all of your mid-bass). Click on my avatar and look at my albums. This should give you some ideas on the direction that you need to go in. you can also use 4" grey foam around the mids to seal off the front wave from bouncing around inside of the door panel. This will help funnel the sound into the cabin.

Feel free to PM me for any further help. I also encourage you to mount your tweeters in the A pillars to bring you soundstage up and out front of you. It works very well.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks to both of you! I would have been screwed with the baffles but thanks for the heads up on the moisture. I might just buy some of those plastic baffle mount things (didnt know they existed til now lol) that way I will not have to worry about moisture. As for the speakers I think I will stick with the round one's just for the fact that they sound more natural from what I have heard. I also heard that the tweeters sound better if mounted up top, less interference with the mid bass. Thanks for thge heads up on the deadner, I think I will look into it forsure! freemind, I'm gonna creep your pics to see how you did it
 

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The tweeters would definately sound better if mounted on the pillar, I didn't realize you were going to do component speakers. But if you do coaxial speakers, something with a swivel tweeter would work. I love the sound of mine, the highs are crystal clear and have no interference at all with the mid range from the cone since they are seperate. I hear every range of the spectrum just fine lol.

And the speakers are all about preference. Some could argue that the round have better SQ than oval shaped speakers, others could argue the opposite, or that they are the same. From my own personal experience, I noticed that either one sounded the same if comparing two equal speakers, like the same model but one is round and the other oval.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'll let you all know what I get lol, Is it strange to run Components in the front but coax speakers in the rear with the tweeters in the middle? I plan to amp it all
 

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I see people all the time run components up front and coaxial in rear to just help fill the sound, since noone hardly sits back there. I'm not sure what you mean by tweeters in the middle lol.
 

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I reread your last post and I get it now, lol. I thought you meant mounting the tweeters in the middle somewhere. You mean coaxials that have the tweeter in the middle seperate, right? That is fine, but try to get something with swivel tweeters to help point them towards the listening area, like the back seat headrests.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah lol, wish I would have been able to save a set of MTX 6.5's I had in a car my sister totaled. Never got a chance to grab them :( now I have a couple sets of factory honda accord speakers that I have no use for them lol
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Do you have rear seat passengers veryu often?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Every now and then, but either way the rears will need replaced they are starting to crackle at high volume
 

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Vince your Moderator
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You can do without the rears IMO

But it is up to you.
 

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I was thinking that you could use that money for soundproofing. That would buy you about 25 sqft. Maybe more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Besides the doors ware would I make the best use of that 25 square feet? The hatch and some of the sides, or maybe thats enough for most of the car?
 

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Depending on the soundproofing, I think that you can get away with 50sqft. The biggest thing is to focus(no pun intended)on the large flat areas first, like where the spare is, side panels, doors and the floor pan. Plus, put a few sqft. under the headliner(I should of done that myself)I'd do 6"x12" strips. it is a large flat area. It will make a difference. But, you will get some noise thru the firewall, etc.

Just remember this cuts down on resonance. If you want to totally kill the noise, it gets more involved. But, one step at a time for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know its been a while but figured I would show you all what I have come up with

equipment wise I went with D3 6.5 components, made 1/4 inch wood baffles and coated with plasti-dip, got an american bass sq925 4ch amp, a 4 guage wiring kit for the second amp, used 16 on the speakers, and for right now I only used a small door kit for a little bit of sound proofing but definitely more to come.

out of order missing some pics but you get the idea




crossovers in crash foam


ballistics around speakers



I'm missing the picture of the trunk with my 2 american bass amps and kicker L7 but as of now it sounds good, but I am clueless when it comes to messing with the settings on the amps. I'm only 18 so this is my first real set up any tips are welcome
 

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looks great
 

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And anyone interested I ordered this for my budy and this little micro amp is rated 1250rms and 2500 peak. My friend has it pushing 2 d3 12's and this amp is insane, did not expect such a small thing to do so much. yes thats a size 10 sneaker



heres some more info
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/1796-test-report-american-bass-ph-2500-md
thats a nice amp for being so small. i saw that it did test to do below the rms power they said it would but that in most cases is to be expected. they most likely only tested a few of the amps and then took an average and said thats the rms. not all amps will actually put out the same power even if they are the same exact amps. some might have better connections on the circuit board for some reason or another and some just for some odd reason dont do as good as the others.
 
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