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The ATF fluid is cheap, fill and see what happens. The worst case scenario is getting a new PS and high pressure line (connects to the PS rack). I went to Autozone and paid less than $60 for a new pump and the line is close to $50 (I think that's the price...). After 30k miles, I'm impressed the AZ parts lasted......... for now.
 

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I would like to add some info to this thread incase someone reads this one and not any others. If anyone feels this should move to it's own thread please make me aware. I do not wish to thread jack, just wanted to add more info. If you only have a leak at the pipe where it goes into the union nut, or the nut itself, then this lil novel is for you.

If your union nut and pipe ONLY is what leaks, then you can unbolt only that nut and swap the nut itself. Move the coolant expansion tank outta the way. Move the ps reservior out of the way. Use a 8mm on the tensioner and take your belt loose. You WILL need a 18mm crows foot (as the op mentioned) and a couple of long extensions to unbolt the nut from underneath, unbolt the line 'holder' from the motor on top, so the line will wiggle well enough for ya, then wiggle it out from under the pump, and pull it up where you can work with the nut end on the radiator support. To get the old nut off of the pipe, I had to very precisely and carefully use a cutting wheel to cut around it where the brass locking ring is, (observe your new nut to see where you need to do your cut all the way around) until I reached the ring, used a tiny flat-head to break it off, then both pieces of the old nut will slide right off. The new nut slides on and clicks in place like buttah, then just bolt'r back up.
You do not need an o-ring in the pump for the union nut to tighten 'against', as shown above in this great write up. (Thank you for it!)
Ford does not have that in their parts diag or the procedures. My leak was bubbling from between the pipe and the union nut, so I bought the nut itself from Ford for 8 bucks. (Miracle that they sell it by itself) It comes with all the rings pre-installed on it that it requires. Buying this will keep you from having to buy and replace the whole line.

I would recommend removing the belt. As bad as that sucks, you will waste crazy time and effort trying to get the nut to 'start' unless you take the belt loose. Then you can get a proper grip on the nut with your fingers.

I also would like to reassure ppl that have to drive home with no ps that my pump survived just fine even though I drove 20-30 minutes with it totally empty. It made quite a bit of racket, so I figured it would need to be replaced, but it is quiet as a mouse again. After the union nut job was done, it was still very loud and I discovered I had two leaks. The dang ps switch on the pump was leaking out of the connector also. I swapped that, and THEN the ps pump was totally quiet like new. So look for that if your pump is still noisy after the nut swap. Thank you FLZ for chiming in earlier before I did this gig today.
 

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I decided to replace the union nut aka quick release fitting aka 3R608 with the above method. I stuffed a paper shop rag in the HP line and carefully ground a ring around the old connector until the threaded end separated. I twisted off the retaining ring and the other half slid off. I managed not to ding the high pressure line during the operation. I cleaned off the end and installed the new 3R608. Reinstalled the pump and she's running great - no leaks!
 

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Pressure line to pump union: finger tighten at first?

This has been very helpful to me as I work on this project on my 2000 ZX3.

Q: should the union screw into the body easily or is it ok for it to require a wrench after a few threads? I'm afraid of cross threading it.
 

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Pressure line to pump union: finger tighten at first?

This thread has been very helpful to me as I work on replacing my power steering pump on my 2000 ZX3.

Q: should the union screw into the pump body easily or is it ok for it to require a wrench after a few threads? I'm afraid of cross threading it.
 

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I'm thinking I might need to replace the o-ring seals on my SVT steering rack:

I understand they are over-priced, but what are the Part #'s?

Plus gotta replace the P/S pump, but have been lubing/oiling the pulley shaft by the body seal.
This keeps the pump "quiet".

If not, it sounds like an over-sized salt & pepper shaker on start-up & some funny sounds when I have the hood propped....

Also, I've read somewhere that the original pulley has to be pressed on a perfect depth or it will eat serpentine belts.... how do I do this?
 

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This thread has been very helpful to me as I work on replacing my power steering pump on my 2000 ZX3.

Q: should the union screw into the pump body easily or is it ok for it to require a wrench after a few threads? I'm afraid of cross threading it.
Answered my own question: the same union easily screws in without tools to the old pump.
 

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Call me stupid if you want but this thread does not sat WHY you would want to do this swap . I read the entire thread but found no answer to this question.
If your power steering pump fails and needs replacing or if your power steering high pressure line fails or a combination of both.

And most of the time when you play with the high pressure line the oring/washer are a one time use sort of deal so you either need to find a replacement oring and washer or replace the whole line.

Or buy the massive speed systems kit and convert them all to an lines and don’t worry about the high pressure line ever again or leaks in general again.
 

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If your power steering pump fails and needs replacing or if your power steering high pressure line fails or a combination of both.

And most of the time when you play with the high pressure line the oring/washer are a one time use sort of deal so you either need to find a replacement oring and washer or replace the whole line.

Or buy the massive speed systems kit and convert them all to an lines and don’t worry about the high pressure line ever again or leaks in general again.
Do you mean OEM Ford 388898-S or Dormant 82540 Teflon seal on the pump end?
I am currently doing those very seals along with two 6s4z-3f886-a orings at the reservoir. At least those are the part numbers on my 07 SE. I don't see the problem. I bought all of these for like $12.00.
 

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Do you mean OEM Ford 388898-S or Dormant 82540 Teflon seal on the pump end?
I am currently doing those very seals along with two 6s4z-3f886-a orings at the reservoir. At least those are the part numbers on my 07 SE. I don't see the problem. I bought all of these for like $12.00.
So what’s your issue? Lol if it works for you congrats. I don’t understand what your questioning here in this thread?
 

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The question was "why would you want to do such a swap?" Is there something to be gained from doing this swap? Not trying to insult or cause problems. Just want to know what was meant by doing this swap.
 

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It’s not a swap it’s a write up on how to do a replacement for your power steering pump/power steering high pressure line if they brake malfunction or leak no swap replacement bad parts to good parts broken parts to working parts old parts to new parts.
 
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