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Hello,
The original factory battery in my 2013 focus seems to be weak, even though it's only 2.5 years old. The voltage bleeds down to 11.8 V after about an hour after parking it. I have a '95 Tbird in which the battery is 7 years old and it holds up about 11. V for a couple weeks.

Interesting thing is both these batteries measure exactly the same on a hydrometer -- exactly on the line between the white and red, which I think indicates a pretty weak battery. I expect this on a 7-year old battery, but not on the 2-year old one.

On the Focus, the battery is in a box stuffed up against the firewall and the back half is hidden under the cowl, so I cannot even see, let alone access, the rear 3 cells. It looks like quite a bit of dis-assembly and removal of other stuff in front of the battery box must be done in order to get the battery out of the vehicle.

Has anyone here done this, and could describe how....? Or direct me to a source of such info...?

Thanks much for any advice...!
 

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In addition to the difficulty of physically removing the battery, the Focus has a complex battery-charging strategy that depends on the PCM's view of the battery's condition.

When a new battery is installed, the PCM must be reset or the car will assume the old battery is still in place and will charge accordingly. I expect most shops and people will replace the battery without the reset (don't know about it, couldn't do it anyway) and battery life will suffer. That's why I'll let my dealer replace the battery when it's time. The labor charge is very modest and Ford dealers do have battery specials from time to time.
 

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In addition to the difficulty of physically removing the battery, the Focus has a complex battery-charging strategy that depends on the PCM's view of the battery's condition.

When a new battery is installed, the PCM must be reset or the car will assume the old battery is still in place and will charge accordingly. I expect most shops and people will replace the battery without the reset (don't know about it, couldn't do it anyway) and battery life will suffer. That's why I'll let my dealer replace the battery when it's time. The labor charge is very modest and Ford dealers do have battery specials from time to time.
Oddly enough I brought this up to a ford tech mechanic while also discussing my eibach sportlines and he said I could replace it on my own and the pcm reset was just more of a visual reference and had no bearing on the charge/discharge rate of the new battery.
 

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Oddly enough I brought this up to a ford tech mechanic while also discussing my eibach sportlines and he said I could replace it on my own and the pcm reset was just more of a visual reference and had no bearing on the charge/discharge rate of the new battery.
Directly from the shop manual:
 

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Old Phart
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It's not a "code" to clear, needs Dealer level "IDS" computer system for the reset.

Maybe someone will find another answer like the "FoCCCus" software for BCM resets, right now I haven't heard of another option.
 

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Directly from the shop manual:
What manual, exactly, is this from because the manual I have says absolutely nothing about resetting the battery -- not one word. What follows, in bold, is what I see in my manual beginning from page 342.


BATTERY
Your vehicle is equipped with a
Motorcraft maintenance-free
battery which normally does not
require additional water during its
life of service.

If your battery has a cover/shield, make sure it is reinstalled
after the battery has been cleaned or replaced.

For longer, trouble-free operation, keep the top of the battery clean and
dry. Also, make certain the battery cables are always tightly fastened to
the battery terminals.

If you see any corrosion on the battery or terminals, remove the cables
from the terminals and clean with a wire brush. You can neutralize the
acid with a solution of baking soda and water.

It is recommended that the negative battery cable terminal be
disconnected from the battery if you plan to store your vehicle for an
extended period of time. This will minimize the discharge of your battery
during storage.

To ensure proper operation of the battery management system (BMS),
any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their
ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A
connection at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate
measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system
operation.

Note: Electrical or electronic accessories or components added to the
vehicle by the dealer or the owner may adversely affect battery
performance and durability and may also affect the performance of other
electrical systems in the vehicle.

When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be
replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery that matches
the electrical requirements of the vehicle.

Relearn
When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the
automatic transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of
this, the transmission may shift firmly when first driven. This operation is
considered normal and will fully update transmission operation to its
optimum shift feel.

If the battery has been disconnected or a new battery has been installed,
the clock and the preset radio stations must be reset once the battery is
reconnected.


Always dispose of automotive
batteries in a responsible manner.
Follow your local authorized
standards for disposal. Call your
local authorized recycling center
to find out more about recycling
automotive batteries.



No where in my manual does it say anything about resetting the battery monitoring software. So, could you please provide more specific information about the manual you used as the manual I used was the on I downloaded from the Ford website for the 2012 FF. The file name for my manual is: 12focog4e.pdf.

The only other reference in the manual to the battery is on page 314 which details how to jump start the battery, and page 367 which just details the specifications for the battery. If this is something needed then why is it not listed in the manual? My manual does reference the BMS but in the sections about battery replacement there is no mention of a reset other than the the DCT needing to relearn and the clock and radio presets will need to be redone.


Brian
 

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Owner's manual vs. shop manual, fewer details in the massively condensed and limited owner's information.

Owner's manual is best for the details of operation NOT given in a Shop manual, the reverse is true for technical details.

P.S. - owner's manual should have mentioned this, how "critical" it is can be debated. Note it doesn't mention all the resets needed either, like automatic windows if equipped.
 

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Well that's just bad documentation. If this is something that's required or even suggested then it should be mentioned in anything even remotely called a manual.

The other thing is ... it should not much matter what the state or charge is when power is restored as the car can monitor voltage, temperature and probably knows something about current and from this it can calculate charge state. And, with charge and discharge monitored over time it should be able to know the capacity and quality of the battery. When I recharge my LiIon or NiMH batteries it doesn't matter what the charge level is when I put them in the charger as the charger figures that out.

None of that should require a reset. And further, how accurately do you know the initial state of charge of a new battery. I mean they come charged, but how long has it been since manufactured/charged because there's the thing called self discharge.

And, for what it's worth, I replaced my battery today and did no reset. I'd originally purchased the Optima Redtop that Autozone said was compatible but the terminals project above the top of the battery and when installed the covers would not fit so I had to replace it with a Duralast.


Brian
 

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Last time this got discussed in depth the consensus was that the shop manual description of the system had a lot to be desired as well.

"State of charge" when installed is a variable as you mention, having a new one and starting the battery measurement log fresh to track it for better age/capacity estimates makes more sense to me.

It's not a basic charging system anymore where the alt. puts out depending on voltage, or even the next version (MkI Focus) that had simple cutouts like full throttle.

This one cycles charging to maintain it without a constant charging load on the engine for better MPG, tries to adjust voltages for better battery charging (that's where the age/condition come in), and tracks capacity for the "shedding loads" feature mentioned as well.

Condition sensor attached to the battery is new for the MkIII for a change you can see.
 

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As I said I replaced the battery yesterday and today I did a drive of 2.5 hours so it should be fully charged now.

I did not have to reset my clock as it appears the GPS did that for me, and I don't use the radio so presets aren't an issue either.

The one thing I have noticed and this must be from the MFT update a couple weeks back is that the GPS pointer is all over the place. In the 3.7 years I had the car before the latest MFT update I don't think I ever had an issue with the GPS pointer jumping all over the place but after the update it is really bad. I'd roll back the the previous version if I had a choice.


Brian
 

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All of a sudden, what it's supposed to be a simple battery swap becomes a complicated issue starting with the removal of such [hihi][hihi][hihi]
 

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I have several smart chargers for my rechargeable batteries and they can detect what type of battery, be it LiIon or NiMH, and adjust the charge voltage and current as needed. It determines the current state of charge and charges accordingly. They cost about $20. I see no reason a smart lead-acid battery charger should be any more complicated than my $20 charger and in the volumes Ford makes these cars there cost would likely be at most a few dollars and likely pennies.

If there is a "requirement" in some of Fords manuals but apparently not all of them then my guess this is yet another attempt to force owners to do all maintenance at the dealer. The oil monitor reset procedure is ridiculously complicated for no good reason -- there's no reason this couldn't be done with the engine off and the car parked by selecting a menu option to reset followed by a confirm y/n confirmation. They make it more complicated in order to drive owners to have oil changes done at the dealer.


Brian
 

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OLM reset procedures started before there were any screens or buttons to do a reset with, better than the BMW type that required it by Dealer or with a special tool you could buy. Odd sequence so it was unlikely to be done by accident.

I think they continued it since it was familiar to many by now and didn't need different descriptions for different trim levels.
 

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If there is a "requirement" in some of Fords manuals but apparently not all of them.....
Both the online shop manual and the official shop manual make mention of the reset procedure for battery replacement.

The owner's manual does not mention it nor should it. It is more of an operational/instructional manual with basic fluid checks and capacities, not an all inclusive service manual.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/323957-anyone-need-2012-2013-shop-manual.html
 

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Both the online shop manual and the official shop manual make mention of the reset procedure for battery replacement.

The owner's manual does not mention it nor should it. It is more of an operational/instructional manual with basic fluid checks and capacities, not an all inclusive service manual.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/323957-anyone-need-2012-2013-shop-manual.html
But then how is the average owner, who will never see the shop manual, supposed to know that they need to have the reset done by a dealer if they get the battery replaced somewhere else?
 
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