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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im about to pull engine and trans on my receiver car, but i dont know how to remove the cv axles,any help please...


ford focus sedan 2.0 spi 2002
 

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both sides i suppose! this is how i did it, not the preferred way but it works, I use the tranny housing and use a medium size screw driver and pry out drivers side, now on the passanger side idk if spi has it or not but u have to remove bracket for the race bearing, then i go back to driver side look thru tranny and use a punch and place it between the spider gears and knock the other side out
 

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pull the passengers (remove with hub or take axle out of hub) and 3 bolts on the carrier bearing. it just pulls out. put a punch threw the diff and give it a few good wacks to knock out the drivers side. just be careful about what your hitting on inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the passenger side dont need to be pryed? just pull? i could do that, would you able to tell from peeking on the transaxle the surface edge of the driver side axle?
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread, but wanted to share my experience to help others. Did both sides, here is what I found. Both sides were able to use tire iron from focus to pry the shaft out, no problem at all. (01 se wagon zetec 4f27e automatic tranny). put it together and it leaked trans fluid from drivers side. installed seal I had bought, was tough to get in but got it. same result, it leaked. after the 5th seal and lots of frustration later here is the deal on getting the seal in: Jack the vehicle high and get good room to work. get ererything out of the way, knucke, strut, tuck the caliper under plastic wheel well on side near the door. place the seal in and press it by hand till it stays in place. Now get a small hammer and tap around the metal ring on the seal. Here is where all the room you made helps as it is a tight area to work. Do NOT beat the seal as it will bend and leak. I tried a seal driver from harbor freight, does not work for this. Just tap and work your way around the seal patiently but firmly. It will be frustration, you will hit one side and the other will pop out, or the whole seal will pop out. Just keep taping lightly and it will finally seat. Elfin taps. you can tell it seated because it will feel different and sound different when it seats and hits bottom. there is a lip on the seal that will stand out 1/16 of an inch or so when seated. 2nd key, if it is leaking, it could be because you did not drive the shaft in all the way. Don't be in denial on this, they are tough to get in all the way. look where the shaft goes through the seal, there should be no gap. Even with no gap mine was still leaking. I finally smacked the end of the shaft with a 2 lb. sledge harder and harder and suddenly, "click" the circlip finally clicked that last bit. I could have sworn it was in before, but it wasn't. So don't be afraid to hit it. I hope this helps someone and saves them from buying unnecessary seals.
 

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Problem being you can easily break the inner trunnions of the axle by hitting on the outboard of axle.

The seals are EASILY damaged by simply throwing axle 'up in there' rather than carefully centering the end stub in the seal and hole because the splines having been run commonly have very sharp edges on them.

Next time take the time to carefully pick a socket that fits just right over the outer seal edge to knock it in all the way around at once. Small taps like you say, and make yourself plenty of room in there too.

The driver side is the EASY one, the other side sucks more.
 
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