[SVT3658]

My SVT's power steering line blew out of the fitting at the pump, and rather than getting another stock one that is prone to failure I decided to make one out of Teflon Insert SS Braided line and AN fittings.

A very important thing to note is the difference between the SVT and non-SVT Zetecs ... the SVT has the pressure sensor/valve in the hose, whereas the regular Zetec has it in the power steering pump. I have an SVT, and I just eliminated the sensor/valve. That was not the best choice. Without the sensor, I have almost no power steering at idle. Once the engine is above ~1500RPM, it is fine.

The procedure I describe is ideal for a non-SVT. If you have an SVT you need to either come up with a way to retain the sensor, or choose to delete it.

A potential solution for SVT owners is to change the power steering pump for a regular Zetec one. I will most likely try that....if I do, I'll be sure to report back on if it works.



Parts you will need:


M16x1.5 (threads in the PS pump) to -6AN adapter

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-648060/

90 degree coupler, female -6AN / male -6AN

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-498103/

two -6 AN Hose End to Female -6 AN

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-620401/

6 feet of hose is probably too much, but I didn't want to not have enough. Do not cheap out and get the regular braided SS hose...this hose has a nylon insert so it can withstand the PS system pressure

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632610/

-6AN to 3/8NPT Steel Adapter

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-581666/




What you do:

Obviously, remove the stock power steering line.

Install the hose ends to the SS braided line. Take the hose end apart, it breaks down into 3 pieces: the part that goes over the hose, a small fitting that gos inside, and the female AN fitting. Set the female AN part down for now. Take the other end of the fitting and slide it over the hose. Take the smal fitting and put it on the line. It goes between the teflon tube and the braided SS. Then, get the female AN piece again. Put some oil on the neck that comes out of the bottom of it, and slide it into the teflon hose. Bring the other piece up the hose to the bottom of the female AN piece, and tighten it down. Do this for both ends.

I really only needed ~5 feet for the way I routed my hose, but I used all 6 and have some extra in the system. If you want to measure it out and cut the line down, I would honestly recommend it. To cut the line, wrap electrical tape around the hose where you will cut it. Use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the line. Peel off the tape, and use some snips to clean up any stray/frayed pieces of braided stainless.

Now get your other fittings out.

The M16x1.5 to -6 AN adapter goes into the bottom of the power steering pump. Put a little bit of oil onto the o-ring before you screw it in! I tightened it as tight as I could, and called it good.

Next, get the 45 degree coupler. Screw it onto the adapter you just put into the power steering pump. Make sure you get the end of the fitting to point towards the front of the car when it is tightened down!

For now, we're done with the pump. Time to move onto the line at the rack end.


Now you need to cut the hardline on the stock line where you want to adapt it to an AN fittng. You can either cut it off at the first hardline (before it goes to soft line), or you can cut it off after the soft line. I cut mine after the soft line.


This part requires a drill press and a welder. I do not have either, so I went to a machine shop.

Get your -6AN to 3/8NPT adapter. On the NPT side, the hole is almost big enought to slide the power steering hard line into. Drill out the NPT side of the fitting so the hard line will slide into it (this is where you need the drill press). Weld the fitting to the hard line.

Now you're ready to install it all. Reattach the hard line to the rack, and run the softline out along the framerail.

These [][][][][][]*ty pictures show how I routed my line (don't mind the wiring mess you can see, I have some clean up wiring work to do)

This one I tucked up above the foglight after I took the picture

From here, I routed it in front of the lower radiator support then between the support and the radiator and along the frame rail to the fitting welded onto the hardline.

Make sure everything is nice and tight (DON'T USE ANY TEFLON TAPE or any crap like that), fill it up with fluid, and get the air out of the system.

I had the car on jack stands. I filled the reservoir, got in the car, held the gas at WOT (so the injectors don't fire), and cranked it for about 10 seconds whil turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. Check/fill the reservoir, repeat a couple more times. Then I just started the car and let it idle while I turned the wheel back and forth for a while, refilling the reservoir as needed.


I don't really have any other pictures, if you need any just ask and I'll see what I can do [thumb]



I need a new serpentine belt and PS pump, like I said I am going to try a regular Zetec pump and see if it works. I'll report back probably after the weekend.

















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[SVT3658]

Post saved for info on putting a regular Zetec power steering pump on an SVT

 

[1turbofocus]

There is a aeroquip fitting where you cut the mettel line and the fitting has a ferrel that crimps on the metal line thn has the AN fitting on the other end , keeps you from having to weld it which i found didnt hold up well with the psi and vibrations

I didnt something on this on here years ago showing that fitting

Tom

 

[SVT3658]

There is an aeroquip fitting where you cut the metal line and the fitting has a ferrel that crimps on the metal line then has the AN fitting on the other end , keeps you from having to weld it which i found didnt hold up well with the psi and vibrations

I didnt something on this on here years ago showing that fitting

Tom

I actually bought one of those and was going to use it, but I looked at it for a couple days (over the weekend) and decided I didn't want to trust it...especially since I found out it was only rated for 50psi

Summit Racing and Jegs have their own line of them, they're like $8 each. My fitting and the welding work were triple that cost, but it will never fail (well, it shouldn't) so I'm content with having spent the extra money.

 

[Blue5ive]

Nice write up. May have to try this for my zetec for when I get ready to install my SVT header.

 

[SVT3658]

^Thanks


So update:

My stock pump (with 208k on it) was dead. I put a new SVT PS pump on and the car functions flawlessly with an SVT pump and a SS braided line with no pressure sensor/switch. I swapped a new SVT pump on last night and put over 100 miles on the car today with zero issues. There is plenty of pressure to turn the wheels lock to lock at a dead stop with the same amount of effort as stock

 

[MAZX3]

I've been preparing for a Vortech SC install and decided to relocate the PS line,.. My PS pump was failing anyway so it was a good time to do it.This thread was helpful but I ended up with a leak still at the PS pump.

The issue is where the fitting seals against the pump. The fitting shown above doesn't seal at the body of the pump like the factory fitting does with a Teflon seal, so after a little searching I came across this.

Power Steering Fitting, AN6 to 5/8 Inch or 16mm-1.5 O-Ring

Works like a charm,... no leaks.

I also wanted to retain the factory pressure switch, so after a little research I put together these parts.

Earls AT925106ERL -6 AN Tee, Female Swivel on Branch, Aluminum

Earls AT939206ERL 45 Degree -6 AN Female to Female Swivel Adapter

Aluminum Flare Fitting Plug, Black, -6 AN


I drilled out the plug using a drill press to 11/32 in. being careful not drill too far and hurting the mating surface of the plug. I tapped it using a M10 x 1.0 tap. Installed and tightened everything up and no leaks!!

 

[pasta]

Good work.

 

[amc49]

To anybody who reads the upper part of the post (the stuff in the past), the method used to join that fitting to the straight piece of line is brazing and garbage when used there. True welding is 100% better as brazing does not cross the barrier of both base materials nearly so much. While a job like that MIGHT last they very often crack under those conditions as that is what brazing does best used like that (connecting parts out on the end of a vibrating lever like the straight piece of line is).

 

[Magus2727]

I am trying to remember my routing and where and how the cooler connectors connect, (low side pressure on rack to a press in locking on cooler then to reservoir then to pump...? but regardless but why not just look at also doing the whole line in the SS braid by using the kit from Massive?

Massive Perfekonnection Fluid Transfer Parts - Massive Hardcore Racing Performance Parts - Massive Speed System - Ford Focus Specialists

It's not on the cheap side of things, but would much rather do this than try any type of welding.