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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to do the spi to Zetec swap. Starting the swap on 11/3/11

I have prepared the Zetec motor and have all the required parts.

After the Zetec is in and running good I plan to BUILD another Zetec to drop in.

My goals are:

Drive daily. Have over 250 HP

What is the most effective way to achieve this?

I think Turbo?

I was gonna a do a complete rebuild on the motor:

Bottom end:
forged 9:1 pistons and rods
Bored and Honed
Stock crank

Head:
Massive speed performance
http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/_...der_head_ultimate_v12/maen42852/i-252201.aspx

Lightweight pullys and all.

Intake:

Having trouble finding one.
Maybe this:
http://topspeedperformance.net/store/#ecwid:category=564192&mode=product&product=1556102

Bigger injectors and fuel rail

Turbo & Intercooler

SVT Livewire programmer


Any suggestions for the motor build would be greatly appreciated.

I dont know much about this stuff. Just learning on this SPI to Zetec swap.

This is on the motor im putting in now.

I got an MSD ignition
Accell Silver plugs
OBX header and removed Cat
KN Air intake

On a junkyard motor that ran great with 70K on it.

Will there be any HP gains from these bolt ons that I did?

Thanks,
Joe
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for turbo Zetec intakes guys like the svt intake conversion.
to reach 250hp turbo will be cheapest and easiest way.
For spark they usually go colder copper plugs and stock coil
After turbo your header and intake won't fit probally.
 

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you could get right at the 250whp mark on a stock zetec with turbo kit with no need for a built bottom end. a ford racing head would be cheaper and just as good as the massive head. a stock coil pack is more than enough to support well over 700whp. there is not need to get a bigger fuel rail ever. the stock fuel rail flows plenty unless you are simply doing it because the new one has a place to tap it for nitrous and it looks better. no need to bore the block unless the cylinder is damaged. you wont gain any power by boring it out so dont do it unless you have to. eagle rods and supertech pistons are a very good combination and you can find them in a combo deal on ebay from time to time for $650. lightweight pulleys are not necessary. the power gain from them is negligible at best, the money you spend on them would be much better spent elsewhere. the top speed intake is very VERY good. you would do very well with that. however you can run the stock intake manifold and still make gobbs of power. you are going to need a boost-a-pump or a return style fuel system and fuel cell if you are going for big power. the stock fuel pump cant dish out enough to keep up. i also suggest getting in touch with tom (1turbofocus) for your tuning needs whenever you get to this point. you would be best off with a SCT xcalibrator 3 flasher/programmer for tuning.

the mods you did to the junk yard motor you are swapping in NOW will make a little more power than stock. the K&N will help some as well as the header. which obx header do you have? if it is the SVT header clone then you did very well because that is the best header currently available on the market for the zetec. sorry but the MSD coil doesnt do anything for performance. it just looks pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Day 1 of motor swap complete.

New harness and computer installed in car.

SPI Motor out of car.

Everything went smooth, the enginge harness removal was pretty easy. The installation of the new harness was a pain in the a because you have to fish it through a small hidden hole to get it in the engine compartment.

We left the tranny all intact and just took out the motor. Hopefully we can get the new motor to mount up to the tranny while its still in the car. Has anyone done this??

4am and I am beat.
 

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its easier to pull motor and tranny together out the bottom of the car but you can do it your way. its kinda tough tho
 

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If it's a MTX then it's easier to put the motor in then mate the tranny up.
It's pretty hard to get a FWD motor in with the tranny already in place.
 

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I <3 my SVT
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It only took me a half hour to swap a new zetec in and connect to trans that was already in the car, that was my first engine swap with no power tools. Its easy.

Matt
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
when we took the old motor out we had to come off the tranny at a bad angle.

Do you think I should bolt the flywheel and torque converter to the crank before putting in the new engine? That might make it hard. Or could I put the flywheel on the crank and torque converter on the tranny and bolt them together after its in? Auto transmission. What do you guys think?


Thanks,
Joe
 

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I <3 my SVT
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when i did mine, the torque converter was on the trans, the flywheel was on the block, and it went in from the top like butter. Tighten the 4 bolts that connect the converter to the flywheel thru the hole on the backside of the engine, and you're golden. Literally 30 minutes.

Matt
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flywheel on crank and torque
converter on trans
If the torque was on the flywhel during install I don't know if you'd ever get the torque converter all lined up and keywayed in right on the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, We went to drop in the motor today.

It appears that the Flywheel/Flexpate is different from the SPI to Zetec.

Can someone verify this?

We were unable to bolt the SPI flywheel to the Zetec motor because the bolts on the Zetec that hold it on are bigger than the bolts that hold it to the SPI. The holes lined up but the bolts from the Zetec would not go through the flexplate. And the the bolts from the SPI were slightly too small to thread into the Zetec crank.


Joe
 

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If the flexplate doesn't fit then the tq converter may not fit a zetec flexplate? Just my thoughts, I have now idea how right I am. Also make sure the motor has the auto bracket for the crank position sensor. They are different from auto to manual, and the only way to replace it is the pull the motor or the trans. Do you know if the zetec came from a auto?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Torque converter fits fine on the transmission.

The Zetec came from an 2001 automatic ZX3
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Question, on the SPI there was a shim behind the flexplate, but when I went to the junkyard and got the Zetec flexplate it was already off the engine so I did not get a shim. Does the Zetec have a small circular shin behind the flexplate?????


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I found a 65mm TB on ebay for $250

Also a TB spacer $85


would it be worth it for either of these?

Should I do both or one of them?

Looking for as much power as possible

Have OBX header and K&N intake
MSD coil / Massive plug wires and Accel Silver plugs

Going to get a tune as soon as Im done here.

Thanks,
Joe
 
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