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it is 6.9ish.... I drain the pain. (appox 3 qts) then i remove the cooler line and put it in an empty quart bottle have someone run the engine and move shifter through R N D 1 2 till that quart is full of old fluid (obvious color diff) then add a quart of fresh fluid, repeat till i have 4 bottles full. thats about 7 quarts when you are draining that last quart you will see the fresh fluid come through.
So you drop/drain the pan, I'm guessing leave the old filter in.

Put it back together. Disconnect cooler line.

Add fluid and keep going till what comes out of the cooler line is clean like you're putting in....

Then drop the pan and change filter, reassemble and fill with fluid...
 

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I'm sorry I should have been more clear.
1. Remove pan.
2. Remove/Replace Filter. There is a sensor attached to the filter dont break it.
3. Install pan and gasket.
4. Add 3 Quarts
5. Remove transmissoin oil cooler return line ( coming from transmissoin) this line likes to rust to spray with liquid wrench or PB blaster. If it snaps dont freak.
6. if you have a large enough clear hose put it on the cooler line and put it in an empty quart bottle. (clear tube helps you see color better.)
7. (2 person part) Have some one start the car with ebrake on and holding brake and move the automatic shifter through gears. shut off when one quart out. note dark color.
8. add 1 quart you are now at 4.
9. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
10. add quart now at 5.
11. start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full.
12. add quart now at 6
13.start car shift through again and shut off when another quart is full should be bright red and new. reattach cooler line.
14. add quart now at 7.

this method makes sure you get all the old fluid out of the cooler and torque converter.
If you snap the cooler line this is how i fixed it
http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/635648-snapped-transmission-cooler-line.html


6.
 

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I need a little help here, is everyone using Mercon V fluid? The manual says to use Mercon V and nothing else, is this correct?

Also I keep trying to check the fluid level and I think the fluid may be too hot. (In Arizona 100 degree heat) I can never tell on the dipstick exactly where the level is, its just to thin. At first I thought it was low so i added about a quart and then got the same reading as before. I guess I'm going to have to let it cool down and try again.
 

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I need a little help here, is everyone using Mercon V fluid? The manual says to use Mercon V and nothing else, is this correct?
Well, it has to meet the specs for Mercon V. Do you want to use something that doesn't meet this spec? I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF when I do my tranny flush in a few weeks.


Also I keep trying to check the fluid level and I think the fluid may be too hot. (In Arizona 100 degree heat) I can never tell on the dipstick exactly where the level is, its just to thin. At first I thought it was low so i added about a quart and then got the same reading as before. I guess I'm going to have to let it cool down and try again.
I have the same problem right now (in the 90s here in CO). The online manual for my '02 says to check the fluid between 120F-140F, so a short drive (5 mi?) is going to be enough to get it up to correct inspection temp when you're starting out at 100F.
 

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The kit, filter and gasket, that Advance Auto is selling has a rubber gasket. I put one on today and used no RTV. Torqued pan bolts to about 60 inch-pounds as per manual.

And why does that Mercon fluid smell so d$%m bad? Ugh!

Pav
 

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I just did a drop the pan and change the filter routine...and was trying to follow the Haynes manual...a mistake.

How I did it:

* Jacked the car up some on the drivers side in front...with an extra safety support.

* Undid all the 10 mm bolts...leaving 2 out about 1/8th "...on both sides of the pan in the middle.

* Used a medium flat blade screwdriver and small hammer to tap on the front corners between the pan and trans casting...just until it started to break loose.

* then drained the fluid...and removed the last 2 bolts.

Here is a pic of the pan when off...

http://www.nonags.org/members/nijqk/ZX3tpan.JPG

Notice where I swiped the magnet with my finger...lots of sludge on it and in the bottom of the pan.

Used a dull putty knife to clean up most of the old RTV from the pan...and then used paper towels to clean it up...then some gasoline...then sprayed it with carb cleaner....checking CAREFULLY for lint or old RTV pieces.

Got a face full of ATF when I pulled the old filter off. Put some ATF on the o-ring on the new filter and snapped it into place (watch the locator thingy on the other end) and connected the temp sensor.

Cleaned up the gasket surface on the trans with the putty knife and cleaned the surface with gasoline.

Went over the inside of the pan and the trans flange area very carefully...looking for lint or RTV chunks.

My filter kit had a rubber gasket...just laid it on top of the pan and put it into place...putting in all the bolts. Snugged them up to what I thought was a reasonable torque for these small bolts....not much.

Added about 2 1/2 qts ATF...will top it up after driving some. Good idea to have extra ATF with you and get it topped up as soon as you can?

note: fluid was brownish...but did not smell burnt...but there was enough sludge in the pan to make me think it hadn't been changed since new...over 100K miles. The grayish silicone was the only goop that had been on there...so it was the factory stuff.

Intend to redo the pan/filter in a few K miles after using some Lubegard ATF flush chemical....and then do a full flush with 7 qts synth ATF.

......

Dropped the pan again...this is the 3rd time...ended up dropping it...cleaning it...after adding new regular Mercon V 2Xs previously.

This time I cleaned the pan...put in a new Motorcraft filter....then filled with 3 qts Redline synth ATF. I then removed the LOWER rubber coolant line at the driver's side corner of the radiator...put a plastic tube on the METAL part of the line leading to a drain pan...and ran the engine at idle until the old fluid stopped flowing out. Shut the engine off and put the coolant line back on.

* Getting the rubber line off of the ALUM cooler line can be tricky...the rubber is stiff...the aluminum line is soft...take care? I reused the spring clip when I put it back on.

Then added another 2.5 qts Redline ATF to the trans...you need to do this slowly...otherwise you can get a bubble of air in the small tube and have some ATF come back up and spill out.

I also used 10 oz of a trans additive along with the ATF...but still got most of the 6 qts in.

* Will say that if I had it to do over again...I would go ahead and do a full flush using 6 qts Mercon V ($20 + filter)...drive it for 1K-2K miles...and then redo the full flush using the synthetic ATF with new filter. Even with at least 2/3s new ATF and new filter...and the pan cleaned 2XS...I STILL got dirty looking ATF out and when looked at in the sun...it was somewhat metallic looking...meaning it had metal particles still in it.

The pic below shows samples of the old ATF after dropping the pan 3Xs and adding new fluid...~ 3 qts each time. This includes a new filter on the 1st pan cleaning. 1st...2nd...3rd...left to right. The ATF from the last pan cleaning STILL had gunk in it including metal fines that could be seen if the drain pan was set in the sun.




I also put a large neo magnet on the OUTSIDE of the trans pan just in front of the locater "bump" for the ceramic magnet inside the pan. To be useful...this magnet has to be a neo and large for the magnetic flux to penetrate the heavy steel pan. This is to help collect any steel particles circulating in the ATF.
 

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I drained the trans fluid like the book said, break loose one corner, blaa blaa, anyways I drained the old oil in a big drain pan, cleaned the bottom of he tranny and the pan and and added about 6 quarts. the book said it would take 6.9 quarts........... Well, i have leakage, bad leakage. first time with the gasket, 2nd time no gasket just blue rtv, 3rd time grey rtv. still leaking badly!! Oh, when i finally poured the old fluid into a couple of one gallon jugs, I didnt even fill up one of them. less that 4 quarts! But i added 6 qts. Did i screw up my tranny, or what can i do to fix it! I really need help, my driveway is a mess and my wife is PISSED OFF!! Please help, thankx
 

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Well it's important not to bend on the pan when you're draining it, and not to use anything to pry down on the pan. It's hard for us to say what's causing it without being there. You're just going to have to keep working on it.

How are you tightening the bolts to the pan? Bolts should be tightened from the center to the outside in an X shaped pattern. When replacing the filter, I recommend the Purolator gasket that comes with a gasket that has adhesive on the back of it.

Clean the mating surfaces of the pan and the transmission to be sure there is no damage to either. Use a rag.

When using grey RTV, keep in mind that it takes 24 hrs for that RTV to dry. It's written on the box. Mostly manufacturers use grey for assembly. It's superior to black because it retains flexibility better, can be used in place of blue, but has a much longer cure time. For a transmission, you should be using black. Blue is more for coolant, although it can be used in oil seal locations.
 

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Well it's important not to bend on the pan when you're draining it, and not to use anything to pry down on the pan. It's hard for us to say what's causing it without being there. You're just going to have to keep working on it.

How are you tightening the bolts to the pan? Bolts should be tightened from the center to the outside in an X shaped pattern. When replacing the filter, I recommend the Purolator gasket that comes with a gasket that has adhesive on the back of it.

Clean the mating surfaces of the pan and the transmission to be sure there is no damage to either. Use a rag.

When using grey RTV, keep in mind that it takes 24 hrs for that RTV to dry. It's written on the box. Mostly manufacturers use grey for assembly. It's superior to black because it retains flexibility better, can be used in place of blue, but has a much longer cure time. For a transmission, you should be using black. Blue is more for coolant, although it can be used in oil seal locations.
 

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I drained the trans fluid like the book said, break loose one corner, blaa blaa, anyways I drained the old oil in a big drain pan, cleaned the bottom of he tranny and the pan and and added about 6 quarts. the book said it would take 6.9 quarts........... Well, i have leakage, bad leakage. first time with the gasket, 2nd time no gasket just blue rtv, 3rd time grey rtv. still leaking badly!! Oh, when i finally poured the old fluid into a couple of one gallon jugs, I didnt even fill up one of them. less that 4 quarts! But i added 6 qts. Did i screw up my tranny, or what can i do to fix it! I really need help, my driveway is a mess and my wife is PISSED OFF!! Please help, thankx
You can only put 3 qts or so in it if you remove the pan....so you OVERFILLED it? The 2 qts you lost was part of the overfill.

I used a screwdriver and tapped in a front corner and mine popped loose...you don't want to overtighten the bolts or warp the sealing edge of the pan in any way.

I'd say...put a good filter in it...add 3 qts or so...use a rubber gasket....and then try it. They tend to be sensitive to fluid level so it might take a while to get straight?
 

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oooooo I misssed that. Yeah, dropping the pan doesn't drain the whole transmission. Only like 3-4 qts. Do like what Fred said, then while the engine is idling, check the fluid. You might've simply been pumping fluid out of the vent at the top of the transmission.
 

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I am struggling here...

I have a 2007; it has those release clips on the hose. The shop manual says:

Push the connector fitting into the cooler line. Press the yellow release button. Pull the connector fitting off the cooler line.

The clip is blue, and there is no yellow release button. It looks like I push the connector in and then press the blue tabs, then pull the connector off the cooler.

I push the connector in as far as I can (dont know if its far enough, but I cant budge it any farther), then press those tabs and pull but nothing.

Anyone have any tips? Its driving me nuts! What happened to good ol hose clamps?
 

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I am struggling here...

I have a 2007; it has those release clips on the hose. The shop manual says:

Push the connector fitting into the cooler line. Press the yellow release button. Pull the connector fitting off the cooler line.

The clip is blue, and there is no yellow release button. It looks like I push the connector in and then press the blue tabs, then pull the connector off the cooler.

I push the connector in as far as I can (dont know if its far enough, but I cant budge it any farther), then press those tabs and pull but nothing.

Anyone have any tips? Its driving me nuts! What happened to good ol hose clamps?
You're not the only one, I came close to just cutting the line but decided it just wasn't worth it. Filled the 3 quarts I drained from the pan and gave up on the rest.
 

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I recall struggling with that connector for the better part of 20 minutes. I think I finally had to use pliers to get enough oomph on it to get it to release. On the up side, you know it's not going to come off on its own while you're driving down the road...
 

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I gave up on that connector also. Tried all kinds of tricks, but it got to the point where something bad was gonna happen... So I put a drain plug in the pan and will drain it now and then... should have a complete flush in like hmmm 10 months Doh!

I suppose those things save time and ease QA on the assembly line, but for long term maintenance they are the pits!
 

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Nice job! Glad to know there's hope for me to do just about anything to my Hocus Focus :)

Side note/warning to other Focus owners: just a heads up for anyone out there who wants a tranny flush done by the pros-- Aamco and other transmission specialist companies will try to charge you upwards of $300 for a flush and claim we can only use Mercon V, since it's supposedly Ford-specific fluid. Just got mine done by Sears for $100, all parts and labor included.
 

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Nice job! Glad to know there's hope for me to do just about anything to my Hocus Focus :)

Side note/warning to other Focus owners: just a heads up for anyone out there who wants a tranny flush done by the pros-- Aamco and other transmission specialist companies will try to charge you upwards of $300 for a flush and claim we can only use Mercon V, since it's supposedly Ford-specific fluid. Just got mine done by Sears for $100, all parts and labor included.

Just a heads up - Sears will only do a transmission pan fluid exchange and only on cars with less than 100k miles. It's Sears policy not to do pan fluid changes on cars with over 100k miles as "they need a full service and a full fluid exchange/ flush with a transmission filter".

So you are probably seeing the difference in price because they change 2, maybe three quarts of fluid instead of a couple of gallons and the filter.
 
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