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Switched the Switch--No dice

This post is really helpful--thanks! After running the diagnostic I figured it was the brake deactivation switch (which is green btw). But it's still showing three flashes when I run the test, and of course no cc. Frustrating. I wonder if I'm a.) misreading 2 as 3 flashes (the flashes start up pretty soon after hitting set but I may be misinterpreting). Or, if the circuits are messed up. Has anyone figured out how to fix/replace damaged circuits?[bigcry]
 

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I'm in the same boat with an electrical problem in the cruise control operation. The quick fix is no help because I have no response at all. I have checked with Ford dealers and all they would say there is a problem in the drivers wheel well. No guesstimate about the cost to repair. ray
 

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Tried procedure, got 0 flashes after (successful test). I've seen quite a few people mention brake light issues causing CC to not function. Anyone have a knowledge of the operating parameters to tell me whether LEDs would cause the same effect? Full LED conversion in the rear end on mine, bulbs only. In addition, my valve cover gasket has been a gremlin for the past couple months (I've had it off several times), and only noticed CC not working after this. I'd be more knowledgeable about the CC system, but I'm an Acura tech, haven't seen a cable CC to diag in a long time.
 

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Is there a clip or something to keep the plastic at the end of the cable on the attachment point on the throttle? I fixed mine a couple of weeks ago when I found it had just come off. It worked great, kept the speed exactly where it was set. The next time I went to use it it was a no go.
 

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Haven't quite found my exact symptoms on here yet, could use some help...

history:
2003 ZX5
had a bad clockspring for a long time (years) that made my airbag light always lit (and likely inoperational) and cruise control didn't work. finally when I noticed the horn stopped working, I replaced the clockspring and all was well (fixed airbags, cruise, and horn).

Not too long after that got replaced, the cruise started only working intermittently (horn and airbag seems to still work so I'm guessing the replacement clockspring is still good).

Most times I try to engage CC it doesn't work, but sometimes it does. I have replaced the high center brake light with LEDs (regular tail lights are regular bulbs). Had the intermittent CC both before and after the LED change. Seems if it were caused by the LED change then it should never be working.

Tried the diagnostic and I got a light after each button press (including Set), but then no flashes. so does that count as 1 flash (for the one after Set) or no flashes? Also, I did hear the stepper/servo noise followed by thud, as described by some others.

So my initial thought is that it's my steering wheel switches. When I was investigating my previous clockspring replacement, I seem to recall that each switch set (left on/off and right resume/set/cruise) only used 2 or 3 wires and the resistance between them changed depending on the button pressed... Like total of 4 or 5 wires being used instead of 1 common and then 1 signal wire for each switch (5 switch signal wires + 1 common = 6 wires). Does this sound right? If so, can someone tell me what the correct resistances (and between which wires) I should be reading from each button press?

Could one of the brake switches be sticky or would that show up in the diagnostic as a different flash sequence?
 

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HI, new to this forum but i have three Focus (2007 ZX5 SES - 2006 ZX5 SES and 2005 ZXW SES full trim.
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My c/c on the 2005 ZXW is acting up. Here are the conditions after I've read all this:
- all fuses are ok
- main and 3rd brake lights are working
- cable is connected to the throttle body
- diagnosis test gave me no flash after last button (but i might done it wrong)
- c/c light is on when i ride after hitting the SET button
- brake pedal DOES disengage the c/c light
- brake pedal has no effect when i lift it up

any culprits left?


Thanks!


EDIT: ended up the cable wasn't correctly connected into the throttle body.Now it is and now c/c works!
 

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You missed telling us what it's doing wrong, whether you got ANY flashes in the test sequence as described in the first post, or if you pulled on the cruise cable to make sure it's still attached in the module.
 

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Hi sailor, i got no flashes from the test, but i might have done it wrong!!!! As i said, ended up the cable was not connected to the t/b. Now it is. Thanks!
 

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Cruise control inoperative 2003 se 2.3 auto (build date 9/2003) even though it passed the self tests that someone outlined here. Got one blink on all 5 buttons so test indicates it is functional and should work.<br />
Also what is crazy is cruise light will not come on when ON switch pressed but light comes on when SET switch is pressed , but not operative.<br />
On top of that the light goes out if I hit the brakes (normal) Also the light will go out if OFF is pressed (normal) , but remember the light came on with pressing the SET switch, not the ON switch on the left side of steering wheel.<br />
It had been working until just recently.<br />
I'm guessing BPP switch not working preventing it from arming ?<br />
<br />
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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HI, new to this forum but i have three Focus (2007 ZX5 SES - 2006 ZX5 SES and 2005 ZXW SES full trim.
- -
My c/c on the 2005 ZXW is acting up. Here are the conditions after I've read all this:
- all fuses are ok
- main and 3rd brake lights are working
- cable is connected to the throttle body
- diagnosis test gave me no flash after last button (but i might done it wrong)
- c/c light is on when i ride after hitting the SET button
- brake pedal DOES disengage the c/c light
- brake pedal has no effect when i lift it up

any culprits left?


Thanks!


EDIT: ended up the cable wasn't correctly connected into the throttle body.Now it is and now c/c works!
One flash at end of test...accel button...means all is normal.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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Figured out my issue, vacuum leak

I just wanted to give you guys an update on how I fixed my cruise control.

when I did the test, I only heard a winding up of the pedal motor, then nothing. I figured it was a bad module or something. but it turned out to be a vacuum leak. in the picture below you can see the new line, it is right behind the EGR valve. the only reason I knew this is because I through a diag code for it when the car wasnt shifting properly. replaced the line, and the car runs perfect, and CC works!!!!

hope this helps someone else!

http://i.imgur.com/DSbB5XP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aR01bJp.jpg
 

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I have no speed control dash light at all on my 2004 SVTF when I attempt to run the diagnostic. I replaced the reverse lights with LED, could that be the issue? The reverse lights work and they are listed as being on the same fuse circuit as the speed control, number 53, but I wonder if the LED reverse lights are the issue. Any input from anyone?
 

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Old Phart
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LED brake lights (like replacement third brake light) will mess up cruise, never heard of reverse doing that because it isn't included in the actual cruise system.

Only relationship I know of is if the rear lighting umbilical to hatch/trunk has damaged wires.
 

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LED brake lights (like replacement third brake light) will mess up cruise, never heard of reverse doing that because it isn't included in the actual cruise system.

Only relationship I know of is if the rear lighting umbilical to hatch/trunk has damaged wires.
All of my lights work on the rear of the car, so no issues there. My question came up because the speed control is on the same fuse as the back-up lights, hence the reason I thought the LED's could effect the cruise. I was hoping someone had experience with this before. I will switch the reverse lights back to standard and try the cruise and see what happens. I won't have time until next Monday though, so if someone with experience with this wants to chime in, please do so.
 

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2005 Focus ZX4 Duratec 2.0L 5-speed 172K miles

My car has an interesting idiosyncrasy which it has has since I bought it in 2014 with 121K miles. The first time in any day that I go to use the CC I must hold the clutch pedal fully UP with my left foot while I push the ON then SET button for the CC to engage - then I can remove my foot from under the clutch pedal. After that it will work normally (dont have to hold the clutch pedal up) - even if I shut the car off and restart it. The next day I need to do the same one time routine. I figure one of the switches that the clutch pedal engages is mis-adjusted or failing but I have become too programmed to do the once a day 'fix' so I havent done anything about it.

Paul
 

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Old Phart
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Hey Paul, mine was the same way when I got it.

Didn't know until replacing a clutch master cyl. that started seeping that the clutch pedal return spring broke off and was tossed before I got the car. No other issues to suggest that. 1/4" end was all that remained, trapped between pedal bracket & carpet where it hooks up.
 

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Hey Paul, mine was the same way when I got it.

Didn't know until replacing a clutch master cyl. that started seeping that the clutch pedal return spring broke off and was tossed before I got the car. No other issues to suggest that. 1/4" end was all that remained, trapped between pedal bracket & carpet where it hooks up.
Interesting - I will have to take a look at that.

My clutch pedal returns and depresses the (red) switch plunger about 3/4 of an inch but I still can manually pull up on the pedal and depress the switch plunger another 1/4 inch or so.

Thank you
Paul
 

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Well I just took a quick look at it in the dark with a flashlight and I can see that the top hook of the return spring is not in the notch on the pedal arm. So the spring either came off or is broken. I will need to get a better look at it in the light tomorrow.

Thank you again
Paul
 

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Old Phart
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Hey - at least some passed on experience helped this time.

I fixed mine with a brake spring from the junk drawer, weekend job for the master there and no Dealer open to tempt me to order the official one.
 
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