[1turbofocus]

I dont generally use synthetic oils on fresh engines , I will do a good name brand 50wt non synthetic then do about 800 1000 miles normal driving then change to mobile synthetic 50wt

I havent seen where anything special needs to be done for the Cams

Tom

 

[02_z_x_3]

Thanks Tom

 

[focusmaniaczx3]

are you talking like 10w50 tom?

 

[02_z_x_3]

Looks like straight 50

 

[focusmaniaczx3]

huh.... interesting...

 

[1turbofocus]

I can never remember what the mobile oil is , 15/50 ?

Tom

 

[GhostTribute]

Just installed a freshly built bottom end. I will be using a shelf brand non synthetic 10w30 motor oil. with a straight up filter and oil change at 500km. At 1000km I will be switching to a 100% synthetic. By that time the rings will be mated to the cylinder walls and for me that is all that requires any break in. This method was recommended by my engine builder and the same technique I have been using for years.

As far as new cams go. When I broke in my new cams I used a ZDDP additive (CompCams break in additive). It was recommended by both my engine builder and the manufacturer of the cams. So I did what they recommended. best bet is to go with what the manufacturer recommends. When I tore the engine down to have the bottom end built, there wasn't a single mark on any of the lobes or buckets. 27,000km on them..... Take it for what it's worth.

 

[02_z_x_3]

I was asking cause I built the motor myself so I dont have any other recommendations to go off of

 

[GhostTribute]

I was asking cause I built the motor myself so I dont have any other recommendations to go off of

Fair enough, always nice to save some cash when you can. [thumb]

What parts did you use to rebuild the engine? They usually come with a spec sheet that may also give you a break in procedure and any special additive recommendations. If you bought them used, then you can go to the manufacturers website and search for installation documentation. if you can't find anything you could also try contacting them. Forums are a nice place to get instant information, but going to the source is usually more reliable.

Here on the forum you will read 3-4 opinions and members may not always agree what one is the best. Usually you are going to go with the guy who has the most history on the forum. Why wouldn't you? i still say go with the manufacturer.

Other than that, run it like you normally would using a non synthetic 10w30(40). if you are breaking in new cams I would suggest an oil additive. If you live an a cooler climate I would not recommend any of the straight weight oils, SAE 30 or 50, for break in. They don't always do so well in cooler climates. Besides that, there really is no need to use a thicker oil than a 10w30.

 

[02_z_x_3]

I used a basket case of parts. Je pistons ( only used part in the motor) cosworth rods, clevite h series bearings, all arp hardware, cat cams, Pac springs and retainers, cfm billet oil pump. I don't think any two things came from the same place

 

[GhostTribute]

only things you need to be worried about are the cams and the piston rings seating properly.

 

[02_z_x_3]

I'm especially worried about the cams, they're too pricey to mess up.

 

[GhostTribute]

I'm especially worried about the cams, they're too pricey to mess up.

A break-in oil or oil additive with ZDDP is what you need to cure that!

 

[02_z_x_3]

I was looking at brad Penn break in oil. Read some good and some bad so I asked here

 

[1turbofocus]

You dont need a break in oil , I have been building engines for 35 years , from blown alcohol hydros , top willing dirt track , dozens of SCCA national wins and hundreds of SCCA wins and never have I used anything to break in an engine , make sure you have oil psi before you start the engine and your good to go

Tom

 

[GhostTribute]

of all of those "race" associations that you mentioned were any of them Daily driven engines? Or were they all rebuilt during or after every season? How many of them were built to last 300k?

 

[Hardline]

These engines are not like pushrod V8's that have constant pressure on the cam lobes. Our valvetrain has much less mass, and when not opening a valve, there is clearance between the tappet and lobe. The zetec cams don't use bearings, uses the aluminum as a bearing. The lobes are hardened, and nitrided in most cases. Just as Tom mentioned, as long as you have oil pressure, it will be fine.

 

[GhostTribute]

These engines are not like pushrod V8's that have constant pressure on the cam lobes. Our valvetrain has much less mass, and when not opening a valve, there is clearance between the tappet and lobe. The zetec cams don't use bearings, uses the aluminum as a bearing. The lobes are hardened, and nitrided in most cases. Just as Tom mentioned, as long as you have oil pressure, it will be fine.

So how do you set the valve lash on V8 push rod engines?

The 350's and 500's that I have built are all based on a base circle and lift profiles.

So how many degrees of rotation actually have pressure on the lobes with a push rod V8 as opposed to an OHC V8/I4?

 

[1turbofocus]

of all of those "race" associations that you mentioned were any of them Daily driven engines? Or were they all rebuilt during or after every season? How many of them were built to last 300k?

Race engines are not all we build , and I have a US mail jeep that been delivering mail for 15 years and has one of our engines in it now with over 350,000 miles on it with no break in oil used , we have race engines where the owners mentality is its still winning races why rebuild it and thats been 3 years racing weekends now , no break in oils used

its all in how the engines is built and if the engine is built right and tuned properly then you dont need to run break in oils or additives

Tom