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Discussion Starter #1
EDIT: Will a mod please correct the spelling of equipped in the title?

I've seen a lot of questions around the forums about adding navigation to your cars. I've also seen a lot of answers in a few different threads. After going through the trouble of adding navigation to my own car I thought I'd help everyone out and SHOW them how to do it.

Before you get started
This is intended only for people that already have a car with My Ford Touch (the 8" screen). If you do not have MFT you will have to remove your radio and screen to see if the plugs match what's in MFT equipped cars (shown below). Even if they're the same, I can't guarantee they will work. Good luck.

Step 1: Purchasing the right unit for your car.

The first thing I did was visit car-part.com and search for a "TV Screen (see also Radio or Heater/AC Control)." The next screen asks to confirm the unit you need. Keep the default ("Front, display, navigation, (8" screen), ID BM5T-18B955-FA thru FD").

Next, open the Etis Vehicle Lookup website.

Now it's time to start making phone calls. Do yourself a favor and don't call the businesses listed with a price of "Call." It isn't worth it. I called all of them, and the prices are outrageous ($600) or they don't have navigation (this part was just unlucky, I suppose).

When the person answers just say you're looking for a navigation screen for a 2012-2014 Ford Focus. Keep in mind that these guys usually don't know if it actually has navigation. They will all assume every unit does. Ask them for the VIN of the vehicle it's in. They will always have it. Type the VIN in on Etis. Click the link to show the list of all details of the vehicle.

This is where you need to be careful. Make sure the VIN provided lists Navigation (cars without will have a line item "Less Navigation"). If you have a backup camera on your car, make sure the donor car ALSO has a backup camera. Search for "camera." If your car doesn't have a camera, make sure the donor car also doesn't have a camera.

Why is this important? If your car doesn't have a camera but the donor does, when you put your car in reverse you will get an error message saying there is a fault with your camera. If your donor car doesn't have a camera but yours does it won't come on when your car is in reverse.

Once you find a unit with the proper configuration for the price you want to pay, it doesn't hurt to ask the vendor to look for the SD card that should be in the console. 1 of 3 cars I purchased from had the SD card.

Step 2: Installing the unit

Take your time and you won't scratch up your interior.

Looking at the center stack, look just above your shift knob. There is a small, black vent. This is actually 2 vents, with a spacer in the center. That center piece will pop out. You can use a flat blade screw driver, but a trim removal tool is recommended to pop it out. I used a flat blade and was VERY careful. I got mine out without scratching it at all. The piece has 4 tabs on it that hold it in.


The plate covers up two T25 torx bolts. Remove them.


Gently start pulling the center stack out by the bottom. Swing it out like there's a hinge at the top. As you start pulling it out go slowly. There are tabs all the way around that will need to pop out. Be extra careful with the tabs at the top. There are 3 tabs that hold the top of the trim in, and because the trim is thin, you may damage it. Just go slow and make sure you don't try it while it's cold out and you should be fine.

Once the trim is all popped off, it's still being held on by two plugs. One for the door lock / hazard lights buttons, and another for your radio controls.


The radio control plug is easy to remove. Just push down the tab on the top of the plug and pull it off.


The door lock plug is next. There is a tiny tab on the left side (reversed in the image) that is surrounded by plastic. Move that over as you pull on the plug. You can grab both sides of the plug and pull, since the safety clip actually goes inside the plug. My hands are small enough I was able to push the tab over with one, and pull the plug out with the other.


Once the trim is all gone, getting the APIM out is very easy. There are 4 T25 torx bolts holding the APIM to a mounting bracket. Remove them and the 4 T25 torx bolts that hold the whole bracket in.


Next, gently pull the bracket forward. Your CD player and Sirius box will come out with it. If you try to remove just the APIM it will get caught on the dash overhand and may scratch it. Gently pull the APIM forward. You won't be able to get it very far before the cables will stop you. You can unplug the USB cable from the back by simply pressing the tab on top and yanking it out.

The 54 pin connector is easy to remove. There's a tab under the gray latch that you must press down. Once depressed, just swing the latch right off the top. As you pull the latch across, it unplugs the cable.



Plug in your new APIM and start the car. Once the unit powers on put the car in reverse to test your backup camera (if you have one). If you are satisfied, put it all back together.

If the screen doesn't come on after about 2 minutes turn off the car, open the door, and put your old APIM back in. Go shopping for a new unit.

If there is something wrong with the screen of the new APIM make sure it works before doing surgery. One unit I ordered had a cracked screen (dropped during shipping) and even the module on the back was dead. The unit shown here had a scratched screen. Once I was sure the new APIM worked and had the Navigation feature I removed the screen and put the screen from my old APIM on it. To do this, remove the 4 screws from the back of the metal module. Then place the screen down and GENTLY rock the metal module forward and back while pulling. Do NOT pull to the sides, as this will damage the pins in the unit.

Back of the screen:


Back of the module:


Now you need to update to the latest MFT version. You still have the VIN of the donor car, right? Good. Go to the Sync My Ride website and log in (or register if needed). Add a new vehicle. Name it whatever you want and use the VIN of the donor car. Follow the steps to update the software in your car.
 

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+1 Rep! Good HOW-TO with pictures.

Here's the link for MFT 3.6.2: http://www.syncmyride.com/syncmedia/swparts/Gen2v361build13171updatepackageNARev1.zip

Here's the link for MFT 3.7.11: http://binaries.software.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v3713build14122updatepackageNARev5.zip

About the unit's fragility: it's extremely fragile. Behind the APIM, it's written "Scrap if dropped". If you order it online and you receive it broken, use this sticker to cover your a**. Make sure they ship it right the first time in plastic bubble. A lot of bubbles.

By the way, if you experience any vibration / rattle / squeak coming from the radio, it's probably the plastic at the top of the front plate. Since you already have the unit out, you can remedy to this problem easily. Put a 1/8" 3M foam on the top of screen (on the grey frame). This will take care of the noise. Don't put foam all arround the screen!! This will increase the noise and not decrease it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
+1 Rep! Good HOW-TO.

Here's the link for MFT 3.6.2: http://www.syncmyride.com/syncmedia/swparts/Gen2v361build13171updatepackageNARev1.zip

Here's the link for MFT 3.7.0: http://binaries.software.ford.com/swparts/Gen2v3713build14122updatepackageNARev5.zip

About the unit's fragility: it's extremely fragile. Behind the APIM, it's written "Scrap if dropped". If you order it online and you receive it broken, use this sticker to cover your a**. Make sure they ship it right the first time in plastic bubble. A lot of bubbles.
Thanks for the links! Do you have any documentation on 3.7.0? The latest on the Sync My Ride website for our cars is 3.6.2.

Also, he's correct about the APIM. I purchased a unit from a "No Refunds" scrap yard and gave them hell about the destroyed unit. I eventually got a refund, but be very careful buying from these places. There was no physical damage to the circuit board inside the metal casing when I took it apart.
 

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Thanks for the links! Do you have any documentation on 3.7.0? The latest on the Sync My Ride website for our cars is 3.6.2.
Here's what I have found:

ABOUT THE LATEST UPDATE
The new software update for SYNC® with MyFord Touch systems includes all the improvements from previous updates, plus additional benefits such as:
- Map content for Europe and Australia/New Zealand regions
- Mute button for SYNC Navigation prompts added to Navigation map screen
- Estimated "Time of Arrival," instead of "Time to Destination" now shown on map screen
- GPS Coordinate entry (Europe only)
- Right-hand drive occupancy mode Navigation
- Language support for UK English, EU Spanish, EU French, German, EU Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Russian, Turkish, Swedish*, Polish*, and Australian English
- Hazard spot warnings
- Radio
- Digital Audio Broadcasting (DAB)
- Radio Data System (RDS) supportà

Be sure to keep your engine running (not in accessory mode) throughout the entire installation process. Turning off your vehicle during the update installation will disrupt the process. Although your vehicle must be in park when you begin the installation process, you may drive your vehicle while the update is downloading to your SYNC system.

If your vehicle is equipped with the Intelligent Access with Push Button Start feature, you will need to temporarily disable the Automatic Engine Idle Shutdown (AEIS) component before beginning the installation in order to prevent your vehicle from timing out and shutting off the engine before the software update is complete. To disable this feature, use your steering wheel controls to navigate to the Settings menu on your left-hand Instrument Cluster LCD display. From there, select Vehicle >Auto Engine Off >Off. (If you do not see this setting, there is no need to make any changes before starting the update.)

Alternatively, after initiating the installation, you may drive the vehicle during the update process to avoid shutting off the engine. The next time you start your vehicle, the AEIS will automatically reset to "On."
Please note: During the update installation, SYNC will temporarily appear to not recognize your mobile phone or media device. This is normal. Once your system has been successfully updated, SYNC will display a notification stating "Installation complete."
I think they also added more languages to the system. I made a mistake btw, it's 3.7.11. The link above also include French Canadian and American English.
 

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Great information! Thanks for sharing!
 

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Well I just pulled off the swap myself due largely to the information in this and other threads here. Was pretty wonky, off road a lot, for the first while but then settled out and worked great on a 6 hour trip I was just on. Now I'm hoping the APIM doesn't die but since it held up through the half hour software upgrade to 3.8 I think I'm good to go.
 

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I can't get the damn connector loose from the lock button on the dash. No slack in the wire to pull it back very far and make it easier to see. I can push the little button towards the wires, but it doesn't feel like it goes anywhere and my finger slips off. I hate these kind of stupid connectors. I'll probably have to take it to Ford to get it disconnected. I tried putting a toothpick in by the tab to move it over, but that didn't work. I'd already be done with my swap if it wasn't for that damn connector.
 

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I can't get the damn connector loose from the lock button on the dash. No slack in the wire to pull it back very far and make it easier to see. I can push the little button towards the wires, but it doesn't feel like it goes anywhere and my finger slips off. I hate these kind of stupid connectors. I'll probably have to take it to Ford to get it disconnected. I tried putting a toothpick in by the tab to move it over, but that didn't work. I'd already be done with my swap if it wasn't for that damn connector.
I did it without removing the faceplate. It can be done with the right angle.
 

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I did it without removing the faceplate. It can be done with the right angle.
Faceplate? Are you referring to the shroud that goes around the MFT screen and has the radio controls on it or are you talking about the actual door lock button? When you push the little button towards the wires, do you push it down also, or just straight across? I wish there was a picture of the plug behind the lock switch after the power connector has been removed to I can see how that little button functions to lock the connector in place.
 

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Faceplate? Are you referring to the shroud that goes around the MFT screen and has the radio controls on it or are you talking about the actual door lock button? When you push the little button towards the wires, do you push it down also, or just straight across? I wish there was a picture of the plug behind the lock switch after the power connector has been removed to I can see how that little button functions to lock the connector in place.
Well, the door lock button is on the actual faceplate with the radio controls.

Are you sure you are pushing the tab (http://i.imgur.com/WWZJmSp.png) ?

The tab is the little plastic pin inside the plastic on the right.
 

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How is the MFT software now?

Back then it was not worth upgrading... might do it if they improved it.
 

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Well, the door lock button is on the actual faceplate with the radio controls.

Are you sure you are pushing the tab (http://i.imgur.com/WWZJmSp.png) ?

The tab is the little plastic pin inside the plastic on the right.
Yes, I was pushing on the little pin, but it was a no go,. so I took it to the Ford Body shop. One of the techs got it undone for me, but he had to use a small plastic tool because it was stuck. He said it was no wonder I couldn't get it loose. But after all this it was a failure. I got navigation, but I lost the ability to make phone calls via SYNC and use my steering wheel controls for the radio volume. The APIM I got was from a 13, like the one in the tutorial here, and it has two USB plugs, the grey one which isn't used and the black one, my 14 only had one, the black one. And it seems this extra usb separates the steering wheel controls functions. On a 12-13 wheel, there is a paddle to engage SYNC, on the 14 that button is gone, and you use the 4-way circular control on the steering wheel to control volume up and down and radio channel preset and the button in the middle, which on the 12-13 says OK, to engage SYNC functions. So if anyone with a 12-13 that was fully loaded minus navigation, I have the APIM for you. My car has back up camera, that works, parallel parking assist, that works, and the navigation works, I just can't use SYNC , change the volume with my steering wheel buttons, answer my phone from the steering wheel, or move through my radio presets from the steering wheel, and that it because the APIM is from a 13 which utilizes the two USB port configuration. So I'll be putting this up for sale and probably just get mine reprogrammed since it's difficult to find a single USB unit from a 14.[bawling][bawling]
 

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Will an APIM out of say an Escape, F150, etc work as long as it had Nav? I am finding plenty from F150's or Escapes, but not many at good prices for the Focus. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will an APIM out of say an Escape, F150, etc work as long as it had Nav? I am finding plenty from F150's or Escapes, but not many at good prices for the Focus. Thanks!
The F-150 isn't a good idea. It uses a different climate control module, so that quadrant of your screen won't work. I'm unsure of the Escape.
 
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