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Discussion Starter #1
Many people have found problems installing aftermarket speakers in the 2008-2011 Focus. I found an easy way to run speaker wire and amp wire so here is a tutorial on the way I did it.

Materials:
Power Wire
Ground wire
5x7 speakers
2 channel or 4 channel amp (depending on how many speakers are to be done)
remote line wire
speaker wire
Hi-Lo Converter
Fuse
Terminal connectors for power and ground wire
double sided foam tape
electrical tape

Tools:
dremel
socket wrench set
hex key set
star key set
flat head and Phillips head screw drivers

Steps:
1) take apart the dash (center console, left dash, right dash, center dash in that order.)
2) take off the door panels (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166028)
3) take out speakers
4) wire in the Hi-Lo converter into the stereo harness
(Front Left (+/-) = white - white/brown
Front Right (+/-) = white/purple - white/orange)
Be sure to wrap the wires with electrical tape
5)ground the Hi-Lo converter
6) Run RCA cables from HI-Lo through center console or to amp position
7)Connect power wire to + terminal on battery, add fuse, and run the wire through the firewall (there's a plastic plug behind the pedals in automatics which can easily e dremeleled through.
8) run speaker wire from amp along footwell and center console to where the door is.

Now here's where most people get stumped
9) Disconnect the weather proof wire plugs on the doors
10) On the chassis there will be a plastic plug which can be pulled out ( it has some glue or something on it so pry it with a flat tip screw driver)
11) Now dremel a hole into this plug to make room for the speaker wire
12) On the top of the weather proof hose one the door the top has lots of extra room. Pull this out and dremel a small hole for the wire into this too
13) At this point run the speaker wire through the plug, into the hole in the hose and into the door where the speaker or crossover will be hooked up.
14) connect all the wires and add in the speakers
15)replace the door panels
16) run the remote line to the amp from the interior fuse panel located under the steering wheel ( You'll need to look up which fuse to wrap the wire around. I used a ten on the middle left but don't remember why I used that one so be sure to look that up) Be sure to run this wire hidden in the center console or door sills
17) BE SURE TO GROUND YOUR AMP!
18) Hook everything up and double check that all - wires go to - and all + go to +.
19) Connect the stereo harness to the stereo before putting the dash back together
20) Start up the car and dial in the Hi-Lo converter
21) Remount the dash, clean up the mess, and enjoy

Common mistakes-remedies
1) dropping bolts- use magnetized tools
2) speakers don't turn on- check that all wires are - to - and + to +
3) Missing parts- label all parts in sandwich bags or with masking tape
4)Broken door panels... - look up diagrams and forums on how to take them apart properly
5) melting wires/ fire - use proper gauge wire and always ground your amp

Pictures to show the steps I took in my procedure

Dismantle

DSCF1300 by jjandros, on Flickr

Hi-L0

DSCF1316 by jjandros, on Flickr


DSCF1330 by jjandros, on Flickr

Door Wiring

DSCF1320 by jjandros, on Flickr


DSCF1307 by jjandros, on Flickr


DSCF1319 by jjandros, on Flickr

Ground

DSCF1329 by jjandros, on Flickr

Amp

DSCF1328 by jjandros, on Flickr

Re mantle

DSCF1333 by jjandros, on Flickr



BTW. The work to do it is Worth it!!!! I went with Infinity Kappa components and an Alpine Type R in the trunk and they sound Amazing. Shop around and be sure to buy a spool of speaker wire off of amazon instead of an audio shop. They charge by the foot so it's Much cheaper just to buy 50' of 12 gauge speaker wire on amazon. Don't forget ground... or just get an amp wiring kit!

Please post any questions or if there are any pictures you want or anything you'd like clarified.

-Jay

PS. it was extremlely windy while I did this so all the leaves and dirt in the pictures was blown in, it's usually never messy. haha
 

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Boosted HB.
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Good write up.

Could you have the amp output go to the factory harness to avoid the drilling?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You could but I didn't feel comfortable to push 250 watts on those lines. You'd also need some ford stock speaker connectors (you can grab em off ebay for 12 bucks shipped. Just be careful with the stock wires. they looked alright but I don't know how much power they can safely handle. Anybody have an idea on that?

Also if you're only thinking about doing that because you think it can be seen I can assure you that it sits behind the weather hose and you can't even see it when you're getting in. I always recommend rewiring to allow for safe power but it can be done.
 

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Focal Distortion
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good write up.

I did my system a lot simpler, just replaced all the speakers, head unit, and added an amp/sub combo.
 

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Boosted HB.
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Well my last vehicle I owned I ran infinity 2 ohm components all around and ran my 2 ohm 4 ch through the factory harness. They're the same gauge wire as the focus, about 20 gauge. They had no problem pushing 125w rms/250w max to each speakers. Boy did those speakers scream.

I would say you'd be safe to run it through the factory harness
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd go for it then. I wasn't sure what my future plans on and figured I'd knock it all out right now so that if I want to go bigger I'll be fine. And yah man I was Extremely surprised at the quality of these Infinity's. Also I believe that the stock unit is like 1 volt out hahaha. so I'm already planning on getting an MTX q5 to boost the quality, get rid of the Hi-Lo, and boost to I believe 4 or 8 volts on the out. Probably have that in by January first. Give the speakers some break in time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
good write up.

I did my system a lot simpler, just replaced all the speakers, head unit, and added an amp/sub combo.
That's what I did at first too because I hit a wall on not knowing how I'd run the wires. But the stock 25W couldn't push the new speakers worth anything so they sounded about the same as the stock. Now that I amped em they blow the stocks away! Gorgeous sound. And your head unit probably makes em sound better then stock too! I just wanted to keep the dash as is since it's painted... don't feel like color matching...
 

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Boosted HB.
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I have an extra aftermarket dash for a double din. Gotta compliment those components with a nice head unit...
 

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when i had my svt i had a wicked stereo in it and went way overboard rewiring everything. it doesn't hurt to run bigger speaker wire but the stock wiring is more than efficient. when i do the stereo in my 09 i plan on just using the factory wiring. just debating if im gonna use my 3SIXTY.2 and keep the factory stereo for a stock look or just go with a new head unit.
 

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Moved to "Car Audio & Electronics"
 

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The stock HU doesn't have only 1V output. That is your LOC limiting it. You can buy an adjustable LOC and can crank up the output to as far as it lets you. Before I went with a new HU, I used a Scosche LOC-80 and then used a PAC-SOEM4 and that allowed me to have around 7.6V output through each RCA if I wanted. All the LOC does is take the higher level (just say 50V output) and lowers it so RCA's can be used. I've heard that the MTX q5 is good to use also. Never tried it though. If you do get another type of LOC, I would suggest a 4 channel, since the front and rear outputs on the factory HU are not the same. They are both EQ'd differently inside the HU itself, so if you were to measure the speaker outputs of the front, and then the rear, the front would be more. That's why I hated the factory HU lol. The rears never had that much "highs", and just mid-bass.
Also, I just ran wire to behind the HU and used the stock wiring to speakers when I did mine. I was going to run straight to the speaker in each door, but didn't want to drill through the connector just yet since I don't plan to upgrade anytime soon lol. It was a lot easier and the stock wiring is most likely OFC wire, not CCA like most other wire you use, so it can handle higher loads through it. I'm not sure if it is OFC or not, but either way it is good enough to use in most circumstances I would say.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't believe the LOC is limiting very much but it does have distortion at gain as usual (hence the need for a q5). As for the wire I used it was indeed oxygen free. The point of rerunning was for those that want to run more power than would be safe for the HU wires. I understand that most people don't use that much power but the Kappa's and Perfect's can take quite a load. I did notice that HU pushed more to the front which is annoying to say the least. As four the 4 channel that would work for most installs but I like to use 2 2 channel amps (personal preference). Won't be doing that til I replace the stock HU.

The biggest problem I'm having right now is interference in the left woofer and tweeter. I can't figure out what it is. Any ideas? I checked my phone and ran the speakers with the car turned off. The amp wires are grounded and all wires are connected securely on the amp and crossover.
 

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FocusFest Event Team
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in most cars the factory speaker wiring is good to about 75W. since most aftermarket 4 channel amps only do about 50w per channel you should be fine doing it that way.
 

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Well what I meant was that the LOC lowers the output for RCA's. If you had an adjustable one then it would allow you to get higher voltage output than one that isn't. I run Kappa's also and love the sound they give lol.

Interference? Like a ground loop noise? If you turn your car on and rev the engine does it get louder or stay the same? Or does it get louder when you turn up the volume? I had horrible noises with the factory HU. You could try taking a wire and wrapping it around the negative to the RCA's and grounding it. Or check behind the speaker and see if anything is out of place or loose.

The HU also does not fully switch outputs when you hit the AUX button, Satellite button, AM/FM or CD buttons, it will still play some of the others. Mine was bad when listening to my mp3 player through USB and if I turned up my volume and muted my mp3 player, I heard (faintly) the sound of whatever satellite radio station I had it on. Even though it was switched to AUX. Same with the AM/FM. That could have been just a bad factory HU, but I doubt it lol. It only happened once I amplified my door speakers. Hopefully you don't have that issue too?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Summary

This thread is to show if you want more power to the speakers. Right now I'm powering 250W Max @ 4Ohms to the front left and right. So again... for anyone explaining that the stock harness can be used; this is true up to a certain point. Also, it is known that the stock HU can only give a certain amount of clarity (Upgrading to a stock HU reduces distortion on higher outputs as long as An LOC isn't used which is known to distort due to the gain. If you want LOUD, CLEAR speakers... the stock HU won't give the clarity that a nice aftermarket HU will. Also, the stock wires shouldn't be used if powering mass amounts of current,

If the stock HU wants to be kept, something like an MTX q5 will be needed (This will also help with the quality of the bass since an LOC for bass limits the quality severely. Also, for the average person that only wants to amp with 50x4 then the stock wiring can definitely be used and you don't need half the information in this write up. Hopefully this clarifies on that.

And as for my comment on liking to use separate amps that's my personal preference.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interference? Like a ground loop noise? If you turn your car on and rev the engine does it get louder or stay the same? Or does it get louder when you turn up the volume? I had horrible noises with the factory HU. You could try taking a wire and wrapping it around the negative to the RCA's and grounding it. Or check behind the speaker and see if anything is out of place or loose.

The HU also does not fully switch outputs when you hit the AUX button, Satellite button, AM/FM or CD buttons, it will still play some of the others. Mine was bad when listening to my mp3 player through USB and if I turned up my volume and muted my mp3 player, I heard (faintly) the sound of whatever satellite radio station I had it on. Even though it was switched to AUX. Same with the AM/FM. That could have been just a bad factory HU, but I doubt it lol. It only happened once I amplified my door speakers. Hopefully you don't have that issue too?
The interference seems to get covered up when the volume is turned up. And what's worse is that it comes and goes at seemingly random events... I'll try the RCA fix in the morning. As for the HU weirdness I really hope that's not what's happening. But if it is then I'll just have to update the HU sooner then I wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After much trouble shooting it looks like the amp is the problem. Gotta replace. Thanks for the advice guys.
 
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