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That was what I originally thought the problem was, but another user who posted in this thread also has a 55W DDM HID kit, and has no problems.

If you scroll back to post #94, I said that I also tried a 35W kit from another company and the original halogen H9s that came with the headlights, and got the same messed up cutoff.
 

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That was what I originally thought the problem was, but another user who posted in this thread also has a 55W DDM HID kit, and has no problems.

If you scroll back to post #94, I said that I also tried a 35W kit from another company and the original halogen H9s that came with the headlights, and got the same messed up cutoff.
Maybe other owners of these headlights can chime in, but if theirs have other straight singal filament bulbs, they would have no problems using HIDs in theirs.

Had you tried the H9's before adding the HIDs?

I really hope that something like this isn't what happened (red would be the cutoff shield):
 

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The H9s don't sit into the projector upright like your diagram. They also go in horizontal like the HIDs, with the connector facing downward.
 

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andrewsfm - I have no idea why yours is doing that.

Theres my decent cutoff with 35W HID's in the projector housing; the passenger side doesnt have quite a nice cutoff as the driver side; also, as you can see the beam pattern is kinda weird.


Hi beams
 

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I've got a theory going.

If you look into the projector lens itself with an flashlight, you should see a spring which is connected to the solenoid to drop the shield.
Is yours shiny metal, or is it painted black?

I'm thinking that the reflections above the cutoff might be from that since mine is shiny.

Just a thought...
 

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I've got a theory going.

If you look into the projector lens itself with an flashlight, you should see a spring which is connected to the solenoid to drop the shield.
Is yours shiny metal, or is it painted black?

I'm thinking that the reflections above the cutoff might be from that since mine is shiny.

Just a thought...
looks like shiny metal to me
 

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Hmmm... I'm lost then.

I thought it was the HIDs but even the halogen H9s didn't give me that perfect cutoff which they should, since the housing is designed for them specifically.

Anyways, I've got another set of HID bulbs coming. Not that I'm expecting them to make a difference but I can always hope they might help. I'm going back to 6000k since the 5000k don't light up the road markings like my old 6000k did in my reflectors.

LTL0540: You should come out to the Focus meets every other Monday at the Dixie and Aimco Tim Horton's in Mississauga. Maybe seeing mine in person, and me checking out yours will reveal something.
 

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andrewsfm:
I'd be curious to see a pic of the headlights at 20+ ft from the wall.
I will do that as soon as I get a chance. Probably sometime next week when I get back from a mini vacation.

LTL0540: Where is that spring located? Looks like dead center.
Mine is on the far left hand side inside the projector on the driver's side headlight.
 

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Problem solved! Sorta...

I bought some new bulbs from eBay a few weeks ago, and installed them, but they made no real difference. The pattern on the wall was a LITTLE better, but still a mess.

When I had the projectors open to install the new bulbs, I noticed 2 screws right beside the opening for the bulbs. (Just noticed that the original poster's set had 3 screws not 2?!?) From the playing around I did earlier, I noticed that the cutoff looked best when the bulb wasn't fully pushed all the way in. I undid the two screws and discovered that it was just a mounting plate for the bulb socket. I put in a couple of metal bolts as spacers to space the plate (and bulb) further back in the projector, and BINGO.

Have a look...

 

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Here's the closeup before and after shot.

The before shot was taken on my digital camera and with the old 5000k bulbs, and the after shot was taken on my cell phone with the new 6000k bulbs and after the mod.

I think some fine tuning may be done in the future to see if I can fix up how evenly the beam is spread.

Also got confirmation from the distributor, that the 3 screw version was an old version, and the 2 screw version is now new stock.
Beware of the trouble you'll have just like me with the new 2 screw version!



 

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Here's the closeup before and after shot.

The before shot was taken on my digital camera and with the old 5000k bulbs, and the after shot was taken on my cell phone with the new 6000k bulbs and after the mod.

I think some fine tuning may be done in the future to see if I can fix up how evenly the beam is spread.

Also got confirmation from the distributor, that the 3 screw version was an old version, and the 2 screw version is now new stock.
Beware of the trouble you'll have just like me with the new 2 screw version!
Definitely looks a lot better. How many spacers did you use? I know the HID bulbs are a bit longer than the halogens, so maybe spacing it out just a bit will fix the beam spread. Mine have a good few dim-spots that are a bit more noticeable driving on roads with no street lights [scratch].
I"ll have to give this a try soon.

edit: I just noticed also you're using 55W bulbs in your projectors.
how are those, brightness/temperature wise? i wouldnt mind some brighter headlights :)
 

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Definitely looks a lot better. How many spacers did you use? I know the HID bulbs are a bit longer than the halogens, so maybe spacing it out just a bit will fix the beam spread. Mine have a good few dim-spots that are a bit more noticeable driving on roads with no street lights [scratch].
I"ll have to give this a try soon.

edit: I just noticed also you're using 55W bulbs in your projectors.
how are those, brightness/temperature wise? i wouldnt mind some brighter headlights :)
I used nuts that were bigger than the screws as spacers. Bigger so the threads didn't interact. Maybe 2-3mm thick?

If you have the projectors with only two screws beside the hole for the bulb, you definitely need to do this. If you have the 3 screw version, I don't know if this will make any difference but you can give it a shot and see what happens. Maybe use standard washers, and stack them up so you can try various gap heights. I'm gonna try this some time in the future and see if I can tweak the beams.

HID bulbs themselves are longer, but if you hold a H9 halogen and H9 HID bulb level with their bases, you'll see that the gap in the HID is in the exact same spot as the filament on the halogen.

As for 55W HIDs, they are bright as hell. You wouldn't want me behind you dropping the glare shield and flashing my highs unless you've got some DARK tint...

If by temperature you mean color, I'd say get 6000k. My 5000k weren't impressive. They seemed almost with a tinge of pink in the white. But HID colors vary SO much from brand to brand. The 5000k were from DDM surprisingly. My new ones are from an eBay seller who advertised TRUE 55W HIDs and not overdriven 35W bulbs, claiming that the xenon gas chamber on their bulbs was larger. After seeing them when I got them, they really are larger enough to notice.

If you're talking about thermal temperature, then think of this...
The projectors were designed for H9 bulbs, which are 65W.
55W HIDs use 10W less, and not all of the power is dissipated as heat in the bulb like a halogen filament would, cause there's a ballast which is putting off heat during the voltage conversion process.

I just received my IR thermometer from eBay the other day, so I can take a temp reading if you're looking for exact numbers, but I have no halogens to compare them against.

Come out to the focuscanada.net meet if you wanna see them.
 

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Help!!!!

While installing these my halos and leds along with all the turn signals front and rear are blinking like the hazards are on. also my hids do not work on low but do on high any suggestions?[:(]
 

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The only thing you can do wrong with these headlights is plug the parking light connector in the wrong way.

Disconnect them both, and then plug the first one in, and then when it's working right, then move on to the second headlight. Don't connect both at once until you have solved the problem with just one connected.
 

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Thanks to all of you guys on this thread, I have spent the money I started saving for a new firearm on these headlights and a black grille(which I had before but it got cracked in a hit and run--stupid non driving JMU students haha) I will post some pics when I get them(because obviously I'm going to stop everything I was doing to install them haha). You guys rock!
 

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So my set of these arrives on Tuesday, and I'm leaving work early to see if I can install them before my apartment manager finds me. So excited! I've already removed the grill and headlight assemblies before, so it's just a matter of getting the LEDs and halos plugged in correctly (and getting that spring clamp at the bottom locked in).

The question I now have is in regards to HIDs for these projectors. I checked out the ones at ddmtuning, and was thinking of picking up this H9 35W 5000K kit to replace the halogens that come with the new lights. However, I'm not sure if I need a HID harness. I already read that I won't need the error code eliminator or adapter cables, but that harness is what's confusing me. Can anyone tell me if I need the harness (I'm guessing no)?

I also wanted to verify whether or not I need to buy some sort of holding bracket for the ballasts, as I'm not sure how or where the heck I'm going to mount those bad boys.

If anyone else has recommendations for other easy install HIDs (35w is what I'm looking for), I'd also consider those.

Edit: The DDM Tuning installation guide for these HIDs recommends mounting using their provided double-sided tape. I also read on FJ that people have been mounting their ballasts underneath the headlight assembly. I think I'll use the tape and drill some holes in the plastic headlight "shelf" so that I can also zip-tie the ballast on there. I'd hate to have the tape give out and I lose my headlights.
 
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