agreed but...N/A is much more of a learning experience if you do it all yourself. It is also quite an accomplishment when you smoke a car and you pop the hood and all you see is a motor with no turbo or sc.going all N/A is very expensive, you'd be better off getting a turbo.
A stage 1 can should improve your power pretty much everywhere.I posted this (most of it anyway and have read the dyno page in this thread) in the Dtech owner's lounge under ST crew
I wonder where I could check to give me some solid advice about how I should go about what I am trying to accomplish...I really do enjoy 32+ mpg's on the hwy, but I would like to have stronger performance from idle to about 7k rpm's when I want it... sorta like "on tap" when I may need it... Nitrous or turbo just ain't gonna happen.
Would cams improve my 157.08 whp @ 6250 rpm's and 155.69 wtq @ 4500 rpm's (torque curve is 140 wtq @ 2250 rpms - 140 wtq @ 6000 rpm's) - with it peaking above 150 wtq between 3250 rpm's and 5250 rpm's. I would like to see the peak numbers in the mid to upper 160's for both whp and wtq. Is this possible with moderate cams (no matter what stg 1 or 2, I am going to use the stronger valve springs and retainers, in the case of stg 1 so I can run up to my 7k redline (adjustable cams gears if necessary, even for stg 1's if thats even an option for them) The only reason I mention stg 1's is because of the mpg's are just as important as any moderate power gains. As is obvious for all who see what I post and my questions it is evident to all that I am very uniformed in such automotive areas.
I have checked a bazillion threads and haven't gotten any solid evidence or better yet an understanding how cams will really affect my hp/tq. I do get cams help air flow which equal more power and possible better mpg's...
Here's a list of the modifications thus far: KN CAI, 67mm TB, b/s delete, VF rear MM, F2 v3 header, 2.5" exhaust w/Vibrant 15" resonator (2.5" internal dia.) + Magnaflow muffler, FRPP suspension, SCT X3 93 oct custom dyno tune.
I know so little about modding that all this is becoming a headache [?|] , but these would be the absolute last mods I would do...so are the numbers within reason?
To think this all started when I told someone I was putting in the FRPP T2 diff and was told I needed a CM or EX stg 1 clutch (seeing how the clutch will be removed to put in the torsion diff. and would help hold the additional power I now have or so I was told). Then the Crower cams were mentioned saying I would be wasting my money to put in the clutch/T2 diff without more power. The kicker is the T2 torsion diff was originally going in as an improvement in safety (don't have traction control, but do have anti-lock brakes, i.e. driving in wet or slick conditions, around bends and up and over small hills to keep both wheels turning if one lost traction....geesh
P.S. How do I actually post my dyno sheet?
out of an all motor, stock bottom-end,2.0 duratec? and what would be the best parts to do so?[scratch]