[2.0D-Slo-cus]

out of an all motor, stock bottom-end,2.0 duratec? and what would be the best parts to do so?[scratch]

 

[TKE_Quailman]

I think the number is sumwhere around 210

 

[Spinal]

going all N/A is very expensive, you'd be better off getting a turbo.

 

[SVT_BMXer]

I would guess around the 180-200whp mark.

 

[streetracer]

2.0 stock bottom end?

maybe 175whp/165wtq

youll need everything possible. new exhaust, intake, headers, intake manifold, 2.3 ford racing head, underdrive pulleys, injectors maybe, and a fantastic tune.

 

[focusboy5]

going all N/A is very expensive, you'd be better off getting a turbo.

agreed but...N/A is much more of a learning experience if you do it all yourself. It is also quite an accomplishment when you smoke a car and you pop the hood and all you see is a motor with no turbo or sc.

 

[ktwelsch]

I agree.... I'm NA and I have learned so much.

But it is REALLY expensive.

So it depends your finnancial situation really.

 

[focusboy5]

I agree.... I'm NA and I have learned so much.

But it is REALLY expensive.

So it depends your finnancial situation really.

Yea I am on my way to full N/A but it is a long road....money doesn't grow on trees.

 

[honhon]

180hp/155tq

and hey... i bet this thread will help in solving questions, in how to get the most power.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101159

 

[TommyBlackST]

I posted this (most of it anyway and have read the dyno page in this thread) in the Dtech owner's lounge under ST crew

I wonder where I could check to give me some solid advice about how I should go about what I am trying to accomplish...I really do enjoy 32+ mpg's on the hwy, but I would like to have stronger performance from idle to about 7k rpm's when I want it... sorta like "on tap" when I may need it... Nitrous or turbo just ain't gonna happen.

Would cams improve my 157.08 whp @ 6250 rpm's and 155.69 wtq @ 4500 rpm's (torque curve is 140 wtq @ 2250 rpms - 140 wtq @ 6000 rpm's) - with it peaking above 150 wtq between 3250 rpm's and 5250 rpm's. I would like to see the peak numbers in the mid to upper 160's for both whp and wtq. Is this possible with moderate cams (no matter what stg 1 or 2, I am going to use the stronger valve springs and retainers, in the case of stg 1 so I can run up to my 7k redline (adjustable cams gears if necessary, even for stg 1's if thats even an option for them) The only reason I mention stg 1's is because of the mpg's are just as important as any moderate power gains. As is obvious for all who see what I post and my questions it is evident to all that I am very uniformed in such automotive areas.

I have checked a bazillion threads and haven't gotten any solid evidence or better yet an understanding how cams will really affect my hp/tq. I do get cams help air flow which equal more power and possible better mpg's...

Here's a list of the modifications thus far: KN CAI, 67mm TB, b/s delete, VF rear MM, F2 v3 header, 2.5" exhaust w/Vibrant 15" resonator (2.5" internal dia.) + Magnaflow muffler, FRPP suspension, SCT X3 93 oct custom dyno tune.

I know so little about modding that all this is becoming a headache [?|] , but these would be the absolute last mods I would do...so are the numbers within reason?

To think this all started when I told someone I was putting in the FRPP T2 diff and was told I needed a CM or EX stg 1 clutch (seeing how the clutch will be removed to put in the torsion diff. and would help hold the additional power I now have or so I was told). Then the Crower cams were mentioned saying I would be wasting my money to put in the clutch/T2 diff without more power. The kicker is the T2 torsion diff was originally going in as an improvement in safety (don't have traction control, but do have anti-lock brakes, i.e. driving in wet or slick conditions, around bends and up and over small hills to keep both wheels turning if one lost traction....geesh

P.S. How do I actually post my dyno sheet?

 

[fhg959]

Does N2O cancels out N/A?? If not, proly a 100 shot of nitrous and you are set [hihi] (if and only if, stock internals can handle it)

 

[Lil_RedZX3]

I posted this (most of it anyway and have read the dyno page in this thread) in the Dtech owner's lounge under ST crew

I wonder where I could check to give me some solid advice about how I should go about what I am trying to accomplish...I really do enjoy 32+ mpg's on the hwy, but I would like to have stronger performance from idle to about 7k rpm's when I want it... sorta like "on tap" when I may need it... Nitrous or turbo just ain't gonna happen.

Would cams improve my 157.08 whp @ 6250 rpm's and 155.69 wtq @ 4500 rpm's (torque curve is 140 wtq @ 2250 rpms - 140 wtq @ 6000 rpm's) - with it peaking above 150 wtq between 3250 rpm's and 5250 rpm's. I would like to see the peak numbers in the mid to upper 160's for both whp and wtq. Is this possible with moderate cams (no matter what stg 1 or 2, I am going to use the stronger valve springs and retainers, in the case of stg 1 so I can run up to my 7k redline (adjustable cams gears if necessary, even for stg 1's if thats even an option for them) The only reason I mention stg 1's is because of the mpg's are just as important as any moderate power gains. As is obvious for all who see what I post and my questions it is evident to all that I am very uniformed in such automotive areas.

I have checked a bazillion threads and haven't gotten any solid evidence or better yet an understanding how cams will really affect my hp/tq. I do get cams help air flow which equal more power and possible better mpg's...

Here's a list of the modifications thus far: KN CAI, 67mm TB, b/s delete, VF rear MM, F2 v3 header, 2.5" exhaust w/Vibrant 15" resonator (2.5" internal dia.) + Magnaflow muffler, FRPP suspension, SCT X3 93 oct custom dyno tune.

I know so little about modding that all this is becoming a headache [?|] , but these would be the absolute last mods I would do...so are the numbers within reason?

To think this all started when I told someone I was putting in the FRPP T2 diff and was told I needed a CM or EX stg 1 clutch (seeing how the clutch will be removed to put in the torsion diff. and would help hold the additional power I now have or so I was told). Then the Crower cams were mentioned saying I would be wasting my money to put in the clutch/T2 diff without more power. The kicker is the T2 torsion diff was originally going in as an improvement in safety (don't have traction control, but do have anti-lock brakes, i.e. driving in wet or slick conditions, around bends and up and over small hills to keep both wheels turning if one lost traction....geesh

P.S. How do I actually post my dyno sheet?

A stage 1 can should improve your power pretty much everywhere.

 

[Lil_RedZX3]

out of an all motor, stock bottom-end,2.0 duratec? and what would be the best parts to do so?[scratch]

Contrary to what some have posted, you are probably looking at 150-160whp.
The stock bottom end limits what you can make. Stage 1 or 2 cams, full exhaust and intake should net you around that power.

 

[2.0D-Slo-cus]

why does the stock bottom end limit the power output?

 

[streetracer]

getting a cossie intake mani, ford racing 2.3 head, and tune should add a few more to the 150-160whp lilredzx3 talked about..

stock bottom end limits power because if you are doing all motor, you arent changing the comp. ratio of the engine. 10:1 isnt bad, but if i was to do all motor, id want around 12:1. that would add alot of power. plus youd have new lightweight rods and pistons.

 

[warneej]

i jumped from 28 to 34mpg on the highway by building my motor. If you really want power on tap, power all the way up to 7k, and better efficiency (=better mpg) you NEED a cosworth intake manifold. That also means swapping your P/S reservoir for an 05 or earlier one.

as for posting your dyno sheet, you must upload it to a site such as photobucket or flickr and then copy and paste the

code into a reply

 

[TommyBlackST]

money tree.... money tree.... oh money tree... anybody seen my money tree...

I can afford a cosworth intake manifold about like General Custer could afford more indians...

I thought the 2.3 head flow pretty darn good...and when I say power on tap...I don't mean a screaming monster... I just meant when I pushed the accellerator I wouldn't need to downshift to get more umph, so to speak...

thanks for the photobucket info...truly appreciate that...

EDIT: My first attempt at photobucket: http://s425.photobucket.com/albums/... ST/?action=view&current=CurrentDynoChart.jpg

 

[honhon]

Does N2O cancels out N/A?? If not, proly a 100 shot of nitrous and you are set [hihi] (if and only if, stock internals can handle it)

N20 is considered force induction.

 

[TommyBlackST]

I have to borrow my niece's or sister's digi cam so I can put up some pics at photobucket...I can't believe my link works... yee haw a new adventure begins!

N2O, Turbo no go for me... I just wish the cosworth IM wasn't necessary for me to get a "little power on tap" and a lot of benefit out of the cams I choose and do stage 1's need adjustable cam gears??? ...I am gonna put the valve/retaining springs to get the full benefit from this mod so as to be able to run the full rpm range of idle to 7k, just to be safe...

EDIT: I've been listening and learning from many here and I have decided just because someone told me I need the stg1 clutch right now to enjoy my T2 diff. doesn't make it true. I don't have the money...cams will come later...I just don't have a money tree out back...dang it!

 

[streetracer]

i was saying the ford racing 2.3 head because it flows much better than the 2.0 head. yes the 2.3 flows better than the 2.0 though i believe as well