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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday, on the way home from the grocery store, my car started revving up with the cruise set. I thought the road might have been really slippery. I slowed down and continued home without another thing out of the ordinary. Today, as I was going to the Dr., I noticed light slipping in the higher gears (huh?) with no sign of slipping in 1st or 2nd.

While trying to figure this out, at the next stop I made the tires spin (not hard in the snow) and I kept an eye on the tc light and tach. The engine was revving when the tc was applying the brakes. [:(]

So, I have $10.46 in my checking account and $4 in my wallet. My spare car is now down for a tire, clutch cable, and a gas leak (only when tank is full). Not to mention the exhaust is hanging by wires. Do you think I will be able to get to/from work (22 miles one way) upto THU?

I can tke FRI off to diassemble and see what is needed. I am no hearing any clunking or rattling, so I am assuming it will just be a disc and pressure plate job. If I need a flywheel to, well, let's just say I'll need to figure out alternative transportation for a month. [mecry]
 

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typically a clutch will start to slip in the higher gears. Lower gears are easier on the clutch due to gear reduction in the trans. in higher gears you have the most resistance to accelerate and so there is more force on the clutch. i would say that it doesn't have long till it wont pull at all. once they start to go down hill they get worse very quickly
 

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The bad thing with the svt having the dual mass flywheel I believe you really can't machine it or recommend it. I wouldn't recommend slapping a clutch and pressure plate on a used flywheel. I wish this would've happened sooner. I just threw out my used svtf flywheel,clutch, and pp. That could've gotten you by for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
typically a clutch will start to slip in the higher gears. Lower gears are easier on the clutch due to gear reduction in the trans. in higher gears you have the most resistance to accelerate and so there is more force on the clutch. i would say that it doesn't have long till it wont pull at all. once they start to go down hill they get worse very quickly
I'd have thought exactly the opposite. I'd have thought there to be more pressure on the clutch system trying to get the car moving from a dead stop. I guess that would go back to my youth when the only time I paid attention to a slipping clutch was when I couldn't do a burnout anymore.

But, it does seem to prove out this way. It is my higher gears where slipping is pre-dominant. I drove it an hour ago and the slipping is worse, so I am taking some vacation time until FRI when my checking account has more money in it, then I am going to fix my spare car since it will be cheaper and the SVTf will need to wait until I have enough to do the job right, in which case, I'll go with a 10lb. Exedy pressure plate and matching clutch set.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
LUK sells a stock replacement with flywheel:

$600 but im sure u could find a cheaper price elsewhere.
Well, that certainly is convenient, but I've decided to fix my spare car first since it is cheaper. Since I need to save for this repair anyway, I am going to get a lightweight Exedy flywheel and matching clutch set. I was planning doing suspension this summer, but it looks like the clutch is the necessity, so the suspension will need to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got a LUK set with flywheel on ebay for around 425
That's a good price. If I miss my car too much, I may get that instead if the Exedy parts. However, the Exedy parts are about $600 through
Massive and a lighter flywheel will allow faster revving. I was going to do a clutch upgrade after the suspension, but it seems I am going to need to change the order in my plan.

I drove the SVTf earlier and the clutch was already so bad I've arranged for vacation days for this week. I am out of money until payday and even though I have 2 cars, I have no transportation. The Subaru needs a tire and a clutch cable before it can leave the driveway. For a little over $100 I can have it driveable and it should last until I replace the clutch/flywheel on the SVTf. If I screw some creditors for a month, I could have the SVTf back in about 4 weeks. I hate this economy![thumbd]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The bad thing with the svt having the dual mass flywheel I believe you really can't machine it or recommend it. I wouldn't recommend slapping a clutch and pressure plate on a used flywheel. I wish this would've happened sooner. I just threw out my used svtf flywheel,clutch, and pp. That could've gotten you by for a while.
Well My clutch is shot. If I have to save $400+ for a stock flywheel and clutch kit, I may as well save an additional $200 and get a lightweight flywheel and clutch/kit. I was looking through my notes and I had decided a few weeks ago while I was window shopping online, that I'd use a Competition Clutch forged 10 lb flywheel and an Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit. Through Massive, this combination is $600.

What clutch/flywheel combination did you go with? Are you happy with it?
 

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any SVT focus clutch thread is of interest to me...

I have the same exact concern for my 02 Sonic Blue SVT Focus named Jellybean. Pretty please can I have simple instructions on exactly what I need to do? a something of another from massive is good i can google a place called massive and find and buy... but where do i find someone who knows what to do with it?

will any "need mechanic" respondent from craigslist suffice?

Jellybean appreciates it. I'm in Orange County, SoCal...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
a something of another from massive is good i can google a place called massive and find and buy...
Here is a link to Massive:

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/Store/Product/Vehicle.aspx

I am personally going to lightweight flywheel, but massive has an Exedy flywheel in an oem size and weight.

If you go to a solid flywheel, shifting is supposed to get a little noisier and more solid. From what I understand the dual mass quiets and smooths out the shift. I don't understand why Ford would put such a thing on a high performance vehicle in the first place.[nutkick]

but where do i find someone who knows what to do with it?
I'd stay away from Craigslist. Talk to people you know and find out who they like to work on their cars. An SVT is just another car, albeit one loaded with a bunch of high tech crap. Choose a mechanic by reputation, not an ad online.

If you lived in SE Wisconsin, I could give you a couple of names of good mechanics.

Good luck,
Mike
 

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I just replaced my old setup with an oem LUK replacement. I'm a mechanic at a fleet in Green Bay and we are a Napa truck parts center. I could get the parts through them for a good deal, so I went that route. This was for my old sonic blue svt, and I have another one now. I'd like to replace the clutch next year with a south bend setup. That dual mass setup just rattles and makes a bunch of noise haha.
 

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Clutch talk 2

wonderful!! ok - so the lightweight flywheel is more racy - does that make the OEM flywheel more long term reliable? i'm not at all racy [:I] - well - to put it another way i more want a happy and reliable Jellybean than i want a faster bean.

and is the variability on the flywheel? i seemed to find a "clutch kit" and a "flywheel" as separate things - makes sense?

and then finally... i have no doubt that a professional can buy parts cheaper than me - however the pro could mark up the parts. should i buy parts myself at all?

thanks very much Mike and anyone else who knows this stuff for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wonderful!! ok - so the lightweight flywheel is more racy - does that make the OEM flywheel more long term reliable? i'm not at all racy [:I] - well - to put it another way i more want a happy and reliable Jellybean than i want a faster bean.
That was why I suggested the OEM spec flywheel. The heavier flywheel makes for smoother shifting. Due to the high weight (generally about 16-18lbs, BTW) of the factory spec flywheel the engine doesn't slow down radically between shifts, making shifting less jerky. A lightweight flywheel requires getting used to, but once you do get used to it, the lighter flywheel allows the engine to rev up/down faster. Plus, with less weight for the engine to turn, the less horsepower it requires to make the engine to run, freeing that HP up for having fun with.

The thing in particular Is to stay away from re-using your original dual mass flywheel or replacing it with the same. Ford released a technical service bulletin in OCT 2004 about clutch problems being created by this fancy design flywheel. The factory flywheel is several pieces and, I believe, has springs between the components. More moving parts, more chance for trouble.

A solid flywheel that is the size and weight of the original dual mass monster, will feel nearly identical when you shift, but will likely not need to be replaced again if you have the car long enough to need to replace the clutch again, the way the dual mass unit needs.

and is the variability on the flywheel? i seemed to find a "clutch kit" and a "flywheel" as separate things - makes sense?
A clutch kit contains: pressure plate, friction disc, throwout (release) bearing, a pilot bearing, and a line up tool. The pressure plate is the part the moves when you step on the clutch pedal. When you press the pedal, a lever that has the release bearing on it pushed down on the "fingers" (multiple small levers) of the pressure plate allowing the friction disc to float between the pressure plate and the flywheel, essentially breaking the connection between the engine and transmission.

The flywheel is a large round plate the bolts on the end of the engine's crankshaft. This plate also has gear teeth all the way around the diameter. The clutch set bolt on the face of the flywheel. The gear teeth are what the starter motor uses to turn the engine over.

The flywheel the factory put on the car was designed to make your shifting feel smoother and quieter (auto makers put a lot of effort into making cars quieter), as well as smooth out the engine vibrations you feel. All this makes tons of sense for a car that is 100% luxury. For a high performance car, like the SVT, it was just plain silly. [screwy]

OEM weight and size will give you basically the same feel when you shift as the dual mass unit did. If you are really sensitive, you may feel your shifts being a little more firm than they used to be and you may notice a little bit more engine vibrations in the steering wheel, etc. All in all, Jellybean should not only be happy now but you'll be happier next time you change the clutch (if Bean is around that long), because you'll only need to change the clutch, not flywheel also.

and then finally... i have no doubt that a professional can buy parts cheaper than me - however the pro could mark up the parts. should I buy parts myself at all?
I usually buy my parts myself. I've worked as a mechanic and an engine builder and I find the discount the mechanic gets isn't really that much more than the average person gets. When I take my car to a mechanic, they don't bitch about my buying my own parts, they just put them in for me.[wrenchin]

thanks very much Mike and anyone else who knows this stuff for the help.
Your welcome. [:)]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
SophiaAnanda, how long have you been driving Jellybean on a bad clutch. Sounds like a little while. Mine just started giving me a hint it needed to be changed, and 3 days later, it was undriveable. This baffles the hell out of me. I've driven other cars up to 2 months after giving me a warning, and then I changed it out because I could afford to, not because it would no longer drive.
 
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