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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #1
Posted here, cuz I need the DT guys to see this, not the general public lol. Unless its the same procedure for the Zetecs??? Or is the ST different from a 2.0? I know our disc systems are different. Brake systems are not my strong suit. I want to put THESE in. From what I know, I will be needing to bleed the brakes to do that.

Now, on my other cars, I had to follow a pattern, say, the LF, then RR, etc. I have no idea if there is some special procedure for a manual bleed on these cars. So, someone who is in the know, please tell me. Obviously I searched. Stuff I found didnt give the exact procedure. I titled this thread so that it would come up in future searches, to help others.

I am thinking I can just hit the pedal until the new fluid comes through the bleeder valve, right? But can I do the fronts together? Rears? Not sure if there is a portioning valve, etc.

Thanks.
 

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Most new cars follow independant brake lines per each brake. This is typical in cars with ABS. I have always followed this way of bleeding my brakes, LF-RR-RF-LR (cross-pattern) bleeding pattern. It has worked for me for a long time now.
 

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You normally would start with the brake that is the farthest away, passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front and finally driver front. This is from the Haynes Manual, Chiltons Manual and the AllData system.

Personally I built a brake bleeder out of a chem sprayer and a spare reservoir cap. You can pressurize your entire system and bleed your brakes by yourself, as well as, flush the entire system. No more pump, pump hold for the wife/ son.
 

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^ I have a vacuum pump for that.

Brakes have always had single lines going to every hydraulic piston- AFTER a proportioning valve. Even in dual chamber master cylinders the line for the front or the back eventually went to a proportioning valve. I've not seen it any other way. In ABS systems the ABS pump is the proportioning valve as well as the pump.

For ABS systems, you should not force fluid backwards though the system, as how I've always done brakes by opening the cap on the master cylinder and pushing the caliper in. Instead you have to open the bleeder and allow fluid to exit the caliper.

As far as bleeding goes, it always works best to start furthest away from the master cylinder, but it will work starting closest also. The only difference is that every once in a while you'll end up with air in one of the long lines to the rear inhibiting rear brake performance that you might not ever notice because they don't do much anyway.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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bleeding is easy, check google for instructions, it is no different for your car vs any car ever made
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #6
okay guys, thanks. that is what i figured, but just wanted to make sure.
 

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Make sure you use the correct wrench on the bleeder, don't try an djustable wrench or anything. I replaced the calipers, rotors, and pads on my ZX3 about 2 months and had to bleed everything. Make sure you don't run the reservoir dry and have good communication with the person pushing on the pedal. Tapping the caliper with a wrench or something LIGHTLY will sometimes produce small bubbles that you didn't see before.

Bleeding brakes isn't that hard, just take your time and try not to spill the fluid all over yourself or the ground, it'll burn after being on your skin for a few minutes.

Hope this helps!
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #8
im just gonna have some place do it. i forgot that i cant do it on my street. hazardous, and illegal.
 
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