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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best way to remove the flywheel from the engine when its pulled from the car? I could put the cam shaft tool in to keep it from spinning but that might cause the cam shafts to break...don't want that. Any ideas or tips would be nice.

I don't have an air impact easily available. (would need to barrow a compressor from a family member) I have a 18" breaker bar I am trying to use.

Thanks!
 

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FF's Night Security
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Rent a flywheel holder tool or have someone hold the crank pulley bolt while you try to loosen but I don't know how effective that will be or even if it's a good idea. I know you can rent the tool and get all your money back which is win win.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #4
when i did my tranny swap i just held everything with the crank pulley bolt.
Completely overlooked the crank pull bolt...Thanks!
 

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C2H5OH
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Or use 2 wrenches. One to loosen the other to hold a bolt on the FW.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #6
Its amazing what you can do when you have two 18mm sockets... had to borrow one from my in-laws. for some reason Craftsman sockets have a different range for their normal and their deepwell.

Is it common to have the bolts covered in oil when being removed? it was not gushing, but all the threads where coated in oil and there was some oil dripping down the flywheel and once removed a little on the surface of the crank.

My guess (assuming when I get home tonight there is still no oil on the crank surface) that the bolts might have just wicked up oil... or the oil was there when the flywheel was installed 4 years back...
 

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shouldn't be any oil, or atleast mine never had any oil on it. i would check the seal thats behind the flywheel.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #8
shouldn't be any oil, or atleast mine never had any oil on it. i would check the seal thats behind the flywheel.
Doing a full rebuild... so I will make sure I look at the oil pump and get good seals when I rebuild.
 

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oil pump is on the pulley side of the block. and i would get a full bottom end gasket set and just do everything when your in there
 

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Used the two wrench method myself.
And I know from experience that some if not all of the bolt holes in the flywheel end of the crank go all the way thru, so I wouldn't surprise me to have some oil on the bolt threads.
 

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C2H5OH
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1,000 words and all ...



(pic via Google)

The reddish seal is the Rear Main.
That is the only place oil might leak from and the only seal you might need to replace in the bottom end of the block ... along with the front main which is behind the timing gear on the timing belt side.
The windage tray gasket can be reused, use RTV on the corners.
There is no gasket for the oil pan, use RTV.

I don't know if the bolt holes in the crank are through or blind.

Also because I'm thinking of it and now realize it might be some of my issue, in the center of the crank is the Pilot Bushing. It might be a good idea to replace it too.
I think mine might be sloppy and that might account for my jerkiness at low RPM, input shaft moving slightly.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #12
This is what mine looks like...



I think I am in need of a new rear main regardless of my rebuild...
 
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