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yeah those esslingers........350 a cam my arse!!!!
 

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405 lift
258 duration
Allinall a good starter cam..It will fit with out notching the head. The cam is 275.00 but the spacers needed are 75.00 With this cam you can adjust your exhaust to free up more power provided you have the cam gears.A 2000 intake or( better style) and some type of exhaust. I have my old one here if There might be any takers. I haven`t thought of selling it before but now I have the high pref head and a jrsc....So all is good here in the hood.

Sorry I just read the specs again on your car...This is a good starter cam..But I found the crane stage two a lot better.[B)]
 

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I have the Crane stage 1 and I like them a lot. The rpm range is about the same as stock, but there's noticable hp/tq increase. I drive in a lot of stop-n-go traffic, so I didn't think running a higher rpm range would be suitable for me since I already feel like I'm racing from one light to the next anyways. Bumper-bumper traffic also sux with high rpm take-offs, but you have an auto, so that may not be a problem for you. If I was going all-motor, I'd have probably gotten stage 2, but I plan to supercharge later.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice. If I can, I think I will try to get the Crane stage 1s. It sounds like it should be all I need.
 

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Crane's stage 1's are like $405.00 on their website...that included tax and shipping (for me anyways...question it if they charge extra, but they were friendly and didn't seem like they'd rip anyone off intentionally).
 

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can anyone please explain the specs on cams to me please? i don't fully understand what they do. stage 1 seems to be what i might be interested in, but if a stage 2 has a little more performance in certain areas i might want that. any help is appreciated.
 

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Cams are the link between the valves and the crank timing.-Essentially-
Lift is how high the valve will open
duration is the lenght of time it will remain open
face angle is the quickness the valve will open
For ultimate performance the angle is steep-the lift is high-and duration is long. But with these performance needs come along with heaver springs and stronger seats and retainers to keep the valves from floating..So if you whant to be agressive start with the head and work up through the seats grind angles-the valves with three angles then heavy springs with titanim retainers then get the nastiest cam lift avalable..Or go mild stage 1 or 2 and just get springs on the stock valves (stage 2) hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have heard that to keep a normal idle on midly modded motors, you should stick with stage ones. Am I right?
 

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I had a rough idle from stock and my cams/gears straightened it out for me (gears alone may have done it). I don't know if this is common, but I'm liking the h*ll out of it...my car use to stall too, but doesn't anymore. I think you have to raise the idle on stage 2 and above if that's what you mean by an abnormal idle. Also, you don't need anything (springs, etc.) with stage 1 cams. All you need is the cams and the grease that comes with them (for initial startup), and a set of adjustable gears. In a perfect world, the gears aren't needed, but you'll want them.
 
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