Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Have you guys ever had a problem some days where you are just having the hardest of a time taking off in your car? Yesterday for some damn reason I don't know if it's change in the weather because it's nice but my Focus was bogging down really bad off the line like something was wrong with it. My buddy was like dude what's up with your car man. On top of it on my way back home I smelt like either brakes or my clutch or something was like burning or to hot. My buddy said it smelt like brakes but I don't know if it was my clutch or not. today though it seems to be driving today it's not bogging bad I mean yeah it doesn't have any low end like always but nothing like yesterday.Maybe you guys can help me out or something, it kinda freaked me out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
maybe your e-brake locked up slightly, or it could be the gas you put in. or maybe your running a little lean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I usually always use my e-brake with it in first gear when I park should I not use at mcuch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
i always use it, but if you pull hard enough on the handle, it can stretch the cable. then when you release it, it wont release becuase the cable wont push back becuase it is to lose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I don't yank up on my e-brake that hard at all. For some damn reason when I take it to the shop they do, I can barely get it down. But I just pull it up a couple of ticks. Should I just have my e-brake tightened then because it does come up a little bit higher than I would like it to? What do you think that smell was can your brakes make that smell? I mean it started to do it after I punched it a little not hard just a little 2nd gear run through. But it was weird the car was just slow and lazy but today so far no problems. I hope it wasn't the clutch I have 33,000 on it.
 

·
The Librarian
Joined
·
13,116 Posts
Clutch and brakes (burning) are very similar in smell. It's hard to tell the difference.
Course, if you smell it at the back of the car and not the front, that definitely points to the rear brakes.

I mean it started to do it after I punched it a little not hard just a little 2nd gear run through.
That sounds like clutch to me.
Watch the tach next time.
If the tach goes up, and your speedo stays steady, that's a sure sign of a slipping clutch.[:(]

You can adjust the ebrake by pulling up on it while backing up.
I just coast backwards down our driveway, and pull on the brake hard to come to a complete stop.
Usually, that'll give me about 2 less clicks to get it to grab after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah it was strange I don't think I'm having any type of clutch problems. My speedo wasn't staying the same it just felt like my car was running a little slow you know. But she does that sometimes when I drive around Ann Arbor in the city when I try to rip on her a little she doesn't want to kick in the butt as much. As to the smell I'll tell ya it did smell like a clutch a little but I don't understand how because I didn't even do anything to make it smell.
As to what you said about the e-brake that's pretty cool I didn't know that, so you just back down the driveway and then yank up on the e-brake and that will actually make it tighter without having to manually tighten it down?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
One more thing WD-40 about the clutch slippage or bad clutch issue. My clutch doesn't slip or anything like if I hit it from a roll in 1st I mean she goes, sometimes the only thing I worry about is the position of the pedal. It seems like the pedal is getting higher to engage and in between gears. I have never had a car long enough to know how clutches break in or anything so is that normal? Should I be looker for other things? A new trans was put in at 7000 miles and I have 33000 miles on it now. So I mean only 26000 are on it but after listening to everyone on here say that our stock clutch doesn't last worth a damn I never know when the life is up. Thanks for the pointers I appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
It sounds like it could be a brake / clutch problem, I had my clutch replaced after it started the dreaded clicking noise. Slipping wise I could only get it to slip if I tried to gunn it off the line.
But now 15,000 miles later I am having problems with the car bogging. Still haven't found the problem but it appears to be computer / electrics related. I am slowly going through each step of problem solving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Like just problems with the PCM or what?? I know they had to replace my PCM for stalling and what not and it was running fine. It was running good today as well but my only complaint is that the clutch just doesn't feel as responsive as it used to. It used to let off right away and now it's more towards the top. Who knows I'll just drive it till it dies.
 

·
The Librarian
Joined
·
13,116 Posts
Clutch pedal postion:
Before I had my clutch replaced (slipping) the pedal was way at the top before it would grab.
After the new clutch was installed, it engaged a lot closer to the floor.
In fact, after 22,000 miles on that new clutch now, it still engages pretty close to the floor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Yeah my clutch just felt like a normal clutch worked fine until I tried to go hard from a light on an on ramp. Reved up to 4000 ish and dropped the clutch, no tire spin and a automatic style transition. On replacement they told me I must have been hard on it (racing). I handed them the TSB and basically told them to shut up (I drive like a nanny). The replacement clutch has been bomb proof for the last 20,000 miles. Straight away the engagement was insanely close to the floor but after about a week it wore in and came on about 2 inch's (normal) and its been the same ever since. Now it will wheel spin with about 2500 -3000 drop (if I try which isn't that offen) on old tires. If you havent had the clutch TSB done and your car is 2003 or older I would put it at number one thing to do. Listen for the tell tale sign of the clicking tapping noise of the clutch at idle, that is what proved my clutch TSB.

Ps. I'm still not completely convinced that its the clutch. (as my car didn't bogg at all)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
WD-40 I did that e-brake adjustment and it actually worked. I mean it's not like holy crap really tight but it did engage better after a few less clicks man thanks. Well I was driving around all day today and it really wasn't doing any bogging out of the ordinary. Like you said about leting off at the top it is slowly letting up higher bit by bit. Today for instance my foot slipped on the clutch and the damn pedal came up half way and I didn't even move so I just let out slow from there and took off. So I'm sure soon enough it will be at the top and I'll need a new one. But I just cleaned her up and took her out for a nice "spirited" cruise and there was no slipping or times when the speedo wasn't going up but thanks for the info on everything man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
WD40 said:
Clutch and brakes (burning) are very similar in smell. It's hard to tell the difference.
Course, if you smell it at the back of the car and not the front, that definitely points to the rear brakes.

I mean it started to do it after I punched it a little not hard just a little 2nd gear run through.
That sounds like clutch to me.
Watch the tach next time.
If the tach goes up, and your speedo stays steady, that's a sure sign of a slipping clutch.[:(]

You can adjust the ebrake by pulling up on it while backing up.
I just coast backwards down our driveway, and pull on the brake hard to come to a complete stop.
Usually, that'll give me about 2 less clicks to get it to grab after that.
WD, that's the self-adjuster mechanism inside the rear caliper piston, right? I thought that would self-adjust whether you're going forward or back.

Are you confusing this with how to get the self-adjuster on drum brakes to work - that did require you to go in reverse and then brake fairly hard - ?[
 

·
The Librarian
Joined
·
13,116 Posts
WD, that's the self-adjuster mechanism inside the rear caliper piston, right?
I thought that would self-adjust whether you're going forward or back.

Correct.
I just found that hitting the e-brake in reverse is much more effective and quicker. [;)]
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top