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Discussion Starter #1
So long story short... I've had a few problems with my alternator since I purchased my car, and had it replaced once already. It's going out again and the dealership won't replace it again b/c I have a Amplifier hooked up to it (it's a KX400.2 Kicker 400 watt amp), which supposedly is "over-powering" my charging system.[scratch]

I just purchased a NEW Bosch High Output Alternator for my SVTF, from Drivewire.com for $139.71 (that'll be after I turn in my old one for a core charge) and the shipping was FREE. It will be producing 200amps[80?] vs. the stock 110amps. Just seeing if anyone has any experience with this paticular item, to see if it was a good buy or not.[???:)]
 

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man welcome to my club lol, ive had 5 alternators in less then 10months, seriously. and all i had on it was a KX250.2 kicker amp and ive had both ford and duralast alternators and they al kept burning up, still dont know why, good luck man
 

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Wow that is really strange!! So the stock alt is 110 amps! Wow thats pretty high and it still keeps dieing?? I had a 94 Saturn SL2 before my SVT and I had put a 3000 Watt system in and was running off of a menacing 96amp Alt!!!! And that 96 amp was not a stock delco part ( think I got it at Autozone or Kragen) The stock one was 84 amp I think and it got replaced twice kept dieing to, and then I got the 96 amp. Never had any problems with the 96amp and had it in for a good 2 years. Ford must be using crummy Alts then if a small kicker amp is frying it. Pretty sad. Good to know in case I decide to put my system back in.
 

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Funny I followed the link to Drivewire

And it looks to me that the 105 amp remanufactured alternator is $139.71 and the 200 amp alternator is $670

Looks like you bought the 105 amp by mistake.
 

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Dathlok X said:
Funny I followed the link to Drivewire

And it looks to me that the 105 amp remanufactured alternator is $139.71 and the 200 amp alternator is $670

Looks like you bought the 105 amp by mistake.

I was going to say the same thing. at 200 amp alternator for 139.71
Thats cheaper than a stock replacement.
 

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if youre having trouble with the alternator, then it sounds like you've got other issues, too.

get a capacitor and an auxiliary battery, that should lighten the load on the alternator some.
most of the wear on an alternator comes from it having to engage/disengage too often.

hope the input helps.
 

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actually a secondary battery will put extra strain on the charging system as its trying to now charge twice as many batteries.
 

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no extra strain on the alternator by adding a second battery, unless youre draining them twice as fast.without the second battery, the alternator can go through twice as many cycles of charging/idling, thus causing premature wear and tear.

this is how it's been explained to me a couple times, but go ahead and ask installation pros and mechanics alike. don't just take my word for it. similarly, these forums arent intended to be a pissing contest of who knows more - we're here to help, not discredit each other's advice (unless someones way off base)....moving on:

$120 for a battery, and another $150 for a good cap is still much cheaper than you'd be paying for that 200A alternator - a good compromise. these will dampen if not all but eliminate sudden voltage drop when you have your system running full throttle, which will also help preserve numerous other electronics and electrical components in your vehicle.
i have a 640W kenwood pushing 2 12's at full capacity, on top of the stock audiophile 8" sub, hids, and a few other electrical components inside the vehicle, and I've yet to change my alternator...and all I have is a 1000W rated capacitor for the subs. i've drained the battery once, but that was my own fault for not starting the car to recharge soon enough.

it's also noteworthy that if you run your components with the engine off, make sure you don't have the ignition set to the 'on' position, as this runs current to the alternator that will not only drain the battery faster, but will risk even more wear and tear on the alternator itself

again, hope all this extra info helps you out, topher
 

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bcae1.com - Charging System Upgrades

DarwinSays said:
$120 for a battery, and another $150 for a good cap is still much cheaper than you'd be paying for that 200A alternator - a good compromise. these will dampen if not all but eliminate sudden voltage drop when you have your system running full throttle, which will also help preserve numerous other electronics and electrical components in your vehicle.
i have a 640W kenwood pushing 2 12's at full capacity, on top of the stock audiophile 8" sub, hids, and a few other electrical components inside the vehicle, and I've yet to change my alternator...and all I have is a 1000W rated capacitor for the subs. i've drained the battery once, but that was my own fault for not starting the car to recharge soon enough.
The extra battery part is correct. (if you ony listen to music with your car off)

Battery + Capacitor is not a good compromise, it's a quick fix to a larger problem. (if you only listen to music with your car off)

Your Kenwood amp may truly supply the power you say, but how much current does it draw? If your total (total is equal to the current draw of all devices) current demand is with-in range of the alternator, then you will not have a problem, regardless of how "electrical components" you have or how many giga-watts your sysem is.

The best way to find out if you need a more powerful alternator is to borrow or buy a decent True RMS Clamp Ammeter and measure the current draw on the amplifier (car off, battery full charge). If it exceeds the amount of current the alternator can supply and your listening style with the car on is the same with the car off (as tested) then you will need a new alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
More Problems

Well since all this drama started... I returned the supposed 200Amp alternator back to Drivewire.com (which I don't reccomend dealing with). Long story short they have the price for the 200Amp alternator as 139.?? and when you clicked to purchase it, it would take to you the page for a 105Amp refurbished alternator.[confused]

I went ahead and purchased the PA Performance Alternator from CFM. I installed it... and after about 2 months it was already starting to crap out on me!! I had one of my friends who is a district manager for ACDelco have it tested: At idle it was producing 28Amps! WTF?!?! and at 2500RPMS it produced a maximum of 80Amps!! [?|]

I called Pa Performance and they want me to send it in so they can take a look at it... and take it from there.

I removed the alternator this morning to find a small pile of metal shavings under the alternator and on the back side of it... so I'm thinkin something was rubbin inside and messed it all up...

Here you can see in the bottom left, the metal shavings. Looks a little like dirt
http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photos/photo02/46/71/1546aa51137c.jpg?_rh=vdnj7xzgjgs4jwpstuody3gg
Here's a little closer look of the metal shavings
http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photos/photo04/16/f7/527563b87077.jpg?_rh=3pzmb2oxm5o2mmo1yic6oalu
This one's hard to see. You're looking at the Alternator Cradle. On the back side you can see that decent size dark blotch. That would be the metal shavings aswell.
http://www.tmobilepictures.com/photos/photo06/48/7a/422bbe3dec5b.jpg?_rh=lsqrwn48zu2k5nasjf9jupb6

I was hopin this alternator would fix my problems I've been havin... I guess I'll see what happens from this point.

Sucks I won't be able to drive my car for a week or two[rolleyes] I'll keep you all updated... till then... I might hold back on purchasing a PA Performance Alternator[
 

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I had a similiar problem last month. Had Goodyear put in 3 alternators in 2 weeks. Found out myself that the ground to the battery was no good and the "mechanics" had no way of checking my electrical system. So i did the Big 3 upgrade.

Ask PA performance if you need to change the pulley ratio for the alt. I know some high output alt.'s need a different ratio to adjust rpm of the alt.
 

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I'd start looking at those Kicker amplifiers. 2 guys with Kicker amps having alternator problems [confused] I currently run 3 Audison amplifiers pushing over 2300 watt RMS. All my previous systems have been over 1500 watts RMS. The car is over 4 years old with the stock alternator.
 

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installman said:
I'd start looking at those Kicker amplifiers. 2 guys with Kicker amps having alternator problems [confused] I currently run 3 Audison amplifiers pushing over 2300 watt RMS. All my previous systems have been over 1500 watts RMS. The car is over 4 years old with the stock alternator.
Right, might be Kicker's Amps pull more current than other amps in the same class.

I already have +2300 watt RMS system in a stock alt and everything is ok but lights dimming at very highs.

I'll be asking others with Kicker Amps and let you know. Luck
 

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installman said:
I'd start looking at those Kicker amplifiers. 2 guys with Kicker amps having alternator problems [confused] I currently run 3 Audison amplifiers pushing over 2300 watt RMS. All my previous systems have been over 1500 watts RMS. The car is over 4 years old with the stock alternator.
If you re-read my post, you'll find that my problem had nothing to do with the alternator. Also, my car is 6 years old and i got 90,000 miles on the stock alternator (the regulators usually go out at 100,000 miles anyway).
 
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