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I have the maintenance schedule for my '13 Focus and have been following it. I just got anew job though with a courier company and I am going to be putting 560 miles a day, 4 days a week on that car. Is the recommended maintenance schedule still good for high mileage like this? Like, should I do certain things quicker than normal? Like replace the belts and hoses?

Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Captain TMI
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Hoses are more of a matter of time regardless of use, so just keep inspecting it, and when the hose feels soft- replace it.

The same goes for belts. The belt should last longer than a mileage replacement recommendation, but not nearly the 10 years that a sitting belt should last.

I don't remember Ford's oil change recommendations. All modern oils with the API sticker are supposed to retain their properties for 7500 miles. That includes dino oils. Full synthetic oils tend to last around 10k miles. This is under normal operating conditions with no overheats, misfires, or other auto engine maladies. I once tried Amsoil, the 25k mile oil. I found that you needed to add oil to nearly all vehicles at about half a quart at 10k miles. Keep that in mind.

Also, for your financial sake, go to Office Depot and get a mileage record book. It doesn't matter if the company gives you fuel you can still deduct a tidy sum with a proper mileage log. I think the current rate is like $.52 per mile, so your 560 miles is good for $291 daily in deductions. The only time you can't take this money is if the company compensates you for your mileage, but I am unsure how it works if they pay less than the Fed rate. That might be a way that they can rip you off since they would be paying you say 35 cents per mile, but getting 52 cents from the government.
 

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I have the maintenance schedule for my '13 Focus and have been following it. I just got anew job though with a courier company and I am going to be putting 560 miles a day, 4 days a week on that car. Is the recommended maintenance schedule still good for high mileage like this? Like, should I do certain things quicker than normal? Like replace the belts and hoses?

Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.
If you head to page 322 and 332 of your Owner Manual, you'll see updated information for different conditions.

Meagan
 

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Old Phart
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You've got some figuring to do to use the car commercially like that.

Probably should do a service every two weeks, tire rotation & check over at each with an oil change monthly. I'm assuming some longer trips are involved, not all local.

As Whynot suggested, there is a lot of planning for the expenses & tax implications to make it work out.

For time critical use, you're looking at trading for a new car every year (prob. minimum 120k miles/yr). Figure a set of tires and a full brake job into the planned maintenance expense as well.

Try to stretch that to 2 years use and repairs/downtime including paying for a rental when out of service adds up fast, plus no trade in value left to speak of. Might not even be able to try for that depending on how critical the schedule.

Can't guess at the answers without more details, just giving you things to think about.

(I've done commercial trucking, different but there are similarities)
 

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I would be willing to bet that no way can that type of job work out to be profitable (for YOU not them), the company has given out another one of those 'good' jobs we hear so much about now from the lying politicians.

If not making more than $20/hr. there CLEAR after the costs are deducted no way can that pay off, the car time alone is worth $10/hr. easy and not even touching driver needs like food, rent, the usual. They have essentially taken your car away from you for their own use. With that much demand they should be making payments to you THEMSELVES for the car THEN for your wages. SEPARATE.

At 60 mph average you are still solidly at a 10 hr. day of nothing but 100% driving. You can't even use the bathroom there. Take ALL of the car costing out to find out how much they are paying YOU alone and divide by that 10 hrs. to get your pay per hour, I bet the number will be utter crap. But you gave them your car.

Car is WAY off into severe service there and spending your weekends to maintain it now. In Arizona the equivalent of towing at least a light load. You'll be at 2 1/2 tire changes a year with 50K mileage tires. All hoses close to the same if you are looking for 100% no stranding in the middle of nowhere. Oil/filter at 10K every 2 months. Front brakes around 33 weeks or so. Ridiculous. I bet driven like that the car does NOT make 240K miles before serious issues develop.

What does your car insurance jump to with them knowing about what you are going to do there? You just went to driving almost 100%, rates jump hugely for that. If a normal company your insurance just doubled easy.

At trading in every two years you must make enough to have car paid for in that two years or the next one you went backwards on, they will give you nothing for the ultra high early mileage.

Years ago I did a HARD look at car costing for 100 miles a day, it came out to a rock solid $3.50 an hour in lost wages alone over a job only 10-15 miles 2 way. I QUIT that job ($21+/hr.) over that alone to go to one @ $18/hr. and 5 miles one way, and made more money, imagine what your real costs are there. I'll let you do your own math there.

IRS deductions don't even think about making up for that. Not even close to real world cost there.

I personally feel you've been suckered, you actually almost do as well with no job at all and still have a car that runs.
 

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I've been driving commercially for 20+ years. I bought a new '01 Focus for a high-mileage run like yours, financed it over 4 years, and it performed beautifully. I swtiched runs, but still ran it up to 394 000kms before parking it after ten years in favour of another Focus with AC, cruise, and less mileage. In fact, some of its parts live on in the current Focus. I hope the newer one treats you as well as mine have.

I was doing synthetic oil changes once a month, and rotating tires every second month. I did front brakes about once a year and only ever did the rears once...but I engine-brake, so there was less wear than normal, plus the run was mostly highway. I kept mostly to the maintenance schedule, and it worked out fine. Unless you're in stop-and-go traffic most of the time, I wouldn't worry about adjusting for heavy service.

I'm not sure how amc49 thinks you've been "suckered", since he has no idea how much you're getting paid. Deductions make a big difference. Here in Ontario, I get the full HST (13%) tax back on all my fuel, repairs, maintenance, etc. That's in straight-up money from the government. Then I get deductions from my taxable income for meals, office expenses, business use of home, etc. I'd bet there's a similar deal in AZ. Talk to a local accountant...it'll be worth spending an hour on his time for him to set you on the right track.

And make sure you have a "slush fund" for car repairs. Lots of couriers have to quit because they spend their whole cheque without putting anything aside for repairs, then have a non-running car with no way to make money to fix it. Catch-22.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Leora83..........Thank you for that.

Yes, the mileage is a good 90% highway. The oil changes and rotations schedule sounds right......but it's really good to know that following the maintenance schedule will more than likely result in close to 400,000 miles of use. I hit a rough patch a few months back and had to neglect my usual mechanic for about 30,000 miles, but I'm back on track now.. I'm actually starting to lean in favor of a transmission and/or engine swap every 200,000-400,000 miles .

With the taxes, I can opt for the gas, mechanical, etc.... deductions, or the mileage only. I'm opting for the mileage. it's at .56c per mile this year.

Thank you for the advice......very helpful.
 

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Old Phart
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I hear ya, in AZ it won't rust out but an engine & trans. at 200k would be reasonable (assuming you do that well, no history on these current automatics though with Hwy use it could go that far).

Lots more to replace regularly with loads of miles, it would get into full suspension not just shocks/struts for example.

NEW engine/trans wouldn't be cheap enough to be cost effective, trans alone without clutches ran one member $5k for replacement for the automatic.

I'll stick with my original comment, at 120k miles/yr. for a job that requires dependability only a replacement annually makes sense.
 

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And with the quality of engine/trans replacements today? Odds are very long of not repeating whatever the original goes, most of those are looked at as one year use and normal driving at that. I'd look at AZ heat as a loss of 15% in engine/trans life. Here in Texas it comes out to say up to 10%.
 
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