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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I now have most of the basics for my 13 second list:



zex 82021 nitrous kit and Massive Speed System fuel rail adapter arrived today.

MSD 8969 window switch will be here friday.

Also on the list:

zex remote bottle opener
zex racer tuning kit (the one with the purge, bottle heater, pressure gauge and blowdown tube)
zex blue led for purge.

I might not get them all before my cams get in, but we shall see.

Now my main concern is getting a lightweight flywheel/stronger clutch combo (I'm pretty sure I'll be calling up MSS for some parts on this one) and breaking rod bolts/conrods. I'll bet with the 75hp jets I'll be pushing mid 200's hp/tq with the cams, etc. I wish I knew about where the stock rodbolts/conrods give.

I hope to see mid-low 13s (if my clutch holds) with the 75hp jets and my drag radials. We shall see.
 

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Nice setup. Keep us posted of your results. [thumb]
 

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set the purge up on the side of the car agnled up so you can pull a brian o'conner and blow up girls skirts
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, we started the install tonight. I didn't have much time before work, but we did get the nozzle threaded, the Zex solenoid box thing, and...well that is about it. Had to make a few little mount things, but otherwise it was fairly easy. This setup is actually going to be stealth.

I'll post pics when I get it all in, but the only way someone that is not paying attention will realize what is up is if they look at the bottle in the hatch. Everything else will be stock looking, and black.

:) I'm getting excited, and I have a few races lined up (SRT4 and 2g eclipse with swapped 1g engine and goodies)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, here is my install as of now. I need to finish wiring my switch, clean up my underhood wiring, hook up my tach signal wire (- coil to window switch), mount the bottle, and run the nitrous feed line. I also plan on painting the battery bracket black.



This pic shows the whole thing as it looks with the battery cover on. You can kinda make out the Massive fuel rail adapter, but I have camoflaged the fuel line.



Here it is with the battery cover off. As you can see, I have room for the battery, window switch, and nitrous solenoids in this location. We had to weld up an aluminum bracket to hold the battery in and give mounting locations for the nitrous stuff.



This last pic shows the nozzle location. I think this might be the only part I don't make stealth, as you can hardly see it without a bright light or a camera flash.
 

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looks good...let us know the results of those races!
 

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You are doing the same mods I plan on, thanks for being a pioneer for us!!! I hope everything works smoothly.

Oh and thanks for posting all the parts you have, so we know what to order one day.

One more thing, what plugs did you switch too? And what tune are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am using ngk tr6 plugs, and I had randy at focussport do a nitrous tune for me. The parameters I gave him were fix all my junk (no rear o2 sensor, no top speed limiter, early fans, changed idle), but leave the ignition stock -2 degrees, unless he had a better way to tune it.

With the tune, plugs, and higher octane fuel, this should be very safe.
 

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if i had a nitrous setup, i would pull a fast and the furious, and create a hole in the bottom of the seat and have it to where it would lift up, thats where iw ould hide my bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well, I'll just put mine in the hatch. I have a 10lb bottle, and I go for quanity mostly..lol.

As long as I never open the hatch, no one will ever know (and the police here don't really seem to care as long as you aren't using it at the time...). I could do the F&F thing, but I would have to find a small enough bottle.

as far as price:

Massive Speed System fuel rail adapter: $83 (included pressure gauge)
Zex 82021 wet nitrous system: $509 shipped
MSD 8969 digital window switch: $99 shipped
NGK TR6 plugs: ~$4
FS nitrous tune: $25

So far, that is $720.

I also plan on buying the zex racer's tuning kit - includes blowdown tube, bottle heater, bottle pressure gauge, purge kit ($250), the remote bottle opener ($169), and the blue LED setup for the purge ($69).

All total I am looking at $1208, totally installed the way I want it. The fun part is, I have the basics to make it work safely, and now will just be getting the stuff to make it how I want it. I can buy it a piece at a time. All of the other junk will have to wait until after my cams get in. Then we will be looking at a full bolt on (as far as what I can buy right now, clutch and flywheel not included), cammed, and sprayed car. Low 13s should be withing my grasp easily with my drag radials.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another update: wiring (minus the throttle position sensor piggyback) is done. I had that hooked up at one point, but a not starting issue (tracked down to a faulty clutch safety switch) caused me to disconnect everything to troubleshoot.

Here is what I learned for those of you going this route:

Imagine you are looking at your coil. A wiring harness hooks up the othe coil. there are two wires in that harness. One should be green, one green with a black stripe. Now imagine you are looking at the coil from above, with the wires at the bottom of the circle. The gree wire should be on the left, the green/black on the right. Tap your white wire (rpm lead) from your MSD 8969 into the green wire with a clip on wire splicer. Make sure your MSD 8969 is set to 1 cylinder mode, and when you start the car, you should get the proper RPM reading on the face of the MSD 8969.

Now for the rest of my wiring. In order to use the MSD 8969 window switch with the zex system, do as such (for the final installation):

take the power (red) wire from the zex module and hook it up to the positive terminal of the battery. Take the ground (black) and join it temporarily to the yellow wire coming out of the MSD 8969. Using a clip splicer, hook the white wire from the zex module up to the middle wire on your throttle position sensor. Connect the ground (black wire) of the MSD 8969 to a good ground location. There should be a few bolted grounds near the battery on the drivers side of the engine bay. They bolt into the frame.

Now mount an activation switch (toggle/missile fire style is easiest, particularly to know if it is on) somewhere in your cab. Join a wire to the red wire of the MSD 8969 and run it to the switch. From the switch, run another wire back to the positive terminal of the battery. Make sure your RPM (white wire) from the MSD 8969 is connected properly, and flip the switch. The MSD 8969 should come on, and should start to display the rpm (a number X 100). If the rpm shows up, you are good there.

When you run the wires from the engine bay into the cab, the way I did it was to run it through the hood hinge area and then I ran it under a piece of foam in the door jam (to hide it). From there I ran it through the weather stripping (I poked a very small hole) and then under the dash. It is not visible in the cab, and you have to look for the wires really hard to see them elsewhere. It is in no danger of getting crushed by the door closing.

Now disconnect the yellow MSD wire from the black Zex wire. Connect the black zex wire to a proper ground. The zex unit should now come one (you shuold see a light come on). Program the unit for full throttle as shown in the zex manual. Reconnect the zex ground wire to the yellow wire from the msd.

You are now wired properly. When you flip the switch, the window switch will come on. When you get to the proper RPM, the switch will ground the zex module, powering it on. When the zex module sees a wide open throttle condition, the nitrous/fuel will spray.

You know what, I think I'll just make a nitrous how to for the duratec and get it added to the how to section.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Disregard my wiring, I had to install a relay. My setup was making my idle sit around 1600rpm.

Things that broke for the track today:

Leaky fuel rail adapter, lead to broken o ring. Fixed that.

Nitrous tune made the car not even start, flashed back to the stock tune for less aggressive ignition timing for the nitrous.

Nitrous line exploded. Kinda wierd, cause the line was right next to some rubber lines. I would think that if something could hit a braided SS line while driving and damage the structural integrity that much, there would also be damage on the rubber. Maybe a manufacturing problem?

So...that sucked. Maybe better luck next time. My car was SLOW last night NA anyway...way slower than usual. I don't know what was going on. I have never run anywhere near those numbers since it was stock, and I was pulling horrible slower than stock times on drag radials....maybe my driving was off cause I was in such a sour mood after all my shit broke.

Just thought I would bitch a little..rofl/
 
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