[Wheemer]

Hello;

I went out to start my car last night and it wouldn't start, and it sounded different.

I checked through the oil filler and the cams are not turning when I try to start it.

I'm pretty sure the timing belt broke or stripped.

I've done searches but cannot find a link for timing belt replacement. Does anybody have a working link or a PDF they can send me?

What are the chances I didn't bend valves? Car wasn't even out of the driveway.

I'm hoping I can put on a new belt and try to start it.

What are your opinions?

 

[Wheemer]

I got the pdf... any other thoughts would be good though.

 

[bbcobra]

a bent valve is a high possibility on these cars. You never know though. You could get a belt kit and go through the timing procedure and give it a try. Dont turn it over any more for sure.

 

[Wheemer]

I called a local part supplier and they only list one DOHC motor... Is the timing belt the same as the SVTs?

 

[drunkyoda]

you might be ok if your cams were not turning. and you should look at your timing belt first.. take off the black plastic cover on the left side of you valve cover.

 

[Wheemer]

yeah I took it off and it still seems tight and looks fine.

I was thinking the teeth stripped around the crank pully

 

[dirtbrown]

you sure it has to do with the belt? any codes?

 

[Wheemer]

I've pulled the mount and the top cover completely now and rubber dust was going everywhere. I'm pretty sure it's from the missing teeth I'm soon to find.

I don't have air tools so I can't go any further. No means to get the crack puller off.

Also as I was removing the mount the top bolt sheared off, so that should be fun on reassembly.

 

[6SPD_soul]

The crack puller? You mean the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer? The torque spec isn't that high on those, if you can get somebody to put the car in gear and have them firmly stand on the brakes, it should lock up the engine and allow you to break the pulley bolt loose.

Loosen the water pump pulley bolts before you remove the serpentine belt, they're kind of a bitch to get loose if you don't have the belt tension holding the pulley in place.

 

[spvensko]

Just curious but how many miles does your car have and when was your belt last changed?

 

[Wheemer]

Lol... yes I meant the crank pulley.

Cool, hadn't thought of that, been a while since I've changed a timing belt.

The car has just under 170000 kms.

I had thought the last owner changed it at 140,000 but I guess the info I was given was bull.

 

[Wheemer]

I've got the belt off, now I'm not sure how to do the rest. Since the crank already rotated off the proper alignment.

I've got cylinder one at tdc. Now I'm not sure about the position of the cams, will everything collide still?

Man I'm lost any advice would be great...


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.316805,-79.564715

 

[Wheemer]

Basically I need to know how to get the cams back in alignment without hitting the pistons

 

[1turbofocus]

Where most people mess up is they take the gear off the cam , If this isnt done it makes life easier

Also the biggest thing is putting the VCT gear back against the dead stop and not letting anything move during the tightning process

Top dead center on #1 Piston
Cams with cam plate in
Gear at dead stop and held there why everything is tightened and adjusted and your light should go away

Tom

 

[Wheemer]

I am thinking that I'm screwed without the tools mentioned.

Can I get away with using something else?

I haven't loosened the cam gears at all. But since the belt stripped I'm not sure if the cams are even close to the right position.

I'm also afraid to turn the cams since I don't want the valves hitting pistons.

 

[1turbofocus]

You can

For top dead center , use a screw driver in the #1 spk plug hole and get TDC if you havent done this before it can be tricky but does work

File for the cams there is a slot in the cams and the file will only go in one way the slots are cut off set

The VCT gear you have options , pipe wrench gently , oil filter wrench , etc

Tom

 

[Wheemer]

I thought I had it at tdc using the screwdriver trick, but then I read that the key on the crank should be facing up. I had it all on and tensioned when I realized the crank looked a tooth off.

So I am going to try again in the morning. It's too dark now.

I used a metal bar that's a bit too thin but hopefully is working.

I marked the old belt so I could ensure the new belt goes on right... Only problem is the movement possible on the intake cam is throwing me off.

Is the more detailed instruction available for the VCT gear? The pdf i'm following doesn't say much about it.

 

[1turbofocus]

You will know your at TDC with a long screw driver when you can move the crank slightly back and forth and the screw driver not move

The gear turns with the belt off just make sure its at dead stop all the way over and hold it there and dont let the gear , cams , crank move when tightening

Tom

 

[Wheemer]

Do I remove the blanking plug? That's we're I am getting confused when going through the steps in the pdf


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.316790,-79.564695

 

[Wheemer]

I'm thinking I can just leave the blanking plug alone. Do I need to turn the intake cam sprocket to the limit of the spring load as I'm putting the belt on?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.316745,-79.564714